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  1. #1
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    Default Chinese 12k wetstones and mineral oil?

    I'd quite like to use a polishing hone with oil rather than water, as oil will lubricate better and slow the cutting action, but help put a keener edge on the blade.

    Is that safe with one of these pre-lapped chinese 12k's?

    New Chinese Water Hone / Waterstone for Straight Razor - eBay (item 130347554852 end time Feb-24-10 06:17:19 PST)

    Thinking of using clear mineral oil.

  2. #2
    Know thyself holli4pirating's Avatar
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    Should be safe, but why would you want to slow the C12k? If it was any slower, it would put metal back onto your razor.

    Also, if you are in the US, you can get them at woodcraft.com or your local woodcraft. It should be much faster. Small is $20, large is $35. No rubbing stones, though...

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by holli4pirating View Post
    Should be safe, but why would you want to slow the C12k? If it was any slower, it would put metal back onto your razor.
    Good point. Oil gives a clearer polish, I've read; the best justification I can give is exactly that: it slows the cutting action. The lubrication would prevent the friction surface from getting as much grab; so whereas at some points it might grab and tear X amount of metal out, it would instead make the same cut but finer (less deep, less wide, less metal removal) since it can't get the same grip to remove metal.

    I would love to have a 15k and maybe 18k or 20k stone as well, but that may be excessive. The point of these would be to put a final polish edge on the razor; of course, eventually the edge is too fine and won't hold. If the stone cuts slow enough, however, it should manage to polish the bevel and not really sharpen the blade much-- which is what I want, a very sharp and very polished blade.

    My experience does not yet dictate how exactly to achieve that; what it does dictate is that unpolished blades like Merkur or Feather AC blades cut me quite a bit more than duller but much smoother blades. Since I can't platinum-ceramic-nickel-cobalt-unicorn-rainbow-magic-polymer coat my straight razor after honing, I'm left with shining the blade the old fashioned way.

    Quote Originally Posted by holli4pirating View Post
    Also, if you are in the US, you can get them at woodcraft.com or your local woodcraft. It should be much faster. Small is $20, large is $35. No rubbing stones, though...
    Are those already lapped and flattened?

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    Know thyself holli4pirating's Avatar
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    Well, try with water first, I'd say, or maybe do water and then switch to oil for the finish if you really find it necessary.

    No, the ones from woodcraft are not lapped, but, personally, I'd rather lap a hone than wait weeks for one.

  5. #5
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Not sure but I'm under the impression that oil would clog a sure enough waterstone ? Also if I was going to use oil it would be a light honing oil. It seems to me that mineral oil is a bit thick. I have used a drop or two of dish soap on my Charnley Forest and it is a nice substitute for oil IME. If you really prefer oil stones maybe a hard Arkansas is a better option.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  6. #6
    Brad Maggard Undream's Avatar
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    This hone is a very slow stone, just as others have mentioned...

    It is also very cheap, and very large... I took a hacksaw to the end of mine and made myself a little slurry stone, I think Slart has done the same. Works great.

    Be prepared for 100 +/- laps on a chinese 12k, assuming you use just water!

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    Quote Originally Posted by holli4pirating View Post
    Well, try with water first, I'd say, or maybe do water and then switch to oil for the finish if you really find it necessary.

    No, the ones from woodcraft are not lapped, but, personally, I'd rather lap a hone than wait weeks for one.
    I don't have the ability to lap a hone just yet.

    I can start with water, since airing it out or gently heating it will dry it and I can then oil soak it. I can't remove the oil completely.

    This will of course be coming off a water-wetted Norton 4k/8k stone. Someone recommended I try to acquire these Japanese hones too... apparently the 6k is finer than the norton 8k....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Undream View Post
    This hone is a very slow stone, just as others have mentioned...

    It is also very cheap, and very large... I took a hacksaw to the end of mine and made myself a little slurry stone, I think Slart has done the same. Works great.

    Be prepared for 100 +/- laps on a chinese 12k, assuming you use just water!
    Okay then, this should be perfectly fine I guess. At least I have some confidence in experimenting with water rather than a light oil.

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    Housebound Bum ! ianp1966's Avatar
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    If you do get that stone let us know what you think it might just be my next purchase at that price

    ian

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    Quote Originally Posted by ianp1966 View Post
    If you do get that stone let us know what you think it might just be my next purchase at that price

    ian
    Thanks! I have to figure out HTF to actually hone up my Astrale on it first. I didn't do so hot with the Norton 4k/8k first try but I'll give it another shot before just sending it out to Lynn. Last time, I actually put damage on the edge (not chips or anything, just the edge is in disarray and needs a good honing... it looks like it's been shaved with without stroping or something). The point of honing is to straighten out the edge, not put it into dissarray.

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