just wondering if I can use a DMT 220 to lap my stones? I currently have naniwa 1000, a Norton 4000/8000 and a Naniwa 12000.... will the DMT lap these well.... should I do anything to the DMT before using it?
Printable View
just wondering if I can use a DMT 220 to lap my stones? I currently have naniwa 1000, a Norton 4000/8000 and a Naniwa 12000.... will the DMT lap these well.... should I do anything to the DMT before using it?
Is it an 8" plate ? For best results a plate as long, or longer than the hone is easier to get consistent results. That said, I've used a 325 and a 120 DMT plate. The 120 (XX) takes the hones down quick but leaves a surface that needs the 325 to smooth out some. At least I think it does. To the extent that I rarely use it.
I'm thinking you could use the 220 to get flat, and if the surface was too rough, try facing the 8k up against the 12k. I haven't used one hone to flatten/smooth out another, but I've read of quite a few guys who have done it with success.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecormier
The 220 will flatten it out alright. I'll agree with Jimmy on the lapping plate being longer then the hone, I learned that the hard way... DMT 4C (tiny little thing) and i'll also agree that there is no doubt it leaves a rougher surface than the 325. That being said I use the 120 Dia-Flat exclusively, I remedy the roughness it leaves if using pressure by finishing my lapping with "weight of the hone" strokes. I like the feedback it leaves but that's just me. You'd have to test that out yourself but with the DMT DIA-FLAT being over $200 it's an expensive oopsie if you don't end up liking the feel of it. Get what your budget can afford.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
Yes the 220 will keep your water stones flat...
P.S. Jimmy I've never thought of using another water stone to smooth out another water stone. Wouldn't that contaminate the grits?
I'm looking at an 8"x3" and I knew it would flatten fast, I'm just concerned about the remaining surface (as has been mentioned) and it's about $100
I think you'll be alright like I said I use the 120. Once the 220 gets broken in it will be a lot smoother
That is what I use to lap my stones... DMT 220.
It sticks a lot, even under running water, which I find annoying. But other then that, it seems to do a great job with making the stones flat.
I have wondered that myself. As I noted above, I've never done it myself, but I've read a lot of guys say they have. Mostly natural stones to natural stones IIRC. I'm guessing someone who has experience firsthand will be along and clear up any misunderstanding on my part.Quote:
Originally Posted by S0LITARYS0LDIER
BTW, good idea using the 'weight of the hone' on finishing with the 120. I'll have to dig mine out and give that a try, just for the heck of it. I know one really good honer who likes a rough surface on his flattened hone. He was bummed when Norton smoothed their lapping plates and was looking all over for old stock.
If I only had one I would go 325. The D8C. Whichever you get, wet it, take a couple of drops of dish soap on the surface. Take a plane blade, a chisel, or if you don't have those, I've used a 12" Stanley Hurwood screwdriver shank, and rub the diamond down with that. Make sure to get the edges to knock down any upstanding divots that might leave scratches. BTW, the 325 is good for kitchen knives too.Quote:
Originally Posted by ecormier
Alright, I'm convinced, just pulled the trigger, now if I only knew what this mysterious prize could be....
https://www.facebook.com/theclassice...68267619885869
Please report back and let me know how it works out, and thanks for the tip about knocking down the peaks with a chisel!Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
I have Naniwa Supers 5, 8, and 12k.
I purchased them through Shapeningsplies.com.
Their recommend lapping plate is the DMT Dia-flat 95
http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DM...e-P451C24.aspx