Originally Posted by
jfk742
My 5/8 Aust has a warp. It's not bad but it does need a little bit of a smile to keep the bevels even and in contact with the hone while using a rolling x. I pretty much use a rolling x for when the convex side is down then a 45* stroke straight down the hone on the concave side. The concave side will show you large bevels at toe and heel. The convex side will show you a larger bevel in the middle, all you need to do is modify your strokes to create even bevels. I prefer to do some Japanese strokes with the concave side down, this gives me a guide for when I flip the razor over. I then put a finger on the toe and then the heal and do Japanese strokes to even up the bevels to the middle. I just go back and forth counting strokes to keep the bevels even height wise. Sooner or later it will get there. When it looks good remove your tape get out your sharpie and use whatever strokes match your new even bevels. I'm sure there are faster ways to do it but given the way that razor looks it shouldn't take anything drastic to get them even all the way across and from side to side. Just remember the most important thing is that you set the bevel everything after that is aesthetics.
I'm glad you made a post, when I finally figured it out I ground at least a 1/16" off my RA.
on another note if you want a straight edge you'll need to bend it until the edge is straight. Don't do this you will almost inevitably snap it. No amount of grinding the spine will straighten a warped edge. As was seen recently in another thread a guy ground the hell out of a really nice razor trying to fix a problem that didn't exist in spine. This is problem that needs to be fixed by modifying your stroke not grinding a spine or bending a razor. As you hone more razors it is likely you will have many more that are warped then straight. In my own collection I have about 85% warped blades that are at least a little warped, i.e. Enough to have to use some amount of rolling x stroke.