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03-21-2015, 06:19 PM #1
- Join Date
- Nov 2013
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- 758
Thanked: 104Honing/lapping use a DMT325 or an Atoma 400
I bought a Gokumyo 20k, and when out of the box needed a good lapping. I put a DMT325 on it to tidy it up, but scratched it too much IMHO.I mellowed the DMT by doing knives on it to knock the top off the plate. I was honing the Gokumyo 20k and really didn't want to stuff it up. So I bought an Atoma 400.
Can anyone add light to the problems I have outlined? I do firmly believe the Gok 20 should be grid lapped well prior to use. It may take longer than a few figure 8's.
Also, what process if any does the ATOMA 400 require (It's yet to arrive)
Cheers Bob
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03-21-2015, 07:41 PM #2The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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The Following User Says Thank You to onimaru55 For This Useful Post:
bobski (03-21-2015)
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03-21-2015, 08:53 PM #3
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- Nov 2013
- Posts
- 758
Thanked: 104Thanks Oz,
I do believe your right about the well worn dmt. I like the surface of what is a $300 stone to look flat and mirror like. When I first used the new DMT325 prior to 'mellowing' I was annoyed, but following good advice got things clicking. Bear in mind the atoma 400 is yet to arrive, I'll be leaving the stones alone for a week or so.
Once again Oz, thankyou, sir.
Regards Bob
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03-21-2015, 10:38 PM #4
I also concur, not about the Atoma or the 20k because I have no clue / experience but about the worn dmt giving a nice finish. I have a DMT DIA-FLAT Lapping Plate and it leaves the surface of my hones with a distinct feeling. I can use my DMT C to make it smoother but I don't feel the need to as I like the feeling it leaves. Let's me read the feedback easier I find. None of my synthetics break 8k though. I'm sure if I had a 20k I would be using the worn dmt to make the surface ultimately smooth.
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03-21-2015, 11:17 PM #5
I find that my DMT 325 or whatever it is leaves scratches in harder stones. Those scratches can be worked out by rubbing the scratched hone with some other hone. A barber hone is great for this purpose. You could also use wet/dry sandpaper, the slurry the diamond hone generated, lapping grit, any other hone, etc.
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03-21-2015, 11:31 PM #6
I haven't had the 400, but I've got the Atoma 1200, and the DMT 325. The Atoma eats through everything like Grant took Richmond. You can buy 3 DMT 325s for the price of one Atoma, but if it lasts it will be worth every penny.
I suspect the 400 will be similar to the 325, since the grits are so close. The 1200 leaves some scratches too. Nothing I worry about. Before I had the 1200 all I ever used was a 325 and the hones got flat, the razors got sharp.Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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03-22-2015, 12:42 AM #7
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Diamond Bar, CA
- Posts
- 6,553
Thanked: 3215I really don’t think it matters, if you finish on a stone or stones or just use the lapping/cleaning 1/3K stone supplied. It is a very hard stone.
I lapped mine on a worn,140 plate to flat, had a small dip in the middle so remove a bit of the face, then finished with, 300, 600 and 1200 plates, it progressed quickly, not many laps at all, once flat.
Then I smoothed the face with the 1&3k supplied stone.
I use a small translucent to clean and refresh the face, with good results.
All probably over-kill... but then... so is buying one...
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The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
bobski (03-24-2015)
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03-22-2015, 12:54 AM #8
I believe I read one of your posts you posted a couple years back when you said that you knew a honemeister that preferred the feel of a DMT XXC for lapping his stones. It might have been you that posted it. Anyways I have always been curious as to the finish of the hone and if it would effect the edge.