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welli honed my razor and i doshave with it nd it shaves ok, that being said.... I bought a 60x micro and i always knew the heel was more dull than the toe but now i can see why. on one side of razor the bevel is perfect from bottom of the bevel to the top on the other side the bevel onthe last 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch doesent go all the way to the tip.... just onverry last part of heel.... should i fix this and by what method would you recomend....
Loupe's are great for edge inspections.
Sounds like you need to work the. Heel more.
Circles and rolling Xs,as well as some heel forward focus on just the heel will eventually bring it in. If the heel profile is good and you are staying off the shoulder.
Pics always help if you can snap one.
Cheers.
The big question is " why did you miss it the first time? Okay you didn't have a loupe :<0) If you want to fix it you have to go back to bevel set stage and concentrate on making that section blend in to the rest of the bevel. Maybe you didn't start you pass with the heel far enough or long enough on the hone. Maybe it is warped or due to excessive hone wear ? Without seeing everything we can only guess why. Some honing gymnastics are in order on your part. Maybe some circles on that area with x strokes to blend it back into the bevel you have ?
Permanent marker on the bevel, find the stroke that removes it along the entire razor, then progress.
Strokes for honing a razor - Straight Razor Place Library
Do you shave with that last 3/8" of the heel?
If not, then I would just leave it be. If you do shave that far on the heel, or if you just plain want to figure it out, then you do need to go back to the bevel set and figure out a stroke that gets the job done. You have the scope now so you need not bother with the marker test.
I do not shave that far down on the heel but I do want get it right. I am guessing i was riding the heal on my stroke this being my first hone project. it is a cheap razor that i groung the stableizer down on, but i was wondering should i focus on that spot alone then when the bevel matches there should I then reset the bevel or just start my x stroke and give it 50 more laps
Ah! well that changes everything! we are talking about a gold dollar/Sweeney todd razor here?Quote:
Originally Posted by admvalentine
When you are learning to hone it is a good idea to start with a razor that has no issues. There are tons of very nice vintage blades that sell in the classifieds often. Start with a good blade, learn the basics, then advance to geometrically challenged blades.
yep gold dollarQuote:
Originally Posted by Martin103
OK, in that case you may have another issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by admvalentine
Gold dollars are infamous for having stabilizers that get in the way of honing, but their grinding can also suck. Among the ones that I have honed, I have seen that the area near the heel is ground less, and so the thickness of the blade (the distance between the two faces of the blade) is thicker. Therefore it needs much more honing than the rest of the blade.
If you can consider the geometry involved, you will realize that a fully set bevel in that thicker area of the blade will be wider than the rest of bevel.
What stone are you using to bevel set?
Some pics of the razor, sounds like you did not grind enough and the heel is off the hone.
My guess is that tape shims are needed under the spline tape. Maybe mrsell63, who is a master at this, will chime in.
Tape shims?
Please explain this procedure.
Small pieces of tape are only applied to particular regions of the spine to lift the spine only in that area.
Right, but how does that fix a stabilizer that is dragging on the stone?
I did not say it would, but only answered your question of what a tape shim is. However, I figure somewhere between 12 and 17 layers should clear that stabilizer!
wow didnt even think of this, it wont fix a stabilizer that is dragging but mine is not dragging because it doesent have one anymore lol . it wii however allow me to grind more off the back than the front right.
12 to 17 layers lmao
Yeap the GD need geometry fixing . I have 2 mine and i have repair and hone 3 for a frends . The stabiliser must be grind with the Dremel to almost 0 , and it has other geometrical issues .The intresting is that there is no 2 razors that are the same shape - original .
After 30 min work it gets geometrical shape 90 % close to the true shape . It hone very well , take very sharp edge , but do not hold the edge , even to the left side ot the face during a shave . Needs a regular touch up . But for the prise is unbeatable razor for beginers , to learn with it to shave and to hone , and to maintain the razors fragile edge - very sharp , but flys away very easy .
Im sorry but that just bad advise, a beginner must learn how to shave and strop first, and not playing with a razor that has geometry problems and wont hold an edge, because he has no idea of what wrong, whether its is shaving technique, or stropping, or the edge of the razor.Quote:
Originally Posted by RusenBG
oh boy , a gold dollar thread lol:y
Youre right , but he already has it and he is in the problem , so for 10 bucs he can grind , hone , rehone and broke it with pleasure .Quote:
Im sorry but that just bad advise, a beginner must learn how to shave and strop first, and not playing with a razor that has geometry problems and wont hold an edge, because he has no idea of what wrong, whether its is shaving technique, or stropping, or the edge of the razor.
I began very briefly as a newbe and i read lot of info first ,so i was enjoyng with this razor to learn and to create .
But for a newbe as a 2 hours newbe , that have no clue wats the real thing i agree that is good to began with a something old , but right in a geometry .
Buy the way i have few elite Solingen razors ,that have a small geometry issues , but that is a serious problem with the honing and puting the right edje on them. Only the X stroke and a diferent hones that i have worked in this situation .
I dont want to give a bad advise , youre right that the new users have to began with something non problematic . I just whant to say that he cat take advantage of this situation buy enjoyng him self to grind the razor and to do evrythind he wants to learn what to do and what does not work.
I use them for testing and edge exchanges, and a lot of them have had the same problem at the heel. On the show side the angle set by the spine doesn't let the hone hit the apex of the edge, initially by a good part of the bevel width and as much as about 3/16 up the edge. Not all but many.
You may well have to grind away more of the width than you'd like to to fix it.
It isn't the stabilizer doing this on the ones I have, it's a spine-edge geometry thing, the way it's ground at the heel on one side, or a warp/twist at the last 1/4" or so?
They're not worth it from the time you have to invest IMO. I usually have 3-4 hours in one that's initially pretty good, but they're part of the honing hobby not the shaving hobby.
Cheers, Steve
Myself have honed probably 100 gold dollars ..and my man bill3152 is like the gold dollar guru.. Listen try rolling x strokes.. Without even putting a dremel to the heel or toe.. I think u will cover the entire edge.. If not grind down the heel and toe you should be fine..if you insist on the gd the other shaving forum B and B has entire thread dedicated to this