Newbie question on hone use

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http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...forall/BBW.png

Just ordered this 8"x3" coticule/BBW combo which will arrive in a day or two. The last time I honed a blade was my cub scout knife 40 years ago!

I currently have a Wosty Pipe razor and a Clauss USMC, that Lynn recently honed, and are my day to day shaves which at some point I would like to be able to touch up on my own. I also have two more Clauss razors that need to have the bevels reset and then finished as well.

I've been studying the hone wiki for days and I'm frankly overwhelmed with the amount of details and info posted so I thought a seasoned member could distill it down for me.

Question one: Is this cot/BBW combo enough to set the bevels AND bring the the razors to shave ready keeness? (assuming I know what I'm doing)

Question two: I'm going to order a slurry stone, does creating a slurry on this combo stone do any damage or make the surface uneven? Should I have a separate set just for slurry?

Any advise on the minimum stones(types) needed to achieve the above would be welcome.

That is an expensive first hone. Hopefully it will be a good one. I say "hopefully" because you take your chances with any natural hone in that the cutting characteristics will vary from one to the next. This makes it more difficult to say whether or not a bevel setting can be done with your particular hone.

Answer one: Coticules are great hones. They can be addictive and they are fun to play with but some can be a hell of a lot of work to use for bevel setting and some are practically impossible to use for that purpose. Again it's a hone variability issue. To me, Bart's unicot and dilucot honing strategies are an interesting novelty, but not something I personally would choose to use. I don't mean that as a put down of them, I just don't want to waste the hones that way. I prefer to use them as touch up or finishing hones. You will just have to experiment with yours and figure it out on your own. You can either by a small bout or a small diamond plate for raising a slurry, which you will need for bevel setting.

Answer two: If you uniformly go over the surface, there is little risk of making the surface uneven. Over time if you notice the ends are higher, then just concentrate on rubbing those areas to make the slurry. Rubbing the surface does not damage it--just the opposite, it refreshes it, though that is less of an issue for coticules as they are pretty much constantly refreshing themselves as they are being used.

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Originally Posted by WineGuyD

I've been studying the hone wiki for days and I'm frankly overwhelmed with the amount of details and info posted so I thought a seasoned member could distill it down for me.

Question one: Is this cot/BBW combo enough to set the bevels AND bring the the razors to shave ready keeness? (assuming I know what I'm doing)

Distilled down answer : In theory, yes... in practice, GFL

Question two: I'm going to order a slurry stone, does creating a slurry on this combo stone do any damage or make the surface uneven? Should I have a separate set just for slurry?

Distilled down answer: A DMT 325 will do everything...

Any advise on the minimum stones(types) needed to achieve the above would be welcome.

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Hope that helps :)

I'm not as experienced as others here, but I will give you a few small things I've learned that might even be more useful for you than the nuances and added details that you learn from others much more experienced. (You can thank me later!)

First, the combo stone you have ordered is a top notch, A+ stone. It looks like it comes from Michael Poe at Best Sharpening Stones, and he sells only the very best Belgian stones. I'm sure the quality will be more than sufficient for your needs.

And yes, you can learn to hone on a $250+ 8x3 Belgian combo stone, just like you can learn to drive in an S-class Mercedes. It's just not an experience that most here can say they've duplicated. If you take things slowly and watch some videos of others honing, I'm sure you will have it down in no time.

You will need a slurry stone, because it's just easier to get your sharpening started with a nice slurry already on top of the stone, and Michael will probably sell you an excellent little combo slurry stone to go with your 8x3 stone. The slurry stone does not make the surface of the main stone uneven, unless you rub it on just one tiny spot on the surface of the stone. But why would you do that? Just ask Michael to make sure the stone he is giving you is completely lapped and flat and ready to hone with, and you will be good to go.

You do not want to start out by trying to set a bevel on a combo stone. It just takes too much time, and if you don't know what you are looking for to begin with, then trying to figure out how to do it on that stone is going to make things even more complicated. On the other hand, unless you are starting out with either a brand new, never honed razor or something else that is completely not shave ready, you probably will not need to set any bevels, at least not right away. For bevel setting most razors, I think a 1000 grit stone is probably the best. Lower grits are for razors that need to be restored more than honed.

And you probably will want to get some kind of finishing stone too -- something beyond the coticule just for polishing. If you love the natural stones and want to go deluxe with it, then get a nice Escher or Japanese finishing stone (or, like me, get both of these, then buy two or three or four more of each of them, then fight with your wife about your HAD addiction, then . . . where was I?!?). You can of course finish the razor completely on just the coticule, but again, that takes some skill and practice, and right now, you want to get results! So spring for a nice finishing stone too. I understand the Chinese 12k stone is excellent too and inexpensive, although I've never tried one.

Last thing -- get a small lapping stone, like a Naniwa 220. These stones are really useful in case you need to flatten your coticule for some reason or you want to build a bit of slurry on your finishing stone. And they are not too expensive either.

Anyway, I hope this helps, and definitely post some photos of that stone when you get it from Michael!

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

Hope that helps :)

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Thanks!

What is the meaning of "GFL"

Great Foutains of Lather

:beer2:

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Originally Posted by JeffE

First, the combo stone you have ordered is a top notch, A+ stone. It looks like it comes from Michael Poe at Best Sharpening Stones, and he sells only the very best Belgian stones. I'm sure the quality will be more than sufficient for your needs.

A

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You nailed it, it's from Best Sharpening Stones, I believe in quality over quantity and thought this could be something of an heirloom if cared for well.

The stone just arrived shortly after posting my questions and I'm a little surprised and disappointed however, it appears that the stone I received is not the one he posted a pictures of on Ebay. If you look at the following pictures you will note some cosmetic defects on the short edge including a long vein and a short perpendicular black vein. Also, there seams to be a noticeable grain(almost wood like) running the length of the coticule side. In the stone photo I posted earlier, which was pulled from his ebay auction, you can see clearly that the grain of the coticule is much more homogeneous. Given that this was a $260 stone, Should I be concerned about these issues and bring it up with him?

http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...l/b7eda548.jpg

http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...l/ab5fe07d.jpg

http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...l/76d8521d.jpg

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You can tell Michael if you're not happy, and he will refund your money right away. He is a stand-up guy, to my knowledge. I've bought from him in the past and never had a problem.

It's hard to tell if I'm looking at the photos in the way that you are, but what I am seeing a simple vein or two that runs through the length of the stone. These are not only not a problem, but many people (myself included) even consider them to be desirable as they add to the beauty of the surface of the coticule. Some of the surface veins in coticules can be pink or salmon colored, and there are even very dark brown or black splotches formed from magnesium. Very cool stuff, in my estimation.

Now, here's the exceptions. If you are showing me something that is actually a CRACK and not a vein, then you should send the stone back. Your stone is too expensive to arrive with a crack in it, and Michael would certainly know the difference between a crack and a vein. Anytime you see a crack in a coticule, it's just trouble.

The second situation is one I have not encountered with my stones, but sometimes there is a vein running through the stone that is harder than the material you are sharpening so that, over time, the vein leaves small but important imperfections in the surface that you are trying to hone. I don't think this is the situation you have, but you can usually check this by lapping the stone a bit and feeling the vein with your fingertips or even honing a few razors on it. You can ask Michael about it too, but I'm 99.99% positive that this is not the situation you have here.

Gorgeous stone, in my opinion anyway. Don't send it back before using it!!

Also, post some photos of the BBW side too, if you can. I think the BBW side is as useful as the coticule, if not more so, but the BBW doesn't get as much good press. The BBW side should be purplish-blue-black, and hopefully it has dark, sparkly dots embedded in it. Those are the garnets near the surface.

I didn't mention before, but one thing to keep in mind if you believe in buying "quality." These are all NATURAL STONES that come from the ground, which means that they all have variations, veins, blooms and other natural features in them. (Some of my Japanese stones look like they were just chipped out of the ground yesterday with a hand-chisel!) This is part of the pleasure and beauty of natural stones -- kind of like rare, old wines, right?

The coticule side looks perfectly fine IMHO, the sides even look naturally bonded. You'd think a perfectly straight border would be ideal like glued combos have but the naturally bonded combos are valued more because of looks and rarity. Personally I don't know what makes a Coticule 'Selected', but unless you specifically asked for 'Selected' you shouldn't worry about it.

The yellow veins could be characteristic for a certain Coticule layer. My new La Veinette has them too.

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Originally Posted by JeffE

You can tell Michael if you're not happy, and he will refund your money right away. He is a stand-up guy, to my knowledge. I've bought from him in the past and never had a problem.

It's hard to tell if I'm looking at the photos in the way that you are, but what I am seeing a simple vein or two that runs through the length of the stone. These are not only not a problem, but many people (myself included) even consider them to be desirable as they add to the beauty of the surface of the coticule. Some of the surface veins in coticules can be pink or salmon colored, and there are even very dark brown or black splotches formed from magnesium. Very cool stuff, in my estimation.

Now, here's the exceptions. If you are showing me something that is actually a CRACK and not a vein, then you should send the stone back. Your stone is too expensive to arrive with a crack in it, and Michael would certainly know the difference between a crack and a vein. Anytime you see a crack in a coticule, it's just trouble.

The second situation is one I have not encountered with my stones, but sometimes there is a vein running through the stone that is harder than the material you are sharpening so that, over time, the vein leaves small but important imperfections in the surface that you are trying to hone. I don't think this is the situation you have, but you can usually check this by lapping the stone a bit and feeling the vein with your fingertips or even honing a few razors on it. You can ask Michael about it too, but I'm 99.99% positive that this is not the situation you have here.

Gorgeous stone, in my opinion anyway. Don't send it back before using it!!

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I can live with the long salmon colored vein if you are telling me it has no consequence on the honing performance, but that black vein and the grinding blemishes are visually annoying. I'm really not in the mood to go through the hassle of returning or swapping the stone but I really expected better cosmetic quality for the price.

Here's a few pics of the BBW side for JeffE

The circular grinding marks can be felt with the tip of a finger...problem?
http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...l/ab13c19b.jpg

there are sparkling garnets, but they are not dark, more like mica
http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...l/715de2bc.jpg

Hi,

Sorry I can't see your pics, I'm at work and some come up, others don't.
Selected grade hones should have no visable flaws or defects, Standard grade will.

Anyway, Coticules are not newbie friendly hones. They take a lot of practice and there's no consistency between them. Each performs differently. Setting a bevel on a Coticule is almost like a magic trick, really. I'd much rather have a good old Norton or Naniwa 1k. As the others said, They're fun to play with, but hard to learn on. If you have the means, I'd get a Norton 4/8k or some Naniwa's, maybe a few old junker razors to practice on. You will have to learn your Coticule. IMHO, They are not the end all, Do all hones..As I said, I can't see it, but if your not happy with, you never will be. It will always bother you that you didn't send it back.

8x3 natural combo's, (if I read correctly) are very, very hard to come by. I was a vendor, I still am to some extent, and I've only seen/sold one..

Also, IMO, A slurry does not harm your hone one bit, That's where coticules excel, and if your lucky enough to be able to set a bevel, it will be with a slurry. I would use a slurry stone. A DMT or sanding will just eat away at your 260.00 hone. Each time you grate or sand, your washing expensive Coticule down the drain. I can't see how thick the Coti layer is, but normally 8x3 combos are thin...Just my opinion...

Rich

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Originally Posted by Piet

The coticule side looks perfectly fine IMHO, the sides even look naturally bonded. You'd think a perfectly straight border would be ideal like glued combos have but the naturally bonded combos are valued more because of looks and rarity. Personally I don't know what makes a Coticule 'Selected', but unless you specifically asked for 'Selected' you shouldn't worry about it.

The yellow veins could be charasteric for a certain Coticule layer. My new La Veinette has them too.

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This is a "naturally bonded" stone, not a glued pair...that's why I sprang for $260, you don't see these too often.

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Originally Posted by WineGuyD

The circular grinding marks can be felt with the tip of a finger...problem?

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Not a problem, it just means you will have to lap the stone prior to use, see the wiki :)

Zib's point is a good one. If you have decided that you don't like the stone for whatever reason, please don't let me talk you into it. Just send it back. Reputable dealers like Michael always take stones back because natural stones have so many different character traits, you don't really know whether you'll like the stone until you try it out.

Personally, I like the look of that stone, but I suppose I might be in the minority here. I do know that Michael cares about having happy customers, so why not give him a shout? He's also got a really nice, thick 6x2 stone for less than half the price of the combo you have, and you'll find that there's really no difference at all between using the 6x2 and the 8x3. I even have a little 4x2 at home that is one of my favorites for honing.

Also, if it's ok for me to add, when you get lots of personal advice and attention from other members here, it's cool to click the little "thanks" button on their messages.

About the circular marks, they should have been lapped out before sending the stone to you. If you have a small lapping stone (like what I mentioned above -- Naniwa makes a great one), it will take those marks out in about 10 seconds. Not a problem, if you're inclined to keep the stone for other reasons. If you're sending the stone back, however, I would mention it to Michael. It's easy to fix, but given your beginner status, he should have taken care of it for you.

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Originally Posted by JeffE

Also, if it's ok for me to add, when you get lots of personal advice and attention from other members here, it's cool to click the little "thanks" button on their messages.

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I have been posting "thanks" to those that I did not type a written response to.

I sent an email to BSS with pics of the stone to voice my dissatisfaction with the fact that I received a stone other than the one they represented in the ebay auction and asked them to comment before I leave feedback. Since this is a rare size (8x3) and a rare combo stone, I prefer to keep it unless Michael has the one in the photo or another that is blemish free to swap. I'm sure he is as reputable as you say so I'd like to hear his opinion on the stone.

Lovely looking stone you've purchased. IMHO the imperfections are highly desirable, and to me, far more desirable aesthetically than a consistently coloured one (ceteris paribus in terms of garnet content).

Now I take it you've either not read or ignored the numerous posts as to why coticules are not recommended to those new to honing. We will have a hard time differentiating between your technique and or the stone should you run into difficulties, as the exact characteristics are unique to each coticule. No two are the same, where as a 3/8k Naniwa or similar is uniform.

Anyway, its too late although I wanted to make you aware, as Jimmy says, you have fine arrows but do not know how to use your bow. Coticules are not always straight forward.

Not to daunt you, but I also learned on a coticule. I was able to make shave ready a factory edge and perform touch ups. That was it, I never understood how to use it to do anything more. I bought synthetics, learned to bevel set, then went back to the coticule and bought other coticules.

Now I can do all on one should I choose to, with the exception of a badly chipped edge, though I speculate it is indeed possible with enough time. Its not beyond my ability, but it certainly exceeds my desire when I own a DMT 325.

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Originally Posted by Scipio

Now I take it you've either not read or ignored the numerous posts as to why coticules are not recommended to those new to honing. We will have a hard time differentiating between your technique and or the stone should you run into difficulties, as the exact characteristics are unique to each coticule. No two are the same, where as a 3/8k Naniwa or similar is uniform.

Its not beyond my ability, but it certainly exceeds my desire when I own a DMT 325.

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"ceteris paribus", I figured I'd grow into it. Are you suggesting I get a DMT 325 to set bevels?

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Originally Posted by WineGuyD

"ceteris paribus", I figured I'd grow into it. Are you suggesting I get a DMT 325 to set bevels?

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I own a DMT 325 as a lapping plate, to lap all my hones with. It also is highly effective to sharpen, before honing, but only really with a nicked edge. An 800 King is my main artificial bevel setter. A DMT 1200 is also very good, as is a 1K Naniwa or 1K Norton, 1K Shapton and various others. For all you know your coticule may be an efficient bevel setter, I have one that is. It's just they are better at taking an established bevel to shave ready. Even Bart uses a 1200 DMT I believe.

Here's some photos of my combo stones. The biggest one comes from Michael -- almost 9" by almost 4". It's like honing on a dinner table, and I never use it. The middle hone is the one with the most veins and magnesium spotting, but it's the one I use the most. The small one is excellent too. I hope this helps.

A. I'm sooo jealous!!! And it looks totally homogeneous...isn't that desirable?

B. Why don't you use the 9x4?

D. By using the narrower hone, don't you run the risk of getting an uneven hone from using an X pattern?

After our discussion I'm resolved to keeping the stone but I have not yet heard back from BSS and I'd simply like to know if he has another one with less blemishes to swap. THANKS!

Lastly, if I were to add just one more stone to extend the range of options I have with regards to managing my razors...what would you recommend?

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Originally Posted by WineGuyD

A. I'm sooo jealous!!! And it looks totally homogeneous...isn't that desirable?

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Homogeneous Coticules are boring, texture and/or some imperfections will give it character.

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Originally Posted by WineGuyD

B. Why don't you use the 9x4?

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Such wide natural hones are nice to show off to friends but impractical for razor honing IMHO.

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Originally Posted by WineGuyD

D. By using the narrower hone, don't you run the risk of getting an uneven hone from using an X pattern?

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Probably less chance than with a 3" wide hone, but it's not really an issue because you can just lap it once in a while to keep it flat

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Originally Posted by WineGuyD

After our discussion I'm resolved to keeping the stone but I have not yet heard back from BSS and I'd simply like to know if he has another one with less blemishes to swap. THANKS!

Lastly, if I were to add just one more stone to extend the range of options I have with regards to managing my razors...what would you recommend?

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I wouldn't buy anything finer than this Coticule just yet. First learn how to get the most out of this one. I would recommand a coarse synthetic (combo) so you don't have to rely on using slurry for bevel setting.

Here are some nice Coticules with character ;)

That is one beautiful Coti. It looks like someone speckled it with blue paint...very nice.
Thanks....
BTW, If you ever get sick of it, Well, you know.....

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Originally Posted by Piet

Homogeneous Coticules are boring, texture and/or some imperfections will give it character.
Do the textures interfere with the honing action of the stone?

Such wide natural hones are nice to show off to friends but impractical for razor honing IMHO.
Why? Isn't it preferable to be able to have the entire length of the razor honed in one lap without the edge ever leaving the stone?


Probably less chance than with a 3" wide hone, but it's not really an issue because you can just lap it once in a while to keep it flat

I wouldn't buy anything finer than this Coticule just yet. First learn how to get the most out of this one. I would recommand a coarse synthetic (combo) so you don't have to rely on using slurry for bevel setting.

Here are some nice Coticules with character ;)

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Agreed, those stones have more character in their look, but are you telling me they will hone 100% as good as a homogeneous stone?

I think you're a little confused - the homogenous hones are in no way better or worse functionally. It depends on the garnet content in the hone and the composition of fossilised binding particles. The lines are cosmetic, usually manganese deposits.

There is not any relationship between quality of honing and the consistency of a coticule's colour. And when you ask 'will they hone as well?' it would depend upon what you deem 'as well' to be...but I digress. Bottom line is that the character associated with the natural imperfections within the rock is purely cosmetic.

And Jeff - that 9x4 would serve FAR more use as two 9x2s. Have a professional cut it up! I'd personally hate to hone on such a wide hone. And if you never use it as you say, then really I don't know what you are doing with it.

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Originally Posted by Scipio

And Jeff - that 9x4 would serve FAR more use as two 9x2s. Have a professional cut it up! I'd personally hate to hone on such a wide hone. And if you never use it as you say, then really I don't know what you are doing with it.

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Again I'll ask at the risk of sounding dense.

Why is a wide stone not as good as a narrower one? If I'm dragging a razors edge across a stone that is as wide or wider than the stone...doesn't that help to get a more even and consistent hone versus dragging a razor blade across a stone that is say 1/2" narrower than the edge.

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Originally Posted by WineGuyD

Again I'll ask at the risk of sounding dense.

Why is a wide stone not as good as a narrower one? If I'm dragging a razors edge across a stone that is as wide or wider than the stone...doesn't that help to get a more even and consistent hone versus dragging a razor blade across a stone that is say 1/2" narrower than the edge.

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Firstly, a four inch hone is far wider than any razors edge, they aren't often much greater than 3 inches. He could cut it in two, sell one and still have a better hone than before!

Second, many prefer an X stroke for 2 reasons. 1) If the hone is even a tiny bit out of true (ie. not 100% flat) the X will minimize any event that the razors edge will not touch the hone. 2) Often a blade is warped. Again, the latter applies in that it is easier to put a correction stroke on a narrow hone.

Some guys feel a narrow hone is better for smiling blades. In the case of the 9x4, 4 inches wide is really wide, so about an inch of the hone is not being used, more or less. I see what Scipio means...

Cutting into 2in wide pieces would be more practical. However, That is a rare site, and me, personally, I wouldn't cut it. Also, any work done on a narrow hone, like 1.5 can be done on a 3 inch wide hone...It's personal preference....

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Originally Posted by zib

Some guys feel a narrow hone is better for smiling blades.

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Ah! but I have a Clauss USMC thats frowning and needs a good touch up or possibly a bevel set. Wouldn't the wider stone be helpful for the frown?

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Originally Posted by zib

Cutting into 2in wide pieces would be more practical. However, That is a rare site, and me, personally, I wouldn't cut it. Also, any work done on a narrow hone, like 1.5 can be done on a 3 inch wide hone...It's personal preference....

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I would never try it myself, and if there were a high chance of it cracking or it being quite delicate and likely to fragment; I would not do it. I have never cut a coticule, but if it could be done at low risk then I'd do it in Jeff's case. Otherwise, I wouldn't chance it. Not being in that position with a big old coti I never use, I dont have that problem thank the lord!

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Originally Posted by WineGuyD

A. I'm sooo jealous!!! And it looks totally homogeneous...isn't that desirable?

B. Why don't you use the 9x4?

D. By using the narrower hone, don't you run the risk of getting an uneven hone from using an X pattern?

After our discussion I'm resolved to keeping the stone but I have not yet heard back from BSS and I'd simply like to know if he has another one with less blemishes to swap. THANKS!

Lastly, if I were to add just one more stone to extend the range of options I have with regards to managing my razors...what would you recommend?

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To answer your questions, the non-homogenous blotches and veins add to the beauty, in my opinion. The largest stone is particularly fine and comes from Michael Poe's personal use collection -- he picked it out himself from the ones he gets from Belgium

I don't generally use the 9x4 because it's so large and valuable that I'm worried about someone knocking it off the vanity in the bathroom where I do my honing. So I end up keeping my "cheaper" stones in the bathroom, and those are the ones that get the most use.

The x-stroke is actually better to use for honing, because it creates a bit of a micro-tooth pattern in the metal at the edge. More experienced guys can tell you more about this, but I think the x-stroke actually works better

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Originally Posted by WineGuyD

Ah! but I have a Clauss USMC thats frowning and needs a good touch up or possibly a bevel set. Wouldn't the wider stone be helpful for the frown?

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In the case of a true frowning blade, (Wider at the heel, than the toe)
It really needs to be repaired if possible, I hate to say it, but breadknifed.
And yes, in that case, I'd have a 3in wide hone for sure. Work like that, I'd use a DMT. Once the blade is straight again, true...You'd start from scratch...Reset the bevel and go from there. I've never done any work like that, but I know where to get advice....!:)

Here's what the wiki says: http://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwi..._damaged_blade

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Originally Posted by WineGuyD

http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...l/coticule.png

http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/s...forall/BBW.png

Just ordered this 8"x3" coticule/BBW combo which will arrive in a day or two. The last time I honed a blade was my cub scout knife 40 years ago!

I currently have a Wosty Pipe razor and a Clauss USMC, that Lynn recently honed, and are my day to day shaves which at some point I would like to be able to touch up on my own. I also have two more Clauss razors that need to have the bevels reset and then finished as well.

I've been studying the hone wiki for days and I'm frankly overwhelmed with the amount of details and info posted so I thought a seasoned member could distill it down for me.

Question one: Is this cot/BBW combo enough to set the bevels AND bring the the razors to shave ready keeness? (assuming I know what I'm doing)

Question two: I'm going to order a slurry stone, does creating a slurry on this combo stone do any damage or make the surface uneven? Should I have a separate set just for slurry?

Any advise on the minimum stones(types) needed to achieve the above would be welcome.

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Since you have to ask the first answer is to focus on maintaining the edge
and leave setting the bevel for later or for others.

You have a good looking water stone. Use it a bit like a barber hone
to start. When the edge Lynn put on it begins to fade run some
water on your hone, apply a bit of lather and give the razor about
ten smooth deliberate honing strokes. Rinse the stone; rinse, dry
and strop the razor.

Depending on the razor you might need to do this once or twice a month.
You might want to do it once a week... if so use less strokes.

If you coticule is a slow one you can wet the coticule and rub it
with the rubbing stone and then give the razor some strokes....
drip a bit of water, some more strokes, drip some more water
some more strokes rinse the coticule and finish with some very
light smooth strokes.

Use the rubbing stone to speed up the hone, rinse off the slurry
for the final finish, lather makes light strokes easy.

Once in a while lap the coticule flat. Coarse or Medium wet dry paper
on a flat surface will do it. For a home shaver once the hone
is flat you may only need to re-lap it flat a couple times a year.
If you are not working under running water only lap
a little bit then rinse the wet-dry paper and the hone.
You will find that a coticule is soft and laps quickly.

As for the razors that need their bevel reset. Start with
a marker test and hone on your coticule with a light slurry.
If the magic marker ink gets honed off the bevel is likely
good. Dilute the slurry stepwise each ten strokes so that
at about 40 strokes you have clear water for the last ten.
Strop and shave test.

Try this a couple times and if it does not sharpen the razor
to a good shave send it out. The cost of a set of good 1K
grading down to your coticule hones for setting a bevel is possibly
more than a couple trips to a honemaster via USPS or UPS
so take advantage of the pile of rocks a honemaster has.

Your coticule looks like a good one (OK hard to tell by looking).
Act as if it is a good one and a dozen light monthly/ weekly
strokes with a bit of lather or clear water should keep the
blade smooth and sharp almost forever.

A LIGHT TOUCH....