Thread: Honing with a barber hone and a dmt

Just a question regarding honing steps.
i have a vintage carborundum 152 barber hone and a dmt 600/1200 diamond plate that serve as my edge setting and honing stones.
while I have used them to develop a shaveable edge on my two starter razors after significant lapping I'm wondering as to why so many on here say the barber hone is just for touch ups between proper honings.
if you maintain good spine contact through the 1200 diamond and then the different grits of the barber hone, have you not achieved the appropriate grit steps?
Presuming the BH is around 4k on the coarse side and 8 on the finer side? Or is the barber hone the wrong grit range to finish the edge you set with the 1200?
I'm probably going to get a 4/8k norton combo next time I'm near lee valley but for now these seem to work.
just curious.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Just a question regarding honing steps.
if you maintain good spine contact through the 1200 diamond and then the different grits of the barber hone, have you not achieved the appropriate grit steps?
Presuming the BH is around 4k on the coarse side and 8 on the finer side? Or is the barber hone the wrong grit range to finish the edge you set with the 1200?

I'm wondering as to why so many on here say the barber hone is just for touch ups between proper honings.

.

I think you probably have the answer to your own questions there


Set the DMT aside, Don't use the coarse side of the BH and imagine the fine side a bit more fine


Now using that imaginary slightly higher hone and only that hone use that to hone an e bay razor

Thanks for the reply Glen.
So if I start on my dmt with tape on the spine should I leave it on until just before I strop?
On my first go at honing my first two e-blades I removed that tape before hitting the barber hone.
Figured I'd lose that 1degree bevel differential during the last three "higher" grits.

But after honing the ones I just picked up yesterday and leaving the tape on all the way through, then comparing the edges with a surface scope I am seeing, (I think) what looks like an un honed strip right along the bleeding edge of the first two I did. Almost like the lack of tape reduced the angle as expected, but despite a good 20+ laps and circles I never quite removed all that bit of steel right at the tip.

The results on my hones yesterday do support that with the DMT 600/1200 as a start, I am seemingly able to get a very good edge jumping from that diamond plate up to my barberhone152 and then to my strop.
At least to my novice thumb and chin.
Cheers.

Yeah, that tape bevel is funny,, I did some tests on it in the old days with the Norton 4/8 and I figured out that it was pretty much gone after about twenty 4k laps.. I never really tested it much after that as I just wanted an idea what it took to erase it

I have relapped my Carborundum 152 on my dmt and I have a question about the grits.
The darker grey side is the coarser grit yes?
It should be obvious but the feel has me doubting myself. And under the scope it looks like the darker side is more porous but damn if they don't feel awful close..
Thanks all

I chipped the crap out of a nice henckels on a DMT once... I'll never use one again... Barber's hone though, I use weekly. I wanna say my go to is a Pike two side.... One side is green (Fine) and the rougher side is black... works great for touch ups.. right up there with my coticle, but not as buttery... maybe more like my Thurigen..