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08-14-2016, 09:02 PM #1
Washita or Soft Arkansas for bevel setting
Don't read much on here about using natural novaculites like Washita and Soft Arkansas for setting bevels.
I don't do a lot of restores but I've had good luck with them following or instead of a DMT1200 EF. Almost never see any chipping like I sometimes do with synthetics.
Just curious if/why these two workhorses have been put out to pasture by the pros.
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08-15-2016, 02:27 AM #2
Most Arks are known as finishers these days. Bevel setting on a Chosera 1K is cake walk easy repeatable , reliable , solid , consistent.... Its like when Toyota started making a better car than the big 3. A properly set bevel never needs to be set again, similar to a foundation. Trans and Black Ark are great finishers in their own category.
Your only as good as your last hone job.
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08-15-2016, 03:18 AM #3
Indeed. The higher grit range Arks are quite capable finishers. I think my Washitas and Soft Arks are in the 600-1000 grit range and I use them for the rough work on recent adoptions to get them in shape for a finishing progression.
I like the Arks for full hollows or older steels. The synthetics can be rough on them.
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08-15-2016, 02:11 PM #4
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Thanked: 3215Yup, I agree. I have always been an Ark fan and have a 10X3 Washita that cuts like a demon. It is a great bevel setter.
I think a lot of guys pass on them because, they do vary in cutting ability some and it can be hit and miss building a progression.
I have been using Smith’s Honing solution with water, but recently “Steel” told me he’s been using Ballistol with good results. He said to cut it, 50/50 or 4/1 with water.
Think I’ll pull out the Washita and give the Ballistol a try.Last edited by Euclid440; 08-15-2016 at 02:20 PM.
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08-15-2016, 02:30 PM #5
I have been using a washita to set bevels for some time now and have had no problem at all. I will dress the stone making sure it is flat, clean, and fresh before use and it cuts amazingly. There are many others here "in the shadows" that also use it.
Ballistol oil is non toxic AND water soluble. The water soluble part makes it better, for me, than plain mineral oil. It works much better than glycerin in my experience at keeping my stones totally free from swarf build up. You can use it full strength or diluted if you get the liquid and not the spray.What a curse be a dull razor; what a prideful comfort a sharp one
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08-15-2016, 03:11 PM #6
Thanks. I have Ballistol. May give that a try. It's worked well for everything else that I've tried it on. Replaced Hoppes #9 as my cologne.
Last edited by kelbro; 08-15-2016 at 04:23 PM.
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08-14-2020, 12:18 PM #7
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08-16-2016, 09:13 PM #8
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08-19-2016, 03:30 PM #9
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- Feb 2016
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- Denmark
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Thanked: 8I have a No1 which I've used after the 1k with good results. Had to take a leap of faith the first time because it sounded like I was dragging s.th. along a gravel road...
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08-24-2020, 11:14 PM #10
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
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- Diamond Bar, CA
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Thanked: 3215“Just curious if/why these two workhorses have been put out to pasture by the pros.”
When you hone other folk’s razors, all kinds, in all conditions come through the door. You must set a bevel quickly and efficiently, remove all the defects and at times, usually, do some edge repair. I can count the ones, that just needed a touch-up. Even they get a full bevel set. My personal razors are another story.
Low grit aggressive synthetic or Diamonds are the most efficient, but you must know how deal with the issues these stones can cause, so you use just enough stone to do the job, then hone it on a progression.
And if you want, use an Ark as a finisher. Honing as a business is way different than honing for sport.
You could not make a living running a cabinet or furniture shop with woodworking hand tools. But it is relaxing and fun as a hobby.
A well-known mostly hand too furniture maker/instructor, who descended from a long line of European furniture makers once said, “If my grandfather could have got his hands on an electric router, he sure as hell would have used it.”