Coil Spring Razor

Elsewhere we were talking about using automotive springs for razors. During that conversation the topic of coil springs came up, so I thought that I would share how I build a razor out of a coil spring. This is off of a 3/4 ton Dodge Ram, so it is pretty thick. (My buddy installed a lift kit in his truck and gave me the old springs) My biggest goal here is to show you how much steel it takes to make a razor. Now I could of gotten more width out of this piece if I had decided to forge more of the edge bevel, instead of grinding so much of it out. As it is, I simply forded it flat and to the correct profile. From there I ground it.

The pictures with the anvil are before it ever saw a grinder. It ended up being 0.35" after forging and over an inch wide. You can see that going from forged to rough ground, it lost a fair amount of thickness and is currently at 0.315". I still have more polishing to do as well. If people find this useful, I show how I do it on a leaf spring as well, so you can see how I thicken them up.

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That is very cool. My ambition (if I ever get enough time away from the business and don't die at 95 sitting at my workbench) is to get a forge and make some razors. My dad had an old forge shaped like a round BBQ grill on a.stand with the hand crank bellows blower underneath. He had the farrier's anvil with the square hole and the matching chisels, the hammers, ladels and tongs. He had molds for round musket balls and 58.6 caliber miniballs. I wish I still had all that stuff.

Thanks for this. I guess the same caveat applies to making knives from springs: if you forge with used springs, they *may* have hairline cracks that only show up after putting a bunch of work into it.

I've used both coil and leaf springs for making knives and they work great. I have absolutely no idea why I didn't think of using that material for a razor: thanks for the nudge.

Did you forge that in your coal forge? I would be interested in seeing a leaf spring project also. That would make for a good YouTube video...nudge, nudge.

Yes, that was in my coal forge. I’m starting to get the hang of the new forge now. Thursday I have two young kids (10 - 13 years old) coming over for a forging lesson, so I wanted to get some more of the bugs worked out first.

I have a piece of leaf spring picked out and marked for a razor, so I’ll at least photograph that for you.

I need to make some paying projects though to pay for grinding belts and coal.

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Originally Posted by Cangooner

Thanks for this. I guess the same caveat applies to making knives from springs: if you forge with used springs, they *may* have hairline cracks that only show up after putting a bunch of work into it.

I've used both coil and leaf springs for making knives and they work great. I have absolutely no idea why I didn't think of using that material for a razor: thanks for the nudge.

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You are very welcome. Cracks are a risk, but this particular piece was from a “mall crawler” truck (all show and only a few easy miles). The springs were like new. I have seen cracks in old leaf springs though.

Personally I think old automotive springs make better razors than they do knives.

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Originally Posted by DVW

...Thursday I have two young kids (10 - 13 years old) coming over for a forging lesson, so I wanted to get some more of the bugs worked out first....

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That's an awesome thing for a kid to be able to do. I would dig that myself. There is a place you can take forging lessons here in my neck of the woods. My nephew did it and they make a blacksmith knife out of the deal. The guy is a great big Scot who wears a leather kilt so it adds to the atmosphere. Funny I was apprenticed 40 years ago...:thinking:...longer actually...in my trade and I have apprenticed my son and a few others for the family business. It would be kind of interesting at my age to apprentice again in blacksmithing. Then I could be 2 different kinds of smiths.

Ready for heat treating. The tail is pretty much done, but the edge is still thick (to help combat warpage during quench). I was having troubles with the lighting and getting it to show the spine thickness and the jimping, so I made them black and white to help show the outline. This one will head off to Glen when it is done (assuming I don't botch it in the mean time) for evaluation and feedback.

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Those jimps look really precise. Did you do that by hand?

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Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

Those jimps look really precise. Did you do that by hand?

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Well yes it was by hand, but with a checkering file. I'm not sure if that is what you mean or not. My checkering file is 00, so that is about three file widths per side.

The forging went well with the kids today. One of our tasks was to harden the razor. The kids were very attentive about thermal cycling and hardening. After polishing I remeasured the spine and as you can see, it is thinner yet. So I would not have had enough steel if I had started with a piece that was only a little over 1/4" thick to begin with. Also, hardening in a coal forge requires more polishing than if you were using an electric or even gas furnace.

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Although I use that "coal forge finish" to my advantage sometimes as I did with my personal razor. In this case I simply wire brushed everything but the bevel (which I reground). This has two advantages.

1. It looks cool.
2. It leaves more material to the finished product.

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Here it is almost complete. I still need to finish honing it. When it is done, I will get some better pictures of it.

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I meant to post this the other day. One of the kids who came over for a lesson. They hope to come back tomorrow so they can finish their knives.

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I can now say that it is done. The wedge is made from clear G10 while the scales are orange G10. Next week it is off to Glenn for some constructive criticism.

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Is it still 9/8ths or there about? It is wide enough to look short. I have been finding lately that 7/8 or a little more is what I like. Anything more than 10/-12/8 seems excessive. Not that I have used on that wide but that seems like it would be so.

Last time I measured it, it was right about 8/8ths. I'll double check it though and get back to you. I'm finding that I like them to be a bit on the shorter side. Too long and it is just more of a chance to cut myself.

Blade width is 1.021 inches, so I'd call it 8/8. Heel to toe is about 2.8"

Yeah, too long and it becomes unwieldy

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Pics first hehehe

Okay I tested both razors Dan sent out

I found very little to Critique the grinds were VERY impressive, and I was amazed to find out he had made less than 10 SR's

The Orange G10 "Coil Spring" razor really had the feel on the face of a Vintage Razor, as most of you know I am not a huge fan of big heavy steel but this shaved and felt wonderful.. I had zero irritation even after a few hours.. I didn't think I could improve on the edge, and the feel was good so I felt no need to try and rehone it


The Kamisori style had the same exacting workmanship, I touched this one up on my Nakayama and I think I got a slightly smoother feel on the face, Dan is going to test shave it soon and see if he agrees..


Tons of fun to be had by all :D

Thanks Glenn, not only for the kind words but more importantly for the honest feedback on how I can improve. The orange coil spring razor is going to be donated to the group as part of the monthly give-aways (if it is accepted). Just my way of showing appreciation to you guys for taking the time and patience to guide a stubborn knifemaker through the world if razors.