I don't like taping the spine.

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I accept that I must tape the spine resetting the bevel on the Chosera 1k but have heard it is possible to transition away from tape on a 3k stone. Next would be a coticule finishing up with a thuringian. How do you make this transition?

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Just as you have described.

1k stone with tape.
3k stone without tape.
Coticule
Thuringian

I don't think this is the most efficient use of time, or the most effective idea for protecting the spine. But it's not relevant to your question. If you're new to honing, then this isn't even something you need to be thinking about. Just tape everything all the time(if spine wear is your concern) until you figure out how often you'll need to "refresh", and how effectively you can sharpen a razor.

Generally speaking, I never tape unless I have breadknifed a blade. If you have a blade in decent shape, if you're taking a considerable amount off the spine to correct an edge... you are doing something drastically wrong lol!

That's my two cents anyway. I am pretty sure every blade I have will still look great and be in working order for my son when he becomes of age - he's three :).

Pretty much what Glen said.

In response to the earlier question,"Why tape at all if you're only doing it on the first grit?"

The only reason I use tape on the 1K is because I have had an instance or two where I've set the bevel without it and the gritty swarf was sufficient enough to leave a scratch or two just below the normal area of spine contact. So, although the spine-sides themselves got polished out on subsequent finer grits, those scratch had to polished out with compounds.

On the other hand, when I apply tape to the spine it drapes far enough down the sides to protect those areas. Once I move off the 1k diamond plate onto the other stones I find it not to be an issue so - purely out of laziness - bye bye tape.

To tape or not to tape, that is the question.

It would seem to me that the scratches made by the bevel setter on the spine would be sequentially removed as you move to finer grits.

When you refine the edge you are also refining the spine.

I think if you tape for the bevel setter and then remove the tape, hone on your 3K or whatever, the amount of spine wear incured is the same as you would have if you left the tape off to begin with.

Having said that as gssixgun has said, it would not take long to reset the bevel on the 3K stone.

As a side you should calculate your bevel angle before you decide to tape or not to tape.

I gotta put my 2¢ in here. OP I think you got your answer. If you are still unclear then re-read glens post. It couldn't get much clearer than that. Best of luck and let us know what you did/learned. :)

Heck, I don't even change the tape from 1K, 3K, 8K, 12K and ZG anymore and it seems to work just fine. In the end either tape the spine and save wear on it or don't tape it and have some wear on it.

Bob

I don't use tape at all, I just find it easier. I have never worried about getting the spine all scratched up. The only exception is my SRP custom, it is one of my two razors I got brand new, all the rest of them had hone wear when I got them so I'm not to worried about it.

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Originally Posted by Ruger

I think if you tape for the bevel setter and then remove the tape, hone on your 3K or whatever, the amount of spine wear incured is the same as you would have if you left the tape off to begin with.

As a side you should calculate your bevel angle before you decide to tape or not to tape.

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As respectfully and politely as possible...

Neither of these statements are correct.

Spine wear occurs only during the time the steel is in direct contact with the stone. Tape blocks that wear. During bevel setting, you are often removing a significant amount of steel from the edge to reveal an unblemished edge. Only at that point is it necessary for the "correct" (if you want it) untaped bevel angle to be made. If the tape is removed at that point, it will only take a few 1k strokes to remove the shoulder of the bevel to form the untaped bevel. You may have needed 100--200 strokes to get the edge right and it might only take 10 more to get the bevel angle right. So do you want 200 strokes of spine wear or only 10?

Tape only slightly alters the angle. No calculation needs to be involved in the decision of whether or not to tape.

I only tape the spine with my Hart. I tried without tape but couldn't get the edge I wanted. I don't use tape on any of my other razors.

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Originally Posted by Chugach68

I only tape the spine with my Hart. I tried without tape but couldn't get the edge I wanted. I don't use tape on any of my other razors.

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Is yours one of the early Harts ? The new ones hone up just fine without tape.