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    Frameback Aficionado heavydutysg135's Avatar
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    Default Question about Over-Honing

    After watching Lynn's DVD several times and reading as many articles as I can, the concept of over-honing still confuses me. I understand that an over-honed edge will pass over whiskers without cutting them but I don't really understand what is going on with the blade. Is an overhoned edge the same thing as a wire edge or burr? Does this mean that the edge is too long and brittle or is this something different?

    Another thing that confuses me is the fact that Lynn says that he fixes a wire edge (over-honed?) by going back to the 4K side of the Norton. How can doing more honing fix a problem that was caused by too much honing in the first place?

    I am thinking that over-honing may have to do with too many passes with a finishing type stone or paste which would cause the edge to become too weak or drawn out to a wire. The course stones like a 4K Norton can cause excessive wear to the metal of the razor but it may not be fine enough to cause the wire edge (it would in fact remove it and start over with the finishing). Is this thinking correct or flawed?

    If this thinking is correct then it would seem that when using courser stones it is important not to do too many strokes because it would cause excessive and unnecessary wear on the blade; and when using the finishing stones and pastes it is important not to do too many strokes because it would cause an over-honed and/or wire edge. Is this the concept behind the pyramid method?

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    Member AFDavis11's Avatar
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    Addressing your questions in order. An overhoned edge is, as you probably suspect, an edge that is torn up by trying to make it too thin from honing. Once you tear up the edge it crumbles all up. Its no longer a bevel its just a mess of crushed up steel. Its kinda like if you were trying to grate some cheese into a sharp point and all at once the tip broke off and you had just a hunk of chesse in your hand.

    Returning to the 4K allows you not only to tear off the remnants but begin reforming the bevel. It works very well.

    I prefer to back hone myself.

    It is one of the driving ideas behind pyramiding, along with a few other simply concepts. The ratio of strokes is great to get a bevel and smooth it out. 4K=bevel, 8k=smoothing

    I don't have any personal experience with a wire edge. I don't know how its created and have never witnessed one, but I hone differently than most people. I may have had a wire edge but never saw one in the microscope. What I usually see are little "stars" from over honing. These are little crater/cuts in the edge where your pretty and smooth bevel once existed.

    I find it hard to overhone if you use a high grit and a slow hone, but thats just me. I used to overhone all the time when pyramiding, so it can be done. All you have to do is make the bevel too thin and it crumbles from the next stroke.
    Last edited by AFDavis11; 03-02-2007 at 06:29 PM.

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    Frameback Aficionado heavydutysg135's Avatar
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    I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. Your explanations definately make a lot sense and the cheese analogy made me smile . Do you think that it is more difficult to get an over-honed edge with pasted strops than with polishing stones since the plade is being dragged rather than being pushed through the abbrasive medium? Also would someone be able to explain exactly what a wire edge is at the blade level if it is different than the over-honed edge.

    Thanks

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    Member AFDavis11's Avatar
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    I think your equally able to get overhoned with stones or pastes. With stones you can make corrections easier. Your grinding down the bevel so it doesn't matter too much, except most people use very high grit pastes. A few years ago, when I was really into pastes as low as 4k I used to think that it was easier to overhone with pastes because I was attacking the bevel from behind and it seemed to lose strength/support like if you pulled a single cheerleader from the base of a big pyramid (there is another analogy for you). Your tearing at the bevel from the opposing direction.

    Now I think its just equal stones/pastes whatever, too much honing is too much honing.

    A wire edge is the addition of a rounded crumbled non sharp edge all along the edge where sharpness is supposed to be.

    Someone else will surely jump in later. Since I've never seen one microscopically I'm probably not able to describe it well.

    An overhoned edge, when its really bad (I used to really suck at honing btw) looks like a pretty mountain range under the microscope. Not straight or smooth at all.

    Ok, no more analogies. And my time is pretty cheap! We're all here to help you out.

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    Senior Member nickyspaghetti's Avatar
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    I also have been unsure of the overhoned part of honing for a while.
    Is the feeling of the shave very different from a sharp blade. Often i feel like i making far too many passes on a hone without it getting sharp, but it never gets to the point where it just passes over the hairs and doesn't cut them.
    All of my razors i have are sharp enough to shave my face with, its just a matter of how comfortable it does it. Will an overhoned blade still shave?
    My most comfortable shaves usually come from two specific razors but i still feel that they can be sharper and improved, but i am afraid to hone them any more, because i don't want to overhone and then have to get them to the fairly comfortable stage again.
    I guess when i can afford it then i should buy a shave ready razor so I know what mark i am aiming for, then i will not be worried about overhoning, as i will know when i have reached the properly 'shave ready' stage.
    Nick

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    Member AFDavis11's Avatar
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    Ahhhh well fortunately I have lots of experience shaving with overhoned edges...LOL

    This whole business about them simply not cutting is odd. I have found they do shave ok. It depends on how badly they are overhoned.

    To me they feel like shaving with a shard of glass as opposed to a razor.

    They pass the HHT test like gangbusters though, you have to watch out for that if HHT tests are the only ones you use.

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    Born on the Bayou jaegerhund's Avatar
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    I think this is the best info I've read on this subject yet ----

    Justin

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    Super Shaver xman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heavydutysg135 View Post
    If this thinking is correct then it would seem that when using courser stones it is important not to do too many strokes because it would cause excessive and unnecessary wear on the blade; and when using the finishing stones and pastes it is important not to do too many strokes because it would cause an over-honed and/or wire edge. Is this the concept behind the pyramid method?
    This is exactly right in my experience. Smart thinking.

    I spent a little time intentionally creating an overhoned edge and in my experience;

    1. It doesn't always have a noticeable wire.
    2. It will pass HHT, but with a very obvious 'ting', not the silent deadly and effortless clip that is perfect.
    3. It leaves a terrible rash even with minimal pressure.
    4. It will cut whiskers, but not well. You'll likely want to start using force which will only make the rash worse.

    X

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