The Vender I brought my from says dont soak them :confused:
I know some have soaked them with no ill effects, but I haven't seen the need to.
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So will they absorb water to the point of being pliable?...
I think I've said it recently on another thread. These stones are not stable unfortunately. Pretty much the same goes for Shapton Pro. They change shape from one session to another and if you lap them after the last one, you get a different surface after some time of just lying around. The Glass series seemed so much less fussy about almost anything.
I just splash and go with mine and never would I say they became anywhere near pliable. I also hardly ever lap them anymore either and just use a slightly rolling X stroke where the edge contact moves along edge a I go. I found very few blades are dead flat and straght anyway to bother with lapping.
Bob
Yeah I gave up listening to the Vendors, to be honest
I sent a copy of the Instructions to one of my Japanese Kempo friends to interpret since he had no dog in the fight
He told me back in 2010 when all this BS started "Glen it says to soak them for a short time before use"
I just don't care any longer, I just hate to see people chase half the hone down the drain as they continually try and lap them flat I think it was Utopian / Ron that has a thread with pics about the swelling but I am not sure it is still even on here
I have the Naniwa "Super Stones" on plastic bases in 5/8/12k to follow my Chosera 1k. They work amazingly well, but there is definitely some strange warpage that seems to occur depending on how much moisture is in the stone. I have stopped trying to keep them perfect and just spray and go, with excellent, repeatable results.
I do wonder, though, if the rest of the Chosera (now professional?) hones are as good as the 1k in performance and ability to stay flat. If so, those might be a better investment.
Thanks.for all the info fella"s... My results have been good with the 12000 so ill just keep it the way ive been doing it.. Thanks, SMW
FWIW, mine came installed on those stupid plastic bases. What hit me very recently is that my drying routine probably did not help matters any. When finished, I vigorously shook the hone to get any water out from under the base then wiped off the top before letting the hone sit out for 1-2 days to dry out.
Since my hones slightly bow up at each end, I realized that I was allowing the working side to dry out much too quickly compared to the glued one. I was wiping down the top surface without being able to do the same to the bottom side. Now I no longer wipe down the exposed side and just let it dry out after shaking off the excess water. They still work just fine with only a slight bother to the OCD portion of my brain.
:)