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Yesterday, I experienced a most curious phenomenon. I poured water straight on my 12K stone and it evaporated immediately. It didn't run off, it simply disappeared! In a second, it was gone. I watched it before my very eyes. I'm brand new at this honing thing, so maybe this isn't as unusual as it seemed to me, but does this kind of thing happen all the time? Sorry, I can't give you the name of the hone.
Thats not evaporation you witnessed. It soaks into the stone.
Odd that a 12k would absorb water that quickly, as such high grit hones are usually quite dense. But it certainly didn't evaporate... unless you'd preheated the hone.
Is this a new SRP approved method? Can you teach us?Quote:
Originally Posted by holli4pirating
;):D
Still in the testing phases, but this new progression is HOT!
^THIS IS A JOKE! I DO NOT SUGGEST HEATING YOUR HONES!
I remember my naniwa 12k being a very thirsty hone when i had one.
EDIT: The below is a bad JOKE. DO NOT heat you hones. DO NOT cool your hones.Quote:
Originally Posted by JMS
Well, to quote my fifth grade self...
Duh!
Of course you want to pre-heat the hone. Any idiot knows that molecular motion is faster at higher temperatures. You want those grits dancing around the hone in order to speed up cutting action. The droplets of water on a properly heated hone should dance across the hone in the same manner as when you drop water in a skillet to test for adequate heating. Now the key is to keep the temperature just below ruining the temper of the blade or leaving singe marks in your dining room table. If you go over, you will regret the effect on your razor and your wife.
Now, obviously, the high heat hone is only for bevel setting. As you transition from setting the bevel to further sharpening, the temperature of the hone should be gradually reduced down to room temperature. This will slow down the vibrations of the grits and will allow for finer cutting into the steel.
The real challenge comes in the polishing stage. You would not believe the number of liquid nitrogen tanks Lynn has stashed away in his basement and I bet most of you don't even know about this secret. That's right, the honemeisters don't tell you everything they do to get those perfect edges. They give you just enough to think you are on the right path but they don't tell you the important stuff like the need for a 400 degree temperature drop between bevel setting and final polish. Anything above a 10k hone has to be done on a block of dry ice. Any hone above 20k has to be partially submerged in liquid nitrogen in order to slow the natural vibration of the grit down to a frequency of 42 Hz. That is the only way to get the most out of your hones.
Some of you guys actually remain under the delusion that honing is easy!
EDIT: The above is a bad JOKE. DO NOT heat you hones. DO NOT cool your hones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
Do you think the dry ice would crack the plastic bases on my naniwas?? just kidding.
Well yeah why do you reckon some of us a dead set against hand held honing!?>?Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
:rofl2:Quote:
Originally Posted by kevint
Oh come on now! After a while you build up a tolerance.
I'm temporarily working in a lab in which I was asked to find a tumor cell line frozen in 1993. Apparently this lab doesn't believe in record-keeping, as the strategy I was given to locate it was "well it's in there somewhere." After looking at every vial in every box and cane in 4 tanks I finally had to report that the desired vials no longer seemed to be in the lab's possession. To me, the response was priceless..."well, just keep looking."
:banghead:
No, I didn't know about Utopian's technique then so the stone wasn't pre-heated. Well, accept that everything is preheated in the 90 degree + weather we've had for the past two weeks.
All my Naniwa stones seem to be a lot more thirsty than the Shaptons.
There are a lot of ways to manipulate the boiling temperature of a liquid.
Clausius Clapeyron shows that the pressure of a system will change the fugacity of a liquid:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/math/6/c...62ad83b405.png
It is also true, that a compound (liquid, or solid) that is less volatile and added to a volatile liquid (such as water) will increase or decrease the temperature said liquid will evaporate at:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/math/8/0...934af66170.png
with dTsdp = difference in boiling Temperature
Ke = ebullioscopic constant and b = molality
(thatīs how de-icing with salt works)
So you either managed to decrease the boiling temperature of water by adding a special (so far unknown ^^) compound, or you completely evacuated the room you where honing in, causing dP to become extremely high and force the water molecules to evaporate.
Or, and this is only my own opinion, the water did not evaporate,
but got soaked into the stone, or run elsewhere. :hmmm:
Sorry, I could not resist :rofl2:
To add at least *some* thing usefull:
There seems to be some difference in thirstyness in Naniwa.
My SS1k, 2k, 3k, 5k and 10k seem to be less thirsty than my 8k,
allthough, and this is interesting, my SS8k seemed not that thirsty for over a year and suddenly, it drank like a sailor
(exaaggerated, of course, it still doesnīt require any soaking but 2 instead of 1 spritzer)
Well, this is clearly the most helpful post of the day!
:thinking:
Hey Ron,Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
Looks like it's time for the lab to think about biorepository inventory tracking, management, and record keeping system. Look into CaTissue (this link give you some overview). It's a bit buggy, but does work very well. It's free and can be downloaded from NCI. I don't want to hijack the thread, but if interested, PM me.
:HJ
Thanks but that's not necessary. I'm only working in that lab on a temporary basis. They can clean up their own messes. I had no difficulties keeping track of everything in my own labs with my own databases but this is not my lab and so it's not my problem and not my place to correct. I just don't understand how someone can believe they can function in such a disorganized manner.
:rant:
No problem...It was just a suggestionQuote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
Guys don't even joke about this. it's gonna be like breadknifing. Guys are going to see it and think it's just another routine honing method. Now they'll see this and start putting their hones in a 350F oven for an hour or two to enhance the effect.Quote:
Originally Posted by holli4pirating
You guys are starting something and you'll have slurry and hone debris on your hands.
You're right. I'm sorry. That was stupid. I didn't give a thought to the possibility that someone could take it seriously. I've edited my post.Quote:
Originally Posted by thebigspendur
Holli started it.
Psh, I never listen to that Holli guy anyway!Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
Maybe he used heavy water so it soaked in better eh?
Hey! You said not to joke about this stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by thebigspendur
:rant:
What if everyone starts contacting the Los Alamos labs for their honing water?
:)
Back to reality and to leadduck...
You wrote in your original post that you cannot say the name of the 12k hone with which you experienced this. Is that because you don't know its name or that you really don't want to say what it is? Could you at least say if it is a natural or a synthetic hone? I'm curious because it is odd for higher grit hones to suck up water quickly.
The Norton 220 and 1000 grit hones are very thirsty. I use them in a container that keeps them partially submerged while honing but I still have to add water to them very frequently--like every 30 seconds. I would assume that unlike these Nortons, if you soak your mystery 12k for a while, it should no longer be so thirsty and you should be able to hone with it just fine.
Why do you think TBS lives in New Mexico?
Yeah, I noticed that!Quote:
Originally Posted by holli4pirating
Now, where did I put my Geiger counter?
Yea, there's this tunnel under my house....