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I'd quite like to use a polishing hone with oil rather than water, as oil will lubricate better and slow the cutting action, but help put a keener edge on the blade.
Is that safe with one of these pre-lapped chinese 12k's?
New Chinese Water Hone / Waterstone for Straight Razor - eBay (item 130347554852 end time Feb-24-10 06:17:19 PST)
Thinking of using clear mineral oil.
Should be safe, but why would you want to slow the C12k? If it was any slower, it would put metal back onto your razor.
Also, if you are in the US, you can get them at woodcraft.com or your local woodcraft. It should be much faster. Small is $20, large is $35. No rubbing stones, though...
Good point. Oil gives a clearer polish, I've read; the best justification I can give is exactly that: it slows the cutting action. The lubrication would prevent the friction surface from getting as much grab; so whereas at some points it might grab and tear X amount of metal out, it would instead make the same cut but finer (less deep, less wide, less metal removal) since it can't get the same grip to remove metal.Quote:
Originally Posted by holli4pirating
I would love to have a 15k and maybe 18k or 20k stone as well, but that may be excessive. The point of these would be to put a final polish edge on the razor; of course, eventually the edge is too fine and won't hold. If the stone cuts slow enough, however, it should manage to polish the bevel and not really sharpen the blade much-- which is what I want, a very sharp and very polished blade.
My experience does not yet dictate how exactly to achieve that; what it does dictate is that unpolished blades like Merkur or Feather AC blades cut me quite a bit more than duller but much smoother blades. Since I can't platinum-ceramic-nickel-cobalt-unicorn-rainbow-magic-polymer coat my straight razor after honing, I'm left with shining the blade the old fashioned way.
Are those already lapped and flattened?Quote:
Originally Posted by holli4pirating
Well, try with water first, I'd say, or maybe do water and then switch to oil for the finish if you really find it necessary.
No, the ones from woodcraft are not lapped, but, personally, I'd rather lap a hone than wait weeks for one.
Not sure but I'm under the impression that oil would clog a sure enough waterstone ? Also if I was going to use oil it would be a light honing oil. It seems to me that mineral oil is a bit thick. I have used a drop or two of dish soap on my Charnley Forest and it is a nice substitute for oil IME. If you really prefer oil stones maybe a hard Arkansas is a better option.
This hone is a very slow stone, just as others have mentioned...
It is also very cheap, and very large... I took a hacksaw to the end of mine and made myself a little slurry stone, I think Slart has done the same. Works great.
Be prepared for 100 +/- laps on a chinese 12k, assuming you use just water!
I don't have the ability to lap a hone just yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by holli4pirating
I can start with water, since airing it out or gently heating it will dry it and I can then oil soak it. I can't remove the oil completely.
This will of course be coming off a water-wetted Norton 4k/8k stone. Someone recommended I try to acquire these Japanese hones too... apparently the 6k is finer than the norton 8k....
Okay then, this should be perfectly fine I guess. At least I have some confidence in experimenting with water rather than a light oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Undream
If you do get that stone let us know what you think it might just be my next purchase at that price :)
ian
Thanks! I have to figure out HTF to actually hone up my Astrale on it first. I didn't do so hot with the Norton 4k/8k first try but I'll give it another shot before just sending it out to Lynn. Last time, I actually put damage on the edge (not chips or anything, just the edge is in disarray and needs a good honing... it looks like it's been shaved with without stroping or something). The point of honing is to straighten out the edge, not put it into dissarray.Quote:
Originally Posted by ianp1966
LoL (if thats ok on here)Quote:
Originally Posted by bluefoxicy
Well i'm certainly no expert, only just started myself, but i did read on here somewhere if your just learning to hone do 15 mins at a time maybe just once a day so you dont get tired or frustrated rather that try to get it all done in one session.
For me it also helps that i only have one hone to play with as i wait for my Norton 4/8 to arrive,from woodworking supplies online and my stropping oxide from the strop-shop:)
ian
ian
I've read here that some well respected honers use soap/lather on their finishing hones (natural stones, not synthetic) and it has the same effect of slowing the cutting. You might want to try that before you gunk up a stone with oil.
You can flatten a Chinese stone with 400-800 wet-dry sandpaper on a flat surface.
Jordan
Once I oil a honing stone, I keep them committed to oil and never try to use water on them again. I use oil on honing stones for long knives, axes, and hatchets.
Experimentation is good as long as the items are a keeper. The resell market for an oiled wetstone may be limited.
Its always good to hear about results from someone trying something new. Honing can be a tricky business and its alway nice to have experienced honemeisters weight in to guide others along.
I saw the SRP video that allows a newbie honer to go from step one to the razor being shave ready. Awesome video!
Pabster