Sealing Jnats

Hello, I want to seal my jnats. Went to home depot and was looking at clear polyurethane. Its got oil in it . There are a few types, thompsns watersealer for masonry, water based oil based etc. Any advise as to what to buy. can I use a spray if I tape the top surface of the stone, wash each stone and let dry for how long,and how many coats and how long before I get it wet after sealing. And any other advice as Ive never done this before. Im asking alot here fellas I know, but I dont want to mess it up. I dont think an air gun is agood idea, or is it? Thanks

You can use some plain old clear nail polish.

I go old-school and use urushi which is a pain in the ass (it takes forever to dry and can kill you if you're allergic) but when it dries it looks awesome. I apply a thin layer of polyurethane on top of that for longevity. As per Gamma's suggestion I have tried nail polish on a few nagura and it works well. Revlon is more expensive but more effective according to him but I haven't tried it yet.

I've always used clear nail polish but be sure to get the traditional nitrocellulose-disolved-in-acetone/methylcellosolve type. Some of the modern kind have a completely different formulation. I would test one those carefully before committing a prized jnat to it. Some solvents & plasticizers will bleed through the stone. eg- the plasticizer in the rubber blocks on a new Steelex stone holder will bleed through a Chosera, softening the surface, if left together overnight (don't ask).

Your mention of water base polyurethane made me think of the Minwax Polycrylic that I have used to finish scales. It produces a very nice, durable finish but is a pita to use until you learn how to avoid bubble & I'd set it aside. I just dug it out of the storage pile and applied it to the bottom and sides of a Kouzaki stone. I'll let you know how it works out.



rs,
Tack

Spray lacquer, spray clear acrylic.

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Originally Posted by bill3152

Hello, I want to seal my jnats. Went to home depot and was looking at clear polyurethane. Its got oil in it . There are a few types, thompsns watersealer for masonry, water based oil based etc. Any advise as to what to buy. can I use a spray if I tape the top surface of the stone, wash each stone and let dry for how long,and how many coats and how long before I get it wet after sealing. And any other advice as Ive never done this before. Im asking alot here fellas I know, but I dont want to mess it up. I dont think an air gun is agood idea, or is it? Thanks

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Yes ... :)

I would say don't overthink it.
Actually I know a guy that just uses water based lacquer & just re-coats it as it peels off but if you have soft stones or those prone to cracking the traditional paper & urushi is hard to beat. Most hard finishers don't really need sealing.

Shellac works great
Nail polish works great
Urushi works- very dangerous if you are allergic, I am also pretty sure it is banned to import in US now.
You can use marine epoxy, any other water based or oil based lacquer.

I prefer Cashew lacquer - it is derivative of Urushi and cashew, it iswhat is used now in Japan mainly.

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Originally Posted by onimaru55

I would say don't overthink it.

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+1

I opted to seal almost all 50+ of my stones with a masonry\concrete sealer and they come up excellent! Not one problem, the sealer i use is thick so it doesn't soak into the stone and it's super durable! Not to mention it really brings out colors :)

I have a small tin of this stuff (I believe its Resin based)
Wet Look Paving Sealer: Waterproofing: Crommelin (I don't know if this is Australian only or not)

http://www.bunnings.com.au/sealer-cr...9-001_p0960076

I couldn't say for sure if all concrete sealer would be ok, so if it was using one for the first time i would still do some testing first. Just make sure it doesn't soak into the stone and just sits on the top layer if you do go down this path. Last thing you would want is 10mm of sealer soaked all around in your stone :)

There was a guy on the forum a few years back who was in the cosmetics/nail polish business. It was a thread on protecting the labels on eschers and what have you. I mentioned that I use a nail polish called "Hard As Nails" to cover escher end labels, and, in a PM, he told me that it was real good stuff as nail polishes go. He said there was an ingredient that they continued to use in that, and in the more expensive clear polishes, that they had discontinued in the cheaper stuff. I don't recall what said ingredient was ........... anyway ........ :gl:

I've always used Shellac.
Works a charm, protects my hones and looks great doing so!

All good advice, don't make it complicated. Natural hone stones especially Japanese natural hones can sometimes have small fissures or cracks in the sides and bottoms of the hone. To help prevent water from entering and causing further damage, it is possible to seal and reinforce these areas. For severe cracking, tissue paper can be applied similar to papier-mâché.

Not all natural stones require sealing. Lacquering the base is “usually” not required because it is the sides that absorb water at a faster rate. There are several methods and materials that can be used to seal stones, labels and stamps. Traditional Japanese would use Urushi Lacquer which can be harmful if proper precautions are not followed during application. l

For this demonstration water based clear acrylic varnish will be used. This material is non-toxic and dries in 30 minutes. 3 coats will be applied to the sides of the stone only. To prevent the top and bottom of the stone from being contaminated with lacquer the stone will be masked off. Painter’s masking tape should be used so no residue is left on the stone.

Tools needed, which are available at most arts and craft stores.
Japanese natural stone (available from a reliable source only)

Fine application brush, WHOLESALE PRICES - ROYAL SOFT GRIP GOLDEN TAKLON ANGULAR BRUSH - ARTIST PAINT BRUSH - SG160-1/2" this type of brush reduces the chance for bubbles to occur.

Clear lacquer https://www.jwetc.com/index.cfm?p=pr...20Step%20Matte

Masking tape FrogTape.com

X-acto knife X-ACTO Cutting Tools & Office Solutions | Pencil Sharpeners and Knives

Also a pedestal, finger nail file, cleaning brush, cup of water to keep paint brush in and paper towel for any mess etc..

Step one
Use water and a soft bristle brush to clean the stone of any loose particles of dust or dried slurry. Allow the stone to dry for 24 hours prior to lacquer application.

Step two
Mask off areas not to be coated with lacquer. Trim excess masking tape so edges are clean and straight.

Step Three
Dip the tip of the brush into the lacquer to control the amount on the brush. Apply lacquer to the clean surface with thin even coats. Go slowly to reduce the chance for bubbles to form. Avoid shaking bottle to eliminate chance for bubbles. Work bristles into cracks and crevices to assure coverage.
Allow to dry cure and repeat.

Three coats are generally enough to seal and protect the stone. Once the last coat is cured, remove the masking tape and allow the lacquer to continue curing for 24 hrs. Re-bevel the top of your stone with a finger nail file or DMT plate if any excess lacquer has dried above the level surface. Enjoy your stone. Hope this helps.

basic tools
http://i.imgur.com/IgGEkN5.jpg

clean the stone
http://i.imgur.com/18BKqza.jpg

mask off area to protect stone
http://i.imgur.com/2Ccszpx.jpg

trim off excess tape
http://i.imgur.com/KuTmf1j.jpg

pedestal to rest stone on top of while it cures.. easier to pick up
http://i.imgur.com/rhHESzL.jpg

more pics

Sides are sealed and cured
http://i.imgur.com/rGOs4rU.jpg

peel off masking once cured

http://i.imgur.com/prkcPag.jpg

enjoy your stone
http://i.imgur.com/3lkRAsr.jpg

In my opinion it is not necessary to mask out the honing surface. Just apply the laquer as close as you want and if you spalah a bit of laquer on top ot is very easily removed with a atoma when you lap the stone again.