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Thread: you bevel setting experts.....

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    Senior Member admvalentine's Avatar
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    Default you bevel setting experts.....

    welli honed my razor and i doshave with it nd it shaves ok, that being said.... I bought a 60x micro and i always knew the heel was more dull than the toe but now i can see why. on one side of razor the bevel is perfect from bottom of the bevel to the top on the other side the bevel onthe last 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch doesent go all the way to the tip.... just onverry last part of heel.... should i fix this and by what method would you recomend....

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    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    Loupe's are great for edge inspections.
    Sounds like you need to work the. Heel more.
    Circles and rolling Xs,as well as some heel forward focus on just the heel will eventually bring it in. If the heel profile is good and you are staying off the shoulder.
    Pics always help if you can snap one.
    Cheers.
    Last edited by MikeB52; 02-01-2015 at 02:50 PM.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth 10Pups's Avatar
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    The big question is " why did you miss it the first time? Okay you didn't have a loupe :<0) If you want to fix it you have to go back to bevel set stage and concentrate on making that section blend in to the rest of the bevel. Maybe you didn't start you pass with the heel far enough or long enough on the hone. Maybe it is warped or due to excessive hone wear ? Without seeing everything we can only guess why. Some honing gymnastics are in order on your part. Maybe some circles on that area with x strokes to blend it back into the bevel you have ?
    Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.

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    Historically Inquisitive Martin103's Avatar
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    Permanent marker on the bevel, find the stroke that removes it along the entire razor, then progress.

    Strokes for honing a razor - Straight Razor Place Library

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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Do you shave with that last 3/8" of the heel?

    If not, then I would just leave it be. If you do shave that far on the heel, or if you just plain want to figure it out, then you do need to go back to the bevel set and figure out a stroke that gets the job done. You have the scope now so you need not bother with the marker test.
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    Senior Member admvalentine's Avatar
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    I do not shave that far down on the heel but I do want get it right. I am guessing i was riding the heal on my stroke this being my first hone project. it is a cheap razor that i groung the stableizer down on, but i was wondering should i focus on that spot alone then when the bevel matches there should I then reset the bevel or just start my x stroke and give it 50 more laps

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    Historically Inquisitive Martin103's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by admvalentine View Post
    it is a cheap razor that i groung the stableizer
    Ah! well that changes everything! we are talking about a gold dollar/Sweeney todd razor here?

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    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    When you are learning to hone it is a good idea to start with a razor that has no issues. There are tons of very nice vintage blades that sell in the classifieds often. Start with a good blade, learn the basics, then advance to geometrically challenged blades.
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    Senior Member admvalentine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin103 View Post
    Ah! well that changes everything! we are talking about a gold dollar/Sweeney todd razor here?
    yep gold dollar

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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by admvalentine View Post
    yep gold dollar
    OK, in that case you may have another issue.

    Gold dollars are infamous for having stabilizers that get in the way of honing, but their grinding can also suck. Among the ones that I have honed, I have seen that the area near the heel is ground less, and so the thickness of the blade (the distance between the two faces of the blade) is thicker. Therefore it needs much more honing than the rest of the blade.

    If you can consider the geometry involved, you will realize that a fully set bevel in that thicker area of the blade will be wider than the rest of bevel.

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