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Thread: DMT Duosharp as lapping plate
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01-08-2010, 05:40 PM #1
DMT Duosharp as lapping plate
So fellas I haven't really seen a thread to this effect but I know I and a few others have had questions about this. Yesterday I got my 10 inch duosharp x/c- the one with the holes. I want to start off by saying that I don't own any other DMT, just the one I am going to discuss. I have seen/used/felt a DMT8C though.
Today I took a couple rocks that have potential for being good hones and lapped them. As in heavy duty grindin'. I figured this would test its mettle and also break it in on something other than my expensive hones and razors.
Here are my thoughts:
First off I wanna say WOW to the 10x4 in size. WOOOOOOOW.
It is a significant improvement and if you can afford the upgrade, do so. (diasharp/continuous also comes in the big size now) I am not sure about the diasharp model which is entirely metal, but the duosharp is not too heavy in the big size (plastic core). Besides, I found the best use was as a "washboard"- I propped it on one end, held the other and "scrubbed" the rocks on it under a faucet.
Next, I really liked the benefit of two grits. While I only have the x/c model (220/325) not the xx (120), even the 220 really helps for heavily dished rocks, and was still fast on everything but barber hones (which I don't even think a 30 grit dmt would be good enough for) and even then the 220 was a big help (vs the 325).
With regard to cutting speed (the argument that the holes mean less usable cutting surface) I cannot really comment as I don't own a comparable continuous plate to compare the same hone on the different plates but I will say it is very fast- definitely fast enough.
Next, the HOLES! It is hard to describe the feeling. Swarf is not an issue at all, and I can only attribute this to the holes. Previously I have lapped on wet/dry and films stuck to a flat surface, and it seems to clog up or cause the hone to "hydroplane" and thus not lap well. No problem here. When the hone gets "there" it does still stick to the plate (I imagine the little holes are like little suction cups lol), but once again it doesn't have that feeling of hydroplaning on a thin film of water- the water and swarf get caught by the holes ensuring what feels like great stone to plate contact.
Flatness- In my limited test environment this hone is certainly good enough. Dunno if it is perfectly flat but vs. a drafting straight edge, a known flat hone, and a marble tile it is flat.
In summary, I find there is absolutely no problem using these as lapping plates, ESPECIALLY in the big model. Hope this helps.
PS: Just wanna add that I am not saying they are better than continuous (diasharps) but I am just giving them a thumbs up as lappers.Last edited by khaos; 01-08-2010 at 05:45 PM.
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01-08-2010, 06:50 PM #2
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Thanked: 199I think for lapping, they might be a good choice. I have the small ones for honing knives and they are excellent.
I know the continuous ones are flat to a pretty nice degree, but not sure how flat the others are. I'm sure it would be flat enough for our purposes though.
Personally, I think I'll stick to the continuous ones. No sense in having 2 hones of the same grit right now...saves on money
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01-08-2010, 07:01 PM #3
Not saying they're better, just giving it sort of a review, and putting info/answers out there that I couldn't easily find a week ago when I looked.
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01-08-2010, 07:05 PM #4
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Thanked: 199I understand, wasn't saying one way or another, just my thoughts jumped out to my fingers haha
I'd love to know how well it laps compared to the continuous ones. I think it would be better for removing the slurry with the holes in the metal plate like that.
Maybe someone will let you borrow one to compare the 2
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01-08-2010, 08:16 PM #5
Interesting!
I use the continuous D8C and I have been very satisfied. I have wondered, though, how well the DMT's are with the swarf holes. Does it leave scratch marks? Does it leave the surface nice and smooth?
Thanks,
Steve
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01-08-2010, 08:18 PM #6
From what I can see the scratch marks are a little finer than the grit equivalent in sandpaper- so I guess yes it leaves scratch marks but off the 325/coarse they are not bad. The Naniwas didn't need any more and because I am obsessive I took my jnat all the way up to 1000 but it would've been fine after the 325.
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01-12-2010, 03:00 AM #7
+100! I have the same model, and it's the best lapping plate I've ever used. The size, thickness, holes, and dual grits all add up. After the 220 and 325, I finish with 600, 1000, and 2000 grit wet/dry automotive sandpaper. I just lay the sandpaper over the plate as backing. My stones are flat and slick like glass.
That 220 can chew through any stone like a chainsaw through pulpwood when using pressure. But with light circular strokes, it's surprisingly gentle, and avoids scratching. I never touch a razor to either side, I much prefer the continuous grit DMTs for that. But it's KILLER as a lapping plate.
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08-02-2011, 07:20 PM #8
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Thanked: 13249Reviving an old thread here, instead of starting a new one, has anyone else tried this ????
Amazon.com: DMT W250CXNB 10-Inch DuoSharp Bench Stone Coarse / Extra-Coarse No Base: Home Improvement
Last edited by gssixgun; 08-02-2011 at 07:23 PM.
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08-02-2011, 07:35 PM #9
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08-03-2011, 01:05 AM #10
I have been using one for lapping plate for at least a year. Wicked fast in comparison to continuous plates. Very generous size makes it a pleasure and light weight makes it nice under running water.
Matt. I noticed stripes when using but they are pretty superficial. Anyway, I always follow up lapping by rubbings stones together to get surface like I am use to. Takes just a few seconds.
BTW Glenn,
When I got mine I paid about 149 US dollars and would not part with it, holds up very well. 99 bucks is a great deal, you will love it.Last edited by Kingfish; 08-03-2011 at 01:11 AM.
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