Help me with my Norton

Im a newbie honer but know enough..
i lapped my hone but when i use it this happens.. please helpAttachment 196850

Some more info would help. Are you taping the spine? What type of razor are you trying to hone?

Not taping the spine. im learning on my whipped dog vintage. My first hone on the stone but i lapped with sandpaper i taped to a wood block. But on the 4k side it even acted like it was maybe uneven. Like the 2cm from the edge had this type of marking all the way down and even though the water placement followed my razor and stroke, i would get this type of "scuff" in certain spots only.

Edit: the only reason i ask is because referencing to lynn abrams video on his norton he just gets a nice slurry with no scuffing stuck to the stone so why is mine?

aBam915,

Draw a grid on your Norton with soft pencil, and soak for at least 20 minutes in cold water. Lap with your silicon carbide paper until grid has been removed - do figure of eight movements, reversing the stone every 20 passes. Finish with 320 or 400 grit carbide paper.

Then try a test hone and see what you get.

Have fun :)

Best regards

Russ

Ok, a wooden block is not an ideal surface to lap your hone on. You need something perfectly flat, like a piece of float glass. If you are going to use sandpaper, you need to use a good quality product from Norton or 3m. Draw a grid on your hone with a pencil, that helps you see where you are hitting and missing, and how true it is.

Ya i guess ill get something MEANT fpr lapping tomorrow to make sure thats not the issue. But one thing i dont with the pencil grid technique is, what if my stone isnt flat then draw the grid... if i remove all the marks all that means in my head is i removed an even layer but i dont know that my stone itself is true
just a thought

Edit: thanks for the input, i appreciate it.

You are not trying to " remove" the grid. Draw the grid run your lapping plate/block on the Norton. After 10 strokes if you look at the grid you will be able to see which high spots in the stone you are hitting.

You want to run 8s not in one spot at a time but as much or all of the stone at a time. Assuming you have chosen a flat plate, when the grid
is gone your stone is flat

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JTmke

You are not trying to " remove" the grid. Draw the grid run your lapping plate/block on the Norton. After 10 strokes if you look at the grid you will be able to see which high spots in the stone you are hitting.

You want to run 8s not in one spot at a time but as much or all of the stone at a time. Assuming you have chosen a flat plate, when the grid
is gone your stone is flat

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Ya thats probably my issue. Like i said i need to get something more meant for lapping. But side-note, could it be thar i havent taken enough initally off? I just took enough off to where it didnt feel too grainy.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JTmke

You are not trying to " remove" the grid. Draw the grid run your lapping plate/block on the Norton. After 10 strokes if you look at the grid you will be able to see which high spots in the stone you are hitting.

You want to run 8s not in one spot at a time but as much or all of the stone at a time. Assuming you have chosen a flat plate, when the grid
is gone your stone is flat

---

I would say that you are trying to remove the grid. By drawing a grid you will identify the low lying points on your hone - the only way to get down to these is by removing all the surrounding material. When you have done this your hone should be flat.

By the way, if you have some remaining pencil marks at the ends of you stone - don't worry as it's quite common for synthetic stones to taper slightly at the very ends.

Not a great big deal. Clean off the grid once it's loaded (you can rub the stone against any other stone you have and just rinse the surface of the finer stone after you do that) and continue to hone until you are done. Use x strokes (or circles) so that the whole edge of the razor is done evenly.