Thread: KAI Hira Toishi 3000stone???

They disappear long ago along with strop nicks and pasted strops hhaha ha.. But thhe rush and speed iminently lead to mistakes. So i keep a rithm ,just looking for better cuters- i think its HAD. Before i hone 1 blade in a week or 2 , now 4 5 every week and i whant to do it for the same time.
Now again KAI stone 3k any sugestions?

Stick to known stones. That one is not known, and it looks like the stones sold as uusharp. Specifically, I had a green one that was marked "#3000" or 3000 grit one way or another, and branded uusharp.

I threw it in the trash when I was done.

The picture of that stone is white, but it says that it's green corundum, and without specifying where it came from, I would assume it's coming from china. It's not worth the risk.

Go to a supplier who ships everywhere - but ships japanese origin stone, like toolsfromjapan, and find an interim stone from them.

(HAD is a perfectly acceptable reason to buy stones, by the way!!)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifKk__R5axU

Looks different than the uusharp stone, but who knows. The group that distributes them is from singapore, and I'm not aware of too many good stones from singapore. they could be decent, but they'd have to be almost free for me to risk it.

Plus, silicon carbide isn't a great abrasive for razors. It's sort of brash and leaves an edge that's a bit abused (like microchipped).

Originally Posted by DaveW

Honing and sex are not remotely similar.

It would probably be helpful for lynn to put up a string of doing five razors in a row that need a bevel set, and without talking. I'll bet the action in those videos would take about 15 minutes. Most of the video you linked is talking.

Any mistakes that you make that damage an edge on anything other than a very coarse stone will disappear soon. Some things (like microchipping) may happen by chance if you have a razor and stone that don't like each other, but errant strokes from you will disappear.

Bevel set time depends on the razor. Some are so messed up it can take several hours to set the bevel.

Can you post an example?

I've had razors that had cracks in them that I had to remove that took about an extra ten minutes because I had to grind them perpendicular on a medium carborundum stone.

If I had hours, I could literally hone away the blade of any razor - perhaps in 20 minutes.

One of the reasons I like to use a slurried oilstone to set the bevel is because it is not sensitive to direction, it doesn't require that firm of pressure, and the particles are large but without being damaging to an edge.

Hypothetically, the worst case scenario I could make up would have me honing 3 millimeters off of a razor and then setting the bevel on a soft arkansas (which is more coarse than the stone I showed in another thread here about oilstones or jaspers or something).

Originally Posted by DaveW

Can you post an example?

I've had razors that had cracks in them that I had to remove that took about an extra ten minutes because I had to grind them perpendicular on a medium carborundum stone.

If I had hours, I could literally hone away the blade of any razor - perhaps in 20 minutes.

One of the reasons I like to use a slurried oilstone to set the bevel is because it is not sensitive to direction, it doesn't require that firm of pressure, and the particles are large but without being damaging to an edge.

Hypothetically, the worst case scenario I could make up would have me honing 3 millimeters off of a razor and then setting the bevel on a soft arkansas (which is more coarse than the stone I showed in another thread here about oilstones or jaspers or something).

Sheffield wedges are notorious for taking long time to set bevels, that is because one also has to fix the issues they come with before the bevel an actually be set. If all was perfect bevels will set pretty quick as you say.

Bevel set time depends on the razor. Some are so messed up it can take several hours to set the bevel.

Somethime the one side stays narower ,and nott because off th grind.Need to makee extra strokes only this side and after in finer grits runs away little bit again.
Smileys aways need extra work on both ends .
Somehow soome small area refuse to get an edge just and only there .Whiitthhowwt obvious reeason in geometry.
30 % need special atention and tests .Somehow some steells didnt like some naturaal stones and surpriiingly you loose the edge that you honeand need rehoniing on the previous stone.
In the beggining ii think it is a piece of cake , now im not so sure.

Originally Posted by mainaman

Sheffield wedges are notorious for taking long time to set bevels, that is because one also has to fix the issues they come with before the bevel an actually be set. If all was perfect bevels will set pretty quick as you say.

I think we're probably not equipped to deal with sheffield wedges correctly. They need to be done by a cutler with a grinder.

Originally Posted by RusenBG

Somethime the one side stays narower ,and nott because off th grind.Need to makee extra strokes only this side and after in finer grits runs away little bit again.
Smileys aways need extra work on both ends .
Somehow soome small area refuse to get an edge just and only there .Whiitthhowwt obvious reeason in geometry.
30 % need special atention and tests .Somehow some steells didnt like some naturaal stones and surpriiingly you loose the edge that you honeand need rehoniing on the previous stone.
In the beggining ii think it is a piece of cake , now im not so sure.

It depends, if you get 5 warped razors in a row, it tends to make you think a little less of the world. Like you say, it's difficult to get them to have an even bevel (as well as many others). I set the bevels on razors like that with two hands, and then pretty much hone that way. I think a lot of people see videos of folks making even strokes, and they stroke a razor until the bevel is way out of whack instead of stopping and doing it sectionally first to get things geometrically even and then going from there.

This is the one place that I think learning to sharpen knives and tools first is helpful for, to set up the initial geometry and not be too timid around it as long as one doesn't use pressure enough to flex a razor.

The rest of honing, tool and knife sharpening isn't particularly helpful.

Strangely enough, the only razor I can recall recently leaving an uneven bevel on was one where I set up a brand new razor in about 3 or four minutes, figuring that I would come back and fix it. I sold it on the classifieds, it shaved so well that I didn't have the heart to reset the bevel to something cosmetically more pleasing. And like you say, I rushed to get it shaving, but I wasn't very proud of what it looked like, and I felt a bit guilty for the buyer despite it taking one of the better edges off of natural stones that I've had.