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Well gents, after having given the binsui a far working out, I've decided it's a bit slow. I have a DMT green, a 5k shapton. Could I turtle off and get a Chosera 1k? Yes...yes I could.
But I'm still on my 'nature boy' streak. So......
What are some better choices for coarse NATURAL stones--preferably waterstones. By the way, if I dig around in the attic, I'm sure I can find my old Arkansas soft stone. Beyond that arky stone, what is else is there coarse natural stones?
that's a question I was asking myself a few days ago, when I asked here, the general consensus turned out to be that there is simply no bevelsetting natural stone that outpreforms a man made stone. That being said, what would be a good natural in this range?
I was considering the following: http://ardennes-coticule.be/en/produ...-pyrénées.html
BUT!, I don't have it yet so I can't realy say anything about it!
instead I bought my second coticule :o a Les Latneuses combi stone :)
Dalmore Yellow also Named "Mikado" Stone i think, Probably a Amakusa.....the Dalmore ist not that Easy to find....
I do either not know how these perform, as far as i read the Japanese Amakusa is quite usable...
Being you have a binsui you probably got it from the same source I got my Amakusa Red. IMHO, the Amakusa Red may work on knives (I have not tried a knife yet) but from my own experience, at least with the stone I have, they are not suitable for str8 razors period.
I bought mine as an experiment to see if I could go from bevel setting to finish using naturals only. The Amakusa only (very, very slowly) set the bevel half way, I had to finish setting, or refine the bevel with a Coticule. I realized going into the experiment the Amakusa would be slow cutting but after several hours the best I could get was setting the bevel half way........experiment failed.
Randy's got one that he considers to be quite useable...Quote:
Originally Posted by doorsch
as a base for holding a real hone.
I have an Ikarashi that with botan slurry or dmt slurry cuts very fast for a natural IMO. I would say its in tune with my chosera 2k.
In Sweden sandstone was used for razors in "the days".
Have tried it and it works fine, start off with sandstone then either Coticule, slate or Thuringen.
+1 on bill's comment. I have an ikarashi as well and would rate it as faster than a King 1K (what isn't?) but not even close to as fast as a Chosera 1K (what is?). As with all naturals, it's a bit of a crap shoot to find a good one as some have coarse inclusions. Good luck!Quote:
Originally Posted by bill3152
rs,
Tack
Tack: have you tried using naturals after the Chosera? If so, does that work well? Or do you find you spend a lot of time erasing what the chosera did?
Not answering for anybody but a mid range jnat with dmt slurry or botan slurry can wipe anything out you get from a chosera 1 k IMO. Yae botan is coarser than regular botan, that may be something to consider.
Oh I know it can do the erasure...but is it a long exercise? I got the binsui because it took too long to erase the DMT green with an Aoto. The Binsui works faster at that than the Aoto, but it's too slow for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by bill3152
So....I want some thing that will set a bevel faster than a binsui, but that won't take overly long to erase with the Aoto.
Not particularly. I set a gold dollar factory edge bevel in 30 minutes with nothing but an ikarashi and botan slurry. I typically go to an oohira kiita ( level 3 imo)after, then whatever I want to finish on. I was lucky on both counts as my stones never chip. (Ikarashi and oohira)Too aggressive and you may have that issue. My honest opinion and forgive me if I sound a little bold, is I would consider losing the dmt. I think I would consider the chosera before the dmt. Just a suggestion and I'm no expert, just a hobby honer.
Yep, agree with bill.. you can do the midrange work with slurries on most any hard base stone. I have used coticle slurry on a Lv 5+ jnat for the intermediate work, then gone through the usual nagura progression to the final finish. It seems like some hard steels that tend to chip on a synthetic will remain smooth with the all natual progression. I've fiddled with that idea on a Zulu Grey as well, with similar results though not quite as fine an edge. It's fun to do and can produce a terrific edge but I usually stick with the 1 & 5K Chosera (except for the chippers as mentioned), then on to the jnat just because it's a little faster and the results are more consistent.Quote:
Originally Posted by jgjgjg
rs,
Tack
Thanks Tack!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tack
Off topic:Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
Any body can confirm this as a Amakusa ? Got this today but bought it in not knowing about it.....
http://up.picr.de/17488871eq.jpg
The spots are similar to those on my white Amakusa. The orange streaks are odd but a lot of them have layered patterning so I'll say it is definitely maybe an Amakusa.
(I'm really only going on the spots!)
I checked several pictures on the web there are Amakusas with these Stripes named Tiger Stripes so they had a look a like....thanks Utopian
I kinda agree with Ron, it looks somewhat like an Amakusa, the streaks throw me off though. I have used one Amakusa as a bevel setter and had mixed luck, it liked some steels and did not like others.