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Thread: A final word on sterilization
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03-14-2009, 05:09 AM #1
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Thanked: 7A final word on sterilization
Hi all,
Wasn't sure where to put this but given that cleaning is mentioned for this sub-forum I figured I'd put it here and mods can move it if need be.
In trying to learn more I've read the numerous, conflicting, contradictory, and often downright wrong comments posted re: razor sterilization on this and several other boards. And while I agree that it's a matter of preference, I figured I'd post both the CDC & EPA's spectrum which correlates pathogens and level of disinfection necessary:
And also the link (already posted in another) of the comprehensive list of products meeting these requirements in each of the levels:
Antimicrobial Products that Address TB, HIV-1, and Hep B Virus
Now, how far you want to go is up to you but from assessing these, it would seem that if you just want to addres your most common baddies all you need to do is straight ethanol (70%; sold in stores as Ethyl Alcohol) or common household cleaners (Fantastik, 409, Clorox w/o Bleach, Clorox Disinfecting Wipes) that contain Alkyl Dimethyl Ethylbenzyl Ammonium Chloride/Alkyl Dimethyl Ethyl Ammonium Chloride (>.105%) or Hydrogen Peroxide (>0.5%; if you buy in stores, the USP designation means 3.0% so you're good).
Let me say this clearly - ALL of these three will act as INTERMEDIATE-level disinfectants meaning they address TB, Hep, HIV, and your other major concerns...the only ones not addressed by this are the Bacterial Spores in our diagram above. And if you are worried about these, switch to DE, take your razor to a dentist or surgeon and ask them to Autoclave it (or autoclave just your razor's blade, and re-scale it with NEW scales)
Now then, to break it down to a simple regimen that will assuage all the paranoid ones out there I've come up with 2 simple regimens which you can use based on what you have laying around:
Method 1:
1. Soak in Ethyl Alcohol (70%), 10 mins
2. Soak in Hydrogen Peroxide USP (3%), 10 mins
3. Rinse under extremely hot water.
Method 2:
1. Wipe with Clorox/CVS/(Whatever brand as long as it has the active Ammonium Chloride listed above and EPA registration numbers on the back) Disinfecting wipes, THOROUGHLY, and allow to air dry.
-If you have a spray, thoroughly spray down the razor, allow to sit for a few minutes (10?) and wipe clean.
2. Rinse under extremely hot water.
Please feel free to use this as a rough guideline and modify, I just wanted to put a definitive thread out there with facts to back up the point that a simple disinfection process with what you have around your medicine cabinet should do the trick for 99% of your common concerns! (And I apologize if people think this is adequately covered in other threads but the info was useful to me and I wanted to compile it in case anyone else could use it)
Disclaimer: If you use my methods and do end up getting something I accept no responsibility. The content presented herein is informational only and is not professional disinfection advice. It is merely a compilation of information from other sources and should be treated as such. If you have doubts, do your own research and develop your own routine. This guide is provided for convenience and I am not responsible for anything you do with the information, it is your responsibility to be absolutely certain that you have adequately disinfected YOUR razor to YOUR satisfaction.
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The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to Sansnom For This Useful Post:
antioch510 (03-17-2009), BeBerlin (03-14-2009), darrensandford (03-15-2009), David (03-16-2009), muddy250 (03-15-2009), Rajagra (03-14-2009), str8dave (02-11-2011)
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03-14-2009, 05:22 AM #2
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Thanked: 13249Since this is information meant for everyone, I am going to move it to the general forum.... Thanks for searching it out...
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03-14-2009, 07:57 AM #3
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Thanked: 1903Thank you very much! I have put the post into the safety category of the Wiki: Sterilization - Straight Razor Place Wiki.
It would be nice if someone ironed out a few rough edges WRT language in the Wiki. Thanks!
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03-14-2009, 08:34 AM #4
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Thanked: 235It looks like all the baddies I'm worried about can be killed with my usuall soapy water and a tooth brush followed by lots of alcahole.
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03-15-2009, 09:03 AM #5
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03-15-2009, 11:49 AM #6
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10-30-2009, 08:32 PM #7
Would Straight Kentucky Bourbon Work?
I would go out and get Ethyl, but as a whiskey enthusiast/collector I have more than one bottle of a dud lying around--not really worthy of drinking. So why not put 'em to good use?
My question is if it would be strong enough (they're at about 80 proof--40% ABV). Also would the whiskey damage the blade and such?Last edited by jinenjo; 10-31-2009 at 01:15 AM.
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10-31-2009, 03:57 PM #8
Being in the medical field, I can let you guys in on a secret...alcohol is a low-level disinfectant and even household bleach is only an intermediate-level disinfectant. You want something hospital grade like glutaraldehyde http://www.henryschein.com/us-en/Sea...glutaraldehyde
If you're using bleach to disinfect your blades, remember that disinfection does not eliminate microorganisms...it merely reduces the number. Even then, you would have to let your blade sit in the bleach for nearly a full day in order to do a complete cold sterile on it. items like the glutaraldehyde will do a cold sterile in about ten hours and doesn't have the bad reactions that bleach will have on a blade left overnight soaking. Remember that 'hospital grade' means that it has tuburculocidal action and needs to eliminate tuburculosis.
Prior to disinfection or sterilization, consider a run through the ultrasonic cleaner. Sterilants and disinfectants will only sterilize the metal they can reach. In the event that some bioburder (microscopic chunks of flesh, etc) remain on the blade, the sterilant will be innefective in that area and only sterilizes, it does not REMOVE the bioburden.
The glutaraldehyde is great stuff to use just about anywhere in the house, but your house will end up smelling like a dentist's office when you're done.
Here's a quick primer on the disinfection/sterilization http://vetmed.duhs.duke.edu/guidelin...sinfection.htm
If you're not interested in this whole procedure, try spraying your blade with Lysol...ever read the back and see everything it kills on contact...awesome stuff.Last edited by red96ta; 10-31-2009 at 04:20 PM.
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01-05-2011, 07:50 PM #9
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03-15-2009, 01:36 PM #10
I am sorry to disappoint you but there is nothing really final in science, remember that job security is involved ;-). I would like to thank you for trying to clarify this issue for all of us. One thing that I must point out in defense of previous posts/ers is that very frequently, because of the format of the forum, what is written can be easily taken out of context.
Since you mention both alcohol and quaternary ammonium compounds in your "recipes", I have included this link from the CDC website where the ability of several disinfectants to eliminate certain classes of pathogens is shown:
Appendix </P><P>Disinfectants and Their Properties
As you can see, none of these compounds is really effective against all pathogens or work in all situations (i.e. hard water). Also, the corrosive effects on metal of any of these or their wetting properties have been considered in this study. Note that CDC is not a regulatory agency and does not test, evaluate, or otherwise recommend specific brand-name products of chemical germicides. Even with these guidelines, Local or state environmental health officers might have recommendations for appropriate disinfectant selection and precautions for environmental effect, when using these in large scale.
I understand people's concerns regarding acquiring infections from blades. Because of it, I consider this as a delicate subject.
Al raz.