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Thread: Evaporation
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07-12-2010, 11:51 PM #1
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07-12-2010, 11:55 PM #2
Still in the testing phases, but this new progression is HOT!
^THIS IS A JOKE! I DO NOT SUGGEST HEATING YOUR HONES!Last edited by holli4pirating; 07-13-2010 at 09:27 PM.
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07-13-2010, 12:03 AM #3
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Thanked: 1262I remember my naniwa 12k being a very thirsty hone when i had one.
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07-13-2010, 08:41 PM #4
Guys don't even joke about this. it's gonna be like breadknifing. Guys are going to see it and think it's just another routine honing method. Now they'll see this and start putting their hones in a 350F oven for an hour or two to enhance the effect.
You guys are starting something and you'll have slurry and hone debris on your hands.No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero
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07-13-2010, 08:50 PM #5
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Thanked: 3795
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07-13-2010, 09:28 PM #6
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07-14-2010, 04:36 PM #7
Maybe he used heavy water so it soaked in better eh?
No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero
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07-14-2010, 04:52 PM #8
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Thanked: 3795Hey! You said not to joke about this stuff.
What if everyone starts contacting the Los Alamos labs for their honing water?
Back to reality and to leadduck...
You wrote in your original post that you cannot say the name of the 12k hone with which you experienced this. Is that because you don't know its name or that you really don't want to say what it is? Could you at least say if it is a natural or a synthetic hone? I'm curious because it is odd for higher grit hones to suck up water quickly.
The Norton 220 and 1000 grit hones are very thirsty. I use them in a container that keeps them partially submerged while honing but I still have to add water to them very frequently--like every 30 seconds. I would assume that unlike these Nortons, if you soak your mystery 12k for a while, it should no longer be so thirsty and you should be able to hone with it just fine.
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07-13-2010, 12:17 AM #9
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Thanked: 3795EDIT: The below is a bad JOKE. DO NOT heat you hones. DO NOT cool your hones.
Well, to quote my fifth grade self...
Duh!
Of course you want to pre-heat the hone. Any idiot knows that molecular motion is faster at higher temperatures. You want those grits dancing around the hone in order to speed up cutting action. The droplets of water on a properly heated hone should dance across the hone in the same manner as when you drop water in a skillet to test for adequate heating. Now the key is to keep the temperature just below ruining the temper of the blade or leaving singe marks in your dining room table. If you go over, you will regret the effect on your razor and your wife.
Now, obviously, the high heat hone is only for bevel setting. As you transition from setting the bevel to further sharpening, the temperature of the hone should be gradually reduced down to room temperature. This will slow down the vibrations of the grits and will allow for finer cutting into the steel.
The real challenge comes in the polishing stage. You would not believe the number of liquid nitrogen tanks Lynn has stashed away in his basement and I bet most of you don't even know about this secret. That's right, the honemeisters don't tell you everything they do to get those perfect edges. They give you just enough to think you are on the right path but they don't tell you the important stuff like the need for a 400 degree temperature drop between bevel setting and final polish. Anything above a 10k hone has to be done on a block of dry ice. Any hone above 20k has to be partially submerged in liquid nitrogen in order to slow the natural vibration of the grit down to a frequency of 42 Hz. That is the only way to get the most out of your hones.
Some of you guys actually remain under the delusion that honing is easy!
EDIT: The above is a bad JOKE. DO NOT heat you hones. DO NOT cool your hones.Last edited by Utopian; 07-13-2010 at 08:54 PM.
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The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Utopian For This Useful Post:
LawsonStone (08-14-2010), Scipio (07-13-2010), Stubear (07-13-2010), ursus (07-13-2010)
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07-13-2010, 02:32 AM #10