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Not lame, but this might be a good time to try the Search box at the upper right. I entered Tape or No Tape and got this and about 10 other loooong threads: http://straightrazorpalace.com/hones...no-tape-2.html
I almost never tape. Exceptions being shallow razors, and my very old razors that are very shallow anyways.
I like to tape. It is however not essential. I believe Lynn Abrams doesn't tape unless he has to.
The reasons to tape far outweigh the reasons not to tape.
If your spine is right, then why mess that up by grinding it even slightly. Also for a beginner honer using too much pressure will wear the spine at a greater rate than the edge.
I don't believe your question was only about tape tho.
You were asking if there is a totally foolproof honing system that works without any tricks.
For that you need to look at the harder rocks and in that shapton glass stones will come out as the favorable leader.
Those stones are hard enough that they should never need constant flattening. They don't need to be slurried, They don't have any special care requirements.
Provided you don't drop them they will always function at 100% without any of the messing about. All other stones are softer, more prone to dish, or require some form of juju like slurry, Dili, uni ect.
The other real option is Arkansas hones, They take an absolute pounding and the single lapping will last a lifetime.
As for putting the electrical tape back in the box, I don't think it's an option. There will be at some point in time a razor that needs the tape for whatever reason. Be that fancy spine-work, Gold-wash, wedge grind, Or just because it's got an uneven spine.
Tape thread... Sooo boring.......
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:D
Ok...question has been answered. Thanks all.........
True but irrelevant in your lifetime :)
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...-theories.html
Quite so.
Also, as you hone the blade width decreases as the spine width decreases, so to an extent they cancel each other out (not that you would notice unless you breadknife or similar, then the ratio of blade width to spine width goes right out the window).
Also, another reason to use tape is to increase the angle to overcome a very slight warp in the spine.
Lastly, shapton glass stones are prone to high and low spots and do need lapping, they just stay true a bit longer - its a random kind of thing, where they were high one day they are low the next and level the next. I guess the matrix expands/contracts according to relative humidity, how the hone was wetted, where moisture was left on it, phase of the moon, etc. They can also be prone to cracking. I'm only basing my observation on having had had 11 in all, which includes three number 16ks, and the many writings on the subject on other forums, notably knife and foodie forums, so it is by no means conclusive. Bit more than an unresearched stab in the dark, though...
If they did not need flattening, shapton would not have made the outrageously expensive . dglp (or whatever they call it) diamond lapping plate - something else I rue ever having bought...
Regards,
Neil
My first year I taped every razor. After that, when I began to feel confident enough I took a NOS Solingen and measured the spine in a few places with a micrometer. I set the bevel and went through the paces to a finished shave ready razor. Measured again, and no appreciable hone wear. Of course that depends on the razor, the rocks, and the honer's ability.
After a year of so of honing without tape I went back to taping everything. Reason being, it is too much of a hassle to remember which were taped, and which were not, so taping all is an easy solution. We're talking a lot of razors here in the past 7 years.
As far as the width decreasing while the spine remains the same, that might be a consideration if a guy only had a couple of razors in rotation and honed them for 20 years. For the average SRP member I don't think that would ever be a consideration in the real world.
So history buffs, it appears that Benjamin Franklin did not hone with electrical tape?! Another rumor shot out of the saddle.