Ice Bear 10,000 Grit Waterstone

Thanks oz,
My technique seems OK when I use the clay based king in the 6k, getting an edge then even though I use little presure after the 10K superstone the keeness has deserted me. I get there using slurries and only a super light stroke. My logic of the Ice Bear 205 x 25 x 75 10K is that it hopefully will provide a smoother honing experience. Mate if you have any idea of what I'm doing wrong with the nani, go for it. My issue I think is pressure? I try so hard not to put any pressure on the higher grits. I'm learning! (The ice bear comes with a nagura stone)

And in fairness to myself, I have 8 razors in the rotation and the only problem razor is a new age Giessen & Forstoff. that wouldn't cut butter. So to simply put the whole deficiency down to poor technique is a stretch. Never the less, I'm keen to improve the technique. THE 10k icebear hone has enormous wraps. Who knows I may get by without any blood loss....lol. I do, however like the clay based hones. Funny you never hear them advertised (Ice bear) They are more expensive than a naniwa 10k SS, but little info is available.

Cheers Bob

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Originally Posted by bobski

Then I go to the 8k to polish, and supposedly the 10k to finish the perfect edge. Not so for me with the Naniwa SS 10k, This problem is 75% poor technique, but if the clay based Ice Bear can give me that extra 25% well I'll give it a go. The Ice Bear 10 K comes with a nagura stone too, so....I'll report the results when I get them. Cheers, Bob

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I'm sorry for highjacking this thread since it is focussed on the Ice Bear hone, but I'd still like to get to the bottom of the Superstone 10k problem. If you are having a difficulty with this hone, I'm not sure buying another hone will solve it entirely.

How many strokes, on average, are you doing on the 8k and 10k hones?

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Originally Posted by bobski

And in fairness to myself, I have 8 razors in the rotation and the only problem razor is a new age Giessen & Forstoff. that wouldn't cut butter.

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Well that tells me a lot.
Commonly when people have trouble at higher grits the bevel is not set properly. On a new G&F that is a given unless you really put in a lot of effort. You can do it on 1k but it does take time. I have resorted to a 320 grit stone in the past but there need be no mystery about it. Once you know what your looking at you can see thru a loupe if the 2 sides meet or not. I'd bet London to brick yours don't if it "won't cut butter".

Oz, my reason for getting the clay based stone, was that I used a 6k clay (King) during a honing of a different razor (Not the G & F) and found a marked improvement in the quality of the bevel, hence the 8K gave me a nice shaver. So I thought, rightly or wrongly that given the 6k clay stone did such a good job, I'd look for a stone comparable to it. There are many reasons, I understand that put logic ahead of what I'm saying. But at the very least I've acquired a new softer well respected waterstone that if I can get it going my way, well and good. So I'll test this stone for touch ups on a couple of my collection. (Bear in mind that 6 of my 8 razor collection shave great, with one pro honed and the others by me, so I'm not far at least from getting things right. Other than that mate I plead HAD! I'll only improve by practice, so I study the forums & videos and do my best.

Cheers Bob

I get a good bevel after the 1k-4k and then the 6k king. Then no more than 8 to 10 light pressure on the 8k and the same on the 10. I try to barely have any pressure, but I concede that my lack of experience leads to inconsistency as far as the number of strokes and the pressure needed. Over all though, most of my results are OK. I have serious issues trying to get a shaveable edge on the G & F. I just like the feel of the softer clay stone, seems to get me to the right place. No scientific reason I guess, but whatever works....

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Originally Posted by bobski

I get a good bevel after the 1k-4k and then the 6k king. Seeing how the razor shaves at those intervals will tell you a lot. Don't expect perfect comfort but it should shave closely.
Then no more than 8 to 10 light pressure on the 8k and the same on the 10. I try to barely have any pressure, but I concede that my lack of experience leads to inconsistency as far as the number of strokes and the pressure needed. I don't use a fixed count but I know I would do more than that. There's a slim chance you're not doing enough at end stages.

Over all though, most of my results are OK. I have serious issues trying to get a shaveable edge on the G & F. I just like the feel of the softer clay stone, seems to get me to the right place. No scientific reason I guess, but whatever works.... Softer stones simply allow slightly more user error. The G&F like all razors needs a proper bevel set & a proper finish. The bevel is crucial on those as it is non existent from the factory.

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If you get no joy send it to me so I can assess what's happening & I can post m'scope pics that may help. Just cost you postage.
I did one on Friday & had to go back to finishing stones 2-3x for it to be acceptable so they can be a challenge.

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Originally Posted by onimaru55

If you get no joy send it to me so I can assess what's happening & I can post m'scope pics that may help. Just cost you postage.
I did one on Friday & had to go back to finishing stones 2-3x for it to be acceptable so they can be a challenge.

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I've looked at every opinion going, probably wasted money. But the thumb pad test I did on the new Giesen & Forstoff. (Notably difficult to bevel set by experienced men), I was thrilled when I later shaved with it following honing up on the 8k hone. Then the Ice Bear 10k. I'm not suggesting anything other than my technique has progressed, and the softer clay based Ice Bear 10k, helping a less experienced honer. But I had a shave with the $100 US G & F, that was a happy moment for me. If I can coax an edge on a notoriously hard to hone razor, has given me so much confidence. Havachat45 of this site, honed my 1st razor and did a superb job, which I judged all others by, told me the G & F was hard to get an edge on, but once you got there it would hold the edge....so far so good! I feel like a kid with a box of lollies. Once again gentlemen thank you for you counsel. Bob

Different strokes for different folks I guess, but I will be sticking to the naniwa stones. Personally I think they are a class above the clay based stones. I'm glad you are sorted and happy :)

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Originally Posted by mike1011

Different strokes for different folks I guess, but I will be sticking to the naniwa stones. Personally I think they are a class above the clay based stones. I'm glad you are sorted and happy :)

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Our moderator downunder here onimaru55, describes the softer nature of of the clay based stones and how they can be easier for starters. I agree with him, but I will gain more experience and no doubt the naniwa 10k will be a good stone for me in the long run. The Icebear, I'd describe as luxurious, 205 x 25 x 75 on a sturdy wooden base and you get a nagura stone as well. I like a little slurry so that helps me too. So, the icebear is working for me at the moment, thats not to exclude the nani. But they seem hard as is possible, so when I used the King 6k (Clay base) it was smooth, and got me a bevel that the 8k could enhance, thus the progression to the Icebear, and I like it. Even if it needs more often truing it's a 25 m deep stone and most certainly will outlive a 10mm. I'll keep the commentary up, but at the moment of my 9 razors, there is not one I'd not shave with, equaling happiness for a person with 7 or 8 months on the stones.
Cheers, Bob