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Is it do-able to lap Naniwa 5K, 8K, and 12K SuperStones with the DMT 600 instead of the DMT 325?
My thinking is that the 325 DMT would only be useful to me for lapping the hones, whereas the 600 DMT would be a bit more useful for beginning to bring back a razor in bad condition, and lapping the Naniwas..
Pros and Cons???
According to Dia Sharp, the makers of the DMTs, lapping with anything finer than a 325 is going to ruin the diamond plate. The waterstones, or whatever, will strip the nickel away that the diamonds are embedded in and you'll have a paperweight.:p The 325 or the 120 under running water is the trick.
The 600(a long narrow one) fills a spot for me that nothing else would. where a water stone of similar(slightly coarser) grit is too soft malleable, when i want a quick coarse arm hair shaving sharp, probably soon to be ruined and resharpened
I lap with 400; as 600 is not all that far away finer, you may be ok; but it is that much closer to too fine, say 1000, or 1200.
I get the sense you'd rather not get too much more gear, in the long run I think esp. for razors you would be better served with 325-400 grit lap and include a 1k waterstone-which is quite a bit different than 600 dmt in practice-better for razors.
BTW, I bought a 600 with the same idea and was going to go through a lapping progression of 325, 600, and 1200 DMT. I did a bit of lapping with all three. Right around that time hi_bud_gl ruined a 1200 plate lapping stones. He posted about his experience and saved me from ruining mine.
He sent his back to the factory and they said that the best bet for lapping was the X or the XX but that the C (325) was doable but always with water trickling to wash away the buildup of swarf/slurry. I do like the 600 for some bevel issues on razors and for knife sharpening. BTW, the XX is bad to the bone for lapping. Sometimes I begin with that and when most of the pencil grid is gone go to the 325 to get the rest. Saves wear on my 325 and speeds up the process.
I killed my 1200 the same way as Sham. I'd stick with the recommended grit. I can see where you're coming from though.
+1 with most of the above, and I was just thinking of how the DMT 325 reacts with the Naniwa's unless you are lapping under running water, they almost stick together from the swarf build up.. I can't imagine lapping those stones with anything finer...
Thanks everyone for the good advice.
It seems as if the DMT 220 is the way to go for keeping the Naniwas in shape. Kinda' lucky I asked because the 325 was the way I was going to go!
Kevin... Yes, I'm trying to keep gear to a minimum for the moment, because there was so much I needed to go into straight shaving the way I wanted to do it. I'm sure in short order I'll have more and more stones and hones than I really need in actuality, in keeping with all the other associated equipment. I always shaved with a blade, either injector or DE, but it's remarkable all the money I've saved since looking at shaving as a pleasurable experience instead of a chore to make myself look presentable! :gaah:
So, a DMT 220 is what it is... and thanks again to all for the good advice!
Could you let us know how the 220 works out???
I have the 120 for Barbers hones and naturals
and the 325 for all else but was wondering how smooth the 220 lapped...
I'll do the best I can, Glen... But please remember that my observations may be highly suspect. I'm just taking baby steps in what I hope will become a long journey...Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
But I will post my thoughts and do my best to answer questions.
BlacknTan,
I lap all my Naniwas (1,3,5,8,10 & 12k) with the DMT 325, so far with success. I haven't had the 325 for a great period of time, so can't comment on whether things will continue to be peachy for an extended period !
Have fun !
Best regards
Russ
My 2c: I was using the DMT D8C (325) for lapping, but getting quite frustrated with the stiction, and getting *nowhere* on hard hones, like a coticule, barber hone, nakayama. I switched to the DMT W250CXNB Duosharp - interrupted surface rather than continuous - and YOWZAH, what a difference!! I can't believe I ever wasted my time with the D8C. The C "Coarse" grade works SOO much better than the D8C, by several factors. And the "X" Extra-Coarse is just a breeze. I am loving it. Plus, it is larger and lighter, making it much easier to use. Of course, it is much more expensive - but a) you get two hones and b) cutting lapping time and effort by 80-90% is SO worth it if you do regular honing.
Also, the thread makes me wonder about this: I have been using a D6EF (600/1200 continuous) for kickingup slurry on my j-nats - and had been advised that this was fine by several experts I trust. But Doesnt that pretty much work on the hone the same way that lapping does - i.e., according to the "dictum" that you can ruin the hone by lapping with finer than 325? (Now, since I don't use the D6EF for much honing, except in rare extraordinary cases of sheffieldfitis and impatience, it's not that big of a deal, but I'd still like to know.)
oh, and glen - I think the 220 laps just fine, not really noticeably less smooth than the 325. Though I usually flip over the W250CXNB to the 325 site and do a few quick swipes ont he 325, just because I can't resist.
I have only used the DMT continuous plates. I have lapped with the XX and the C and always under running water in the kitchen sink when at home or when at work in the sink at my tattoo station. Full disclosure, I use the DMT D8C at work and the Shapton GDLP with interuppted surface at home but always under running water. In the case of the DMT continuous plates the running water eliminates stiction issues for me.
I bought the XX DMT8" 120 grit IIRC because ChrisL and Utopian suggested it for barber hones. I have since quit lapping barber hones and just clean them throughly. Something I am experimenting with. What I have found the XX great for is preliminary lapping. I'll take the pencil grid down 90% of the way and then get the last 10% with the GDLP. This expedites the lapping process and conserves the diamond surface on the more expensive Shapton plate.
At one time I used my D8F 1200 to lap. I was noticing a gray residue on my Norton 4000 and wondered what it was. Fortunately for me my 1200 was new and Sham posted that he had ruined a 1200 lapping hones. So I realized the residue was the surface wear on my plate and quit using it for lapping in time to save it. Subsequently Dia Sharp, the makers o fhe DMT line, posted in their FAQ that waterstones should not be lapped with anything finer than a DMTC and that under running water.
They recommend the X or XX for lapping waterstones. I also have a credit card sized DMT 325 that I use for creating slurry on stones for which I don't have a matching slurry stone. This is very effective and convenient and they are relatively cheap.