Has anyone settled on whether or not to "breadknife"a razors edge to remove a chip?
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Has anyone settled on whether or not to "breadknife"a razors edge to remove a chip?
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I would hold the blade at a 45° angle and remove the chip on a 300 grit stone. Then reset the bevel and ho e it up. That would be the quickest way to remove it with the least amount of metal removal.
^^^^^Yup.
I would add that if you plan on doing any clean-up of the blade, do it before the edge repair. Also, as you get closer to the completion of the chip removal, lower the angle more so that by the time the chip is gone the spine is on the hone.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...l-setting.html
How and Why :)
Thanks Glen. Sounds like the best way to approach this.....
How, you do it, really does not matter much, Bread knife, High angle honing or filing with diamond plate or file, spine on the bench. The exact same amount of metal has to be removed.
If you bread knife on a diamond plate or low grit stone, a few high angle laps will set the angle closer to the bevel angle and reduce your bevel set honing, a bit.
Your spine looks to be curved.
You might want to take a tracing of the blade onto a piece of cardboard and take some measurements from the spine to the edge in 3 or 4 spots to see if you want to reproduce the curve on the edge to match the spine.
Experiment with the template and try tracing the spine curve onto the edge to see what looks best, before you remove any material. Black sharpie ink will give you a good idea of what it will look like.
Simply grinding the edge straight is not always the best course, just a small amount of metal removed from the wrong place, can dramatically affect the look of the blade.
A little planning and experimentation can save you some metal.
I'd hit it as close to 90 degrees as I could. That would be the most expedient way to get to the low part of that chip, sawing it back and forth heel to toe as gssixgun advised in his thread for the same reasons. Just in case there's a crack wanting to start there somewheres that you haven't spotted yet. Like Euclid says, the same amount of metal has to go no matter what method you use.
Far as the edge contour goes, I like mine to closely follow the spine. So this is a perfect opportunity to break out the calipers and make sure it's as close as you can get it.
Well, here are the results.
Chip Gone.
Cleaned up good, rust gone, no pitting. I don't polish my razors. I try to keep them as close to original as I can. This one required new scales.
I had to even the bevel on both sides because it really didn't have one. Two strokes to one.
It is now very shave ready and I will give it a shot tomorrow.
No Tape from 4k up.
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It looks great. The remaining patina seems just right.
Stupid question but...wouldn't it originally have been polished?
I'm picking up what you're putting down though. The patina gives it character. Hope it shaves as good as it looks!
That looks really great now that it is finished.
Living near Sheffield I would love to get my hands on a W&B but being a novice I just don't know what I am looking for on eBay or other sources for that matter. There are some good looking ones but at some high prices too. I have neither the skills nor the tools to do what you have done here. Hopefully it is something that I will come to in time.
Really nice and I love the patina too it adds real character.
Yes, I know Porl. W&B's are higher than Texas Boots on the bay. I think it's just because they can get the prices they want because of the hype about W&B.Quote:
Originally Posted by Porl
There are other brands just as good and much less costly. I think it started with people looking for a wide bladed wedge. There are none bigger(wider) than the W&Bs'. I am partial to the Tally-Hos' but they are hard to find in decent condition.
Other good blades are
Geo. Savage
John Brown
Thomas Turner
These are all Sheffield steel.
Another favorite is a Preist & Co. also a Sheffield.
Also Don't overlook a Good Blade of Swedish steel. Sometimes the good Japanese razors (western style folders) are of Swedish steel.
The Germans are not to be left out of this discussion with their steel from Solengen ( a superb GRAH & PLUMACHER or Henkels), or the French (Theirs Issard comes to mind).
At any rate, if you must have a W&B you will probably need to do some work on it if you want to keep the cost down. Just be sure the bevel looks straight and narrow and with no chips. most everything else can be dealt with. It's not that hard to learn to repair just be careful, read the forums, and practice.
Be sure the dealer has a good feedback record and will accept returns. If you need some reputable dealers PM me and I will get you some names.
I do have a Dovo and a TI razor, both were bought new and shave ready from a vendor in the UK.Quote:
Originally Posted by dta116
They are both entry level razors but the steel is the same as their others they just have basic plastic scales. The TI has a thicker heavier blade that seems stiffer and I really do prefer that to the full hollow of the Dovo, although the Dovo has an arguably better finish to it.
Thank you so much for the great information too, I will keep an eye out for these other brands too.
Porl, Those I mentioned have more beef in the blades. I am not much of a Dovo fan. I prefer a Wedge style (3/4 hollow) to the thinner hollow ground razors.
I think a 6/8 or wider is more suited for me.
You have a great razor in the TI. They are not entry level razors. Just no frills. If you closed your eyes you could not tell the difference in a $1000 TI and a $100 one (except they don't make a $100 one).
Dave
Dave
I think that so far I am leaning the same way myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by dta116
Thanks again for the encouragement.
Paul.
Hey Paul, thought I would give you something to search for.Quote:
Originally Posted by Porl
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Geo. Savage XX Patent
This is my 2nd favorite razor and I have over 300 and counting.
Check out the non existing bevel. This guy will shave your face (or filet; whichever you prefer).
They just don't make um' like the used to.
Now that is really nice. I am not sure that I will ever get to 300 razors, my wife doesn't see the need for the two I have. On the other hand I never question how many pairs of shoes she has :DQuote:
Originally Posted by dta116
"Shefield steel" is sometimes Swedish in origin as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by dta116
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dannemora_mine
