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i just shaved with this razor and it felt like it did fine but how does it look? I know I just recently made a thread with just one picture after the 15k... I have the Shapton Pro series stones let me know if you can see something I can work on... Or if I should have stood one a stone longer and not progessed yet...
AFTER THE 1k
Attachment 210336
AFTER THE 2k
Attachment 210337
AFTER THE 5k
Attachment 210338
AFTER THE 8k
Attachment 210339
AFTER THE 15k
Attachment 210340
I can see micro chips along the edge. Maybe try setting the bevel with less pressure ?
I'd lightly drag the edge on the stone and start from scratch.
I think that you needed a little bit more work at the 5k/8k level.
Approximately how many strokes did you do on the 8 and 15 k?
Also, did you tape the spine? If so, at what stages did you change tape?
Your bevel set
Those chips and that rough edge came back to haunt you at the end as you progressed through
The 2k and 5k looked pretty good then the errors from the bevel set became evident as you hit the 8k
That edge should have been "Killed" after the first bevel set at 1k then gently reset after that before progressing farther, to make sure that all the "Tooth" was gone ..
You might need to use a little pressure to set some bevels but you have to make sure that when you do that, to make sure to get rid of all those deep scratches and micro-teeth BEFORE you start climbing the honing ladder...
So first, if you are going to do a comparison, to chart progress, photograph the same spot on the bevel, using the same scope/camera angle each time. Make a reference mark on the bevel and the spine, with a sharpie and align the camera to the same spot each time. Then you can see if you are making progress.
Your edge is chipped with deep 1k stria and the edge never straightens out. If you enlarge the photos, you can easily see the stria leading straight to each chip on the edge.
You are not removing the deep 1k stria.
As said you are probably, not doing enough laps on each stone. Begin each stone with a set of 20 circles to remove the previous stria, then do X laps to lay down a new stria pattern. Do not use a lot of pressure especially on the 1K
Joint the edge and go back to the 5k and see if you can remove all the 1k stria and re-set the bevel, start with 20 circles or side honing.
Do tape the spine, no need to wear the spine needlessly.
Hi Glen - when you say, "killed" after the first bevel set at 1k, then gently reset before progressing further....do you mean a bevel set, then "kill" the edge on the rim of a glass for instance, and the bevel set again on the 1k?Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phrank
Yes - also called Downstroking, Jointing, Joining, and probably a few others
I prefer the corner of the hone, or for a less drastic way a couple of TNTs
Then you would use very light controlled (finishing) strokes on the 1k to GENTLY bring back the edge and leave very shallow 1k Stria that is easily removed as you climb the ladder...
One of the biggest mistakes (Pet Peeve of mine) we make when explaining honing is the failure to differentiate between Edge Restoration and Honing..
I think we confuse so many new honers with that :(
Edit:
Lets also realize that we have little perspective as to any other issues with the razor in this thread
We can't really tell the bevel size nor can we see the spine, so we are simply answering the issues from the pics that we can see...
Thanks Glen - sitting here feeling blue - at the driver exam centre now - my son is doing his learners permit - they grow up so quickly.
So - kill the edge then lightly bring the edge back on the 1k....will do.
Yeah this is a daily thing for me since I've started honing... I'll get the edge honed in like I did, take my time and try and shave with it... I was trying to post pictures just to see how I'm progressing and if I still need work... So yes i will dull her out tonight when the kids go to sleep and start over lolQuote:
Originally Posted by JOB15
No tape though the entire progression, I bought two GD to learn how to hone with them and it's really hard to know exactly how many strokes I was doing.... I would look under the scope and when it was acceptable I moved on...Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
GAAAAAHHHHHHhhhhhhh, RUN FOR THE HILLS, HE SAID THE CURSE WORDS, WERE ALL GONNA.... I don't know, maybe pass out, have a conniption.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dafonz6987
Yeah I notice that when I progress these chips start coming out of no where, so what your saying is that the 1k bevel setting was put properly done which resulted in my edge chipping up in the progression? My thought in this whole process is that each grit has its own level of "toothyness" and what you had to do was make it as even as possible... So what your saying is I need to get rid of all of that at the 1k level before I progress? Otherwise it's going to come back and bite me in the ass when I get to finishing?Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Do a number of swirl patterns with each progression to remove the stria from the previous grit. Glen has several videos that show this. I used to be against using tap as well but after trying it I haven't gone back to NOT using it. Two or three layers during the bevel set and then drop back to one for final hone.
Your doing pretty good.
This was what I was achieving when I first started.
At least its to the edge, in my defence ;)
Attachment 210361
Hahaha yeah I have waaaay better razors now but I refuse to practice with them... Once I get my honing down then I'll worry about other razorsQuote:
Originally Posted by guitstik
The biggest problem with the GD's is the inconsistent quality. So you have no idea if the problems you are experiencing are the result of your inexperience or the quality (or lack there of) of the metal in the razor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dafonz6987
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dafonz6987
You have given us much more info since the first post..
This is also a pet peeve of mine :) People ask a question then as the full story comes out the answers change, which again make threads travel into the useless :(
So lets start at where we are now
GDGD Razor
No tape
That has an issue right there that was not in the first part of this thread ...
The spines on GDGD's are notoriously not even, nor are the grinds, This is NOT my opinion, this is easily proved with using a Micrometer on either..
We are assuming that you know of the issues with the Heel and have fixed that
So now you have to even up the edge, and bevel, using a 1k and pressure, this is edge restoration NOT honing,,
The bevel needs to be even in height (Think Toothy or Serrated edge) by setting, killing, and resetting, that should accomplish getting the bevel even, then you have to attend to the differences in thickness of the grind and the uneven aspects of the spine, I would try 2 layers or tape to start..
This should take out the "slack"
Now working the edge and bevel should get you to a nice even clean starting point, for "Honing"
Now once you are at that point you can stop all the restoration techniques, and shift to nice light pressure, smooth even strokes to get the bevel clean, even, sharp, and smooth...
If you are still correcting the bevel, you are not honing, and you should not be going above the 1k yet
Getting a shaving edge on the GDGD's are not that hard once you get past the restoration stage, and move to the honing stage..
Keep in mind that the steel simply isn't that good, and that Carbon Popping does happen out of nowhere, and you get a chip out of the edge :( that is simply the nature of the beast... Which is why these are problematic as to being good "Learning" razors, because you have no idea as a beginner if it is the razor or you that is at fault :p
But keep at it, add tape, and see what happens next, that should eliminate many of the issues I am seeing in your pics..
ps: It is kinda funny as I am working through getting two razors through the same stage :)
If you are going to straighten an edge, especially at a low grit, e.g., 1k it is much more efficient to Joint it, (lightly drag on the corner of the stone), so that you are removing the chip and straightening the edge at the same time. Then just bring the bevels together again, once the bevels are flat and the angle is set, which should only take a few X laps.
At high grits, TNT, glass, cork, wood or hard felt will work but, I just use the corner of stone, I am honing on, and rejoin the bevels with lite pressure.
In this case as said, there is still a lot we don’t know. It could be the razor, bevel angle, cell rot, too hard or improper heat treatment, aggressive repair work, Diamond Plates, the stones, (grit, or need lapping) or just too much pressure.
But as the photos show, 1k stria is still visible and clearly chipping the edge at the finish stone, there may be additional issues going on in conjunction.
To the OP, post photos of the razor on both sides, there is a very good chance, the bevels are not even completely on the stones and we are all just spinning our wheels diagnosing your technique when the razor needs repair work, first.
Also, what have you done and what tools did you use to make corrections to the GD, before you began to hone it?
Sorry about my lack of information I guess I don't know the important pieces to add to threads before I post them... I'm just trying to get the honing right on something cheap before I move on to my custom 8/8 quarter hallow from bluesman 7 my ralf aust 6/8 worked spine... They are expensive pieces of art that I just can't set down on a hone with confidence.... I definitely will take out a lot more varibles on my next thread and include if I used tape, mark a specific position on the razor and take a pic of the same section which was a great suggestion thanks Euclid440... I did grind out the problem with the heel with a dremel and set the bevel before with bluesman at the micromeet... I'll set the bevel, kill my edge and set it again which is really cool idea thanks for that... I'm about to start working on it right now as the kids have gone to sleep and now I have some uninterrupted time to myself...Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Perfect
Yeah always the more info you give us, the better we can actually help you :)
I really think as soon as you get a solid bevel set it will all come together for ya
Good luck
Yes, it really does help know as much information about what you are working on, (some razors have specific issues), what you have done and how, as much as a specific problem.
One of the reasons we do not recommend the Gold Dollar and it’s kin, as a razor to learn to hone on, is that they must be repaired, before you can hone them. A new guy usually causes more issues making the repairs, using low grit stones, diamond plates and way too much pressure that cause even more issues down the road.
This, I am sure is part of your problem, but it can all be fixed. Trust me you are not alone and hundreds of guy have been following this thread and many more will read it in the years to come.
Photos of the razor always help, often we can see issues that the OP is unaware of.
Once the bevels are flat and the angle is set, it can be reset quickly, take your time, joint the edge and use lite pressure to polish out 1k stria. Once you set a bevel, do some lite laps to reduce the stria land height so you don’t have to spend as much time on the next stone removing deep stria.
