Please tell me if my plan is good

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07-12-2009, 04:09 PM
ben.mid

The plan seems sound, though i've no experience with those stones. Going by the grit rating they should be very useful provided you don't have to remove chips or do any serious bevel setting.
As i'm sure you know, honing is as much to do with the abilities of the honer, as it is the stone. If your two blades have only had a bit of bad stropping they really should be able to be corrected with the coticule, swaty & pastes. If you can't get them shave ready with what you've already got, don't be frustrated if you still can't with new hones. Study & practise & it'll come though!
07-12-2009, 04:09 PM
JimmyHAD

Sounds good to me. The only thing I might add would be an 8x3 DMTE 1200 continuous diamond plate. Speeds up bevel setting considerably and can be used for knives and other cutting tools.
07-12-2009, 07:46 PM
Gunner777

I'm using the Naniwa stone and like them a lot. The only one I might add is a 1000 for bevel setting otherwise you have a solid plan.
The best of luck it's a fun journey!
07-12-2009, 07:54 PM
aroliver59

If you decide to get the stones,you will still need to lap them even when new,and again after some use,so maybe the DMT-8C should be added.
07-12-2009, 08:02 PM
TexasBob

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gunner777

... The only one I might add is a [Naniwa] 1000 for bevel setting ...

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

... The only thing I might add would be an 8x3 DMTE 1200 continuous diamond plate. Speeds up bevel setting ...

Any reasons to choose one over the other? The Naniwa 1000 would save a few bucks and would be part of a set. Can the DMT 1200 be used to improve upon a lapping done with the DMT8C 325?
07-12-2009, 08:13 PM
holli4pirating

I would also suggest adding something in in the 1K region. I use a King 1K; it was cheap and I'm happy with the job it does.

On the high end, you will have to expeirment with which hone gives which blade the best finish; I have shaved off a 12K, a Swaty, and a coticule. In general, I found that my Swaty (it was one with three lines of text) and 12K (I have a C12K) left sharper edges that my coticule. But your 12K is different from mine, your Swaty may be, and coticules have variations since they are naturals. In short, you'll have to play with razors off all three stones.

With regards to "improving" on lapping; I use my Swaty or C12K to remove any lapping scratches left by my DMTC. The Swaty is hard, a slow cutter, and non-porus, so it works well for that application. I would not recommend using your coticule for this (waste of good coticule, and it may not work depending on the hardness of your coticule), and I couldn't say with regards to your 12K since, again, mine is different.
07-12-2009, 08:20 PM
hi_bud_gl

I agree you will need 1k. i can say between 1k naniwa and dmt which one to choose. I choose naniwa. i never used king 1k can't say anything about it.
Let me add alittle more why 1 k naniwa is better.
dmt you will need brake in at first then it doesn' last longer. if you use it regularly i have it will not last longer then 8 months. naniwa will last a lot longer.
hope this helps.
07-12-2009, 08:44 PM
TexasBob

From what I am reading here and from another look at the WiKi I think the following needs a little update:

Quote:

5000: set a bevel on a non-shave ready razor
8000: sharpen the razor
12000: polish it smooth

That should probably be

1000: set a bevel on a non-shave ready razor
5000: sharpen the razor
8000: polish it smooth
12000: finish

Maybe the 0.5 and 0.25 paste to refine the above?
07-12-2009, 08:46 PM
Leighton

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasBob

Any reasons to choose one over the other? The Naniwa 1000 would save a few bucks and would be part of a set. Can the DMT 1200 be used to improve upon a lapping done with the DMT8C 325?

I'd get the Naniwa 1k. I either don't use the DMT or finish with the Nani.

However, if you aren't setting any bevels and your razors don't have a lot of damage, to save money, I would just get the 8k and 12k. Or just the 12k. But thats my frugal side talking.

As for using the dmt 1200 to lap stones with....DON'T DO IT!!!!!!! A black slurry will start to form and thats not from the water stone....
07-12-2009, 09:06 PM
hi_bud_gl

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasBob

From what I am reading here and from another look at the WiKi I think the following needs a little update:
That should probably be

1000: set a bevel on a non-shave ready razor
5000: sharpen the razor
8000: polish it smooth
12000: finish

Maybe the 0.5 and 0.25 paste to refine the above?

excellent add diamond paste+chro2
you done. and have fun
07-12-2009, 09:47 PM
Sticky

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasBob

...
1000: set a bevel on a non-shave ready razor
5000: sharpen the razor
8000: polish it smooth
12000: finish

Maybe the 0.5 and 0.25 paste to refine the above?

Nice grit-range. Should cover all your normal razor sharpening needs.
07-12-2009, 09:59 PM
Utopian

The Naniwa 1k is an excellent bevel setter. Fortunately, the lower grits hones cost less.;)
07-12-2009, 10:48 PM
zib

+1n with Utopian, setting a bevel with a 5k is rough, even with a 1k at times. 220 is better.
I had a Satinedge that I sent to Max. I could not get the thing to take a bevel. I guess I gave up to quick. It took him 1/2 hour on a 220k. So, you never know what your gonna run into...Thanks Max....
07-14-2009, 04:54 PM
fccexpert

Sounds like a plan, as long as the razor is in fairly good shape. This is more or less how I deal with newly aquired razors as well except I use a Norton 4/8K and usually dispense with the finer polishing stone and go straight to my strop. If the razor is is such bad condition that I would need a coarser stone to "set" the bevel, I don't want to be bothered with it.
07-14-2009, 06:53 PM
TexasBob

Quote:

Originally Posted by fccexpert

Sounds like a plan, as long as the razor is in fairly good shape. This is more or less how I deal with newly aquired razors as well except I use a Norton 4/8K and usually dispense with the finer polishing stone and go straight to my strop. If the razor is is such bad condition that I would need a coarser stone to "set" the bevel, I don't want to be bothered with it.

Well, I just dropped one of my razors onto a tile floor so I may need that 1K after all!
07-14-2009, 07:14 PM
fccexpert

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasBob

Well, I just dropped one of my razors onto a tile floor so I may need that 1K after all!

If you want to keep it. I usually just throw them out (I have dropped two so far).
07-16-2009, 09:02 PM
TexasBob

UPDATE and a QUESTION

Well the Naniwas arrived today.

Just to verify what I think I need to do now: Lap these things with my DMT8C 325. I would do this by drawing a pencil line grid and then lightly smoothing each with the DMT until the pencil lines are gone. I would keep things pretty wet as I go.

I just want to be sure before I do something stupid!

These are the hones I have: 1000, 5000, 8000, 12000
07-16-2009, 09:25 PM
northpaw

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasBob

Well the Naniwas arrived today.

Just to verify what I think I need to do now: Lap these things with my DMT8C 325. I would do this by drawing a pencil line grid and then lightly smoothing each with the DMT until the pencil lines are gone. I would keep things pretty wet as I go.

I just want to be sure before I do something stupid!

These are the hones I have: 1000, 5000, 8000, 12000

After the grid disappears, draw another and see if it wears away evenly. The reason for this is that when you're lapping, the water and slurry will also cause the pencil to wear, too, even if the surface isn't completely flat yet. Don't know how Naniwas behave in that regard, but it's the only way I know of to be sure - especially on a new stone.

Good luck! Now you'll never need to buy another hone. ;)
07-16-2009, 09:32 PM
gssixgun

Yes you have the right plan

Water water water when lapping,, The Naniwa's come with a stupid label on the :cen stone surface :rant: Which is going to take a wee bit of work to get rid of that residue... I lapped mine untill I could no longer tell where that :cen stupid label had been then worried about the grid :)
07-16-2009, 09:35 PM
Bill S

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasBob

Well the Naniwas arrived today.

Just to verify what I think I need to do now: Lap these things with my DMT8C 325. I would do this by drawing a pencil line grid and then lightly smoothing each with the DMT until the pencil lines are gone. I would keep things pretty wet as I go.

I just want to be sure before I do something stupid!

These are the hones I have: 1000, 5000, 8000, 12000

Make sure you don't have a sharp corner on the long edges of the stones. Just relieve them a little with a slight radius after lapping so you don't drag your edge on the corner and chip it.
07-16-2009, 09:36 PM
gssixgun

Quote:

Originally Posted by fccexpert

Sounds like a plan, as long as the razor is in fairly good shape. This is more or less how I deal with newly aquired razors as well except I use a Norton 4/8K and usually dispense with the finer polishing stone and go straight to my strop. If the razor is is such bad condition that I would need a coarser stone to "set" the bevel, I don't want to be bothered with it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fccexpert

If you want to keep it. I usually just throw them out (I have dropped two so far).

Can you send the razors that you deem no good to me??? I will restore / have them restored and give them away to people that could use them..... There are a few newer restorers on the forum that would love a shot at doing them and then they could go in the giveaways....:)
07-16-2009, 09:48 PM
Utopian

This may or may not be obvious, but I'll say it anyway...

When lapping a series of hones, be sure to lap from finest to coarsest hone so that any residual grit transfer won't matter.
07-17-2009, 11:49 AM
Hillie

Since a few weeks I have a Naniwa superstone 3K/8K combo (like a Norton 4/8). I tried setting a bevel with the 3K and it was horrendously slow, so yes, get a coarser grit. I actually ordered a King 220/1K combo stone for that, with the idea that an ugly scratch pattern won't matter too much, since I've got the Naniwa combo stone and also a C12K to finalize it.

I actually lap with sandpaper on a flat surface and it seems working fine for me (I'm in the process of flattening the rough back of the C12K, which is getting close to being usable now :)). Any hard cons against using the sandpaper method?
07-17-2009, 01:54 PM
TexasBob

Quote:

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Yes you have the right plan

Water water water when lapping,, The Naniwa's come with a stupid label on the :cen stone surface :rant: Which is going to take a wee bit of work to get rid of that residue... I lapped mine untill I could no longer tell where that :cen stupid label had been then worried about the grid :)

So far I have only lapped one -- the 12K, and am not done with that one yet. Following your advice I started by just getting rid of the residue from removing that :rant:sticker! I left it to dry completely before drawing penci lines and haven't got back to that yet. At least I found a use for that new smiley. Here's what I'd like to do to those stickers:

:overkill:
It wasn't even easy to peel off the sticker! Fingernails barely did the job of peeling up enough of a corner to get a good grip on it and boy is that glue strong!

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