Felt Or Balsa For CrOx?

[TheLegalRazor]

I use an SRD paddle strop with felt and CrOx to finish after honing and to touchup razors. I know many use balsa for the CrOx. Is there a reason balsa may be superior?

[unit]

It's a matter of technique and preference.

Most compounds can be used on most strops (be they balsa, felt, leather, or cloth) the strop is simply a carrier for the compound. Some like different compositions or firmness, but it generally boils down to preference and what yields the greatest consistency.

[nicknbleeding]

I use leather glued to a board.

[JimmyHAD]

I have a feeling that chrom-ox is better on a surface with some give, like felt or leather. That is the only way I've ever used it. I have also used diamond paste on balsa and that does what it is supposed to do. I just never tried the C O on balsa 'cause it worked well enough on the felt.

[Proinsias]

Works fine for me. Cheap and easy to try. I imagine the balsa will achieve more of a true V shaped bevel and felt, leather or linen slightly more concave.

[unit]

Yes the more give a surface has the more convex it will impart on the bevels. This is critical to remember while contemplating the pressure you use.

I have a growing level of experience with straights and a fairly broad level with other edged tools with finely polished edges. I'd suggest the equivalent polishes can be obtained with a given abrasive regardless of what it is applied to (leather, balsa or other hardwood).

Generally some will migrate away from balsa because it eventually gets mishandled and dented where leather is more forgiving in this regard (as are hardwoods such as oak).

Ideally, I prefer leather mounted on hardwood. But it's just a personal preference. The hanging strip is more "romantic" but requires an additional input (tension) from the user.

There are LOTS of ways to maintain an edge. I'd suggest the one that you enjoy most is the best

[Ryan82]

I just never tried the C O on balsa 'cause it worked well enough on the felt.

That's funny Jimmy, I was thinking the same thing, except the other way around - it's worked well enough for me on balsa lol...

I think the appeal of balsa is that it is harder to duff an edge on a non-flexible surface compared to a hanging strop loaded with paste. And it works well too, I might add. Since I've never used felt myself I'll leave it to those more experienced than myself to comment on both

Yes the more give a surface has the more convex it will impart on the bevels. This is critical to remember while contemplating the pressure you use......

Generally some will migrate away from balsa because it eventually gets mishandled and dented where leather is more forgiving in this regard (as are hardwoods such as oak).

I'm curious as to why you would think this. With a balsa strop a user is using gentle spine-leading strokes, so I'm not sure why it would get dented or be otherwise mishandled?

[JimmyHAD]

That's funny Jimmy, I was thinking the same thing, except the other way around - it's worked well enough for me on balsa lol...

I think the appeal of balsa is that it is harder to duff an edge on a non-flexible surface compared to a hanging strop loaded with paste. And it works well too, I might add. Since I've never used felt myself I'll leave it to those more experienced than myself to comment on both



I'm curious as to why you would think this. With a balsa strop a user is using gentle spine-leading strokes, so I'm not sure why it would get dented or be otherwise mishandled?

I should have mentioned that the only way I've used paste or chrom-ox is on a flat bed with felt for the chrome-ox and with balsa glued to plexiglass for the diamond paste. The balsa stays in the kitchen cabinet with 3 pieces 8x3" glued to the plexi.

I've also got one of those old 4 sided paddles Tony Miller used to make with 3 sides paste on leather and one chrom-ox. Thinking about it I also have a Livi loom strop with soft leather on one side (untreated) and chrom-ox on canvas on the other. I do have an SRD hanging felt with the .05 diamond spray and that will get 'er done.

I went "on a mission" to do it all with hones and untreated hanging strops a couple of years ago so I don't use any of that stuff now. I've got it and I reserve the right to change my mind but for now I'm happy with the nortons ,the y/g escher and an untreated hanging strop to meet my needs.

[tinkersd]

I use Balsa wood for my pastes, Crox, .25Um and .50Um. When not in use I wrap them individualy in cling film[Saran Wrap] and then wrap that in fairly thick bubble wrap. With labels of course. No dings so far, it's just a matter of treating even the most basic tools with respect, even balsa wood pasted strops.

As I"m sure you all do, of course!!

JMHO, that is, YMMV.

[unit]

That's funny Jimmy, I was thinking the same thing, except the other way around - it's worked well enough for me on balsa lol...

I think the appeal of balsa is that it is harder to duff an edge on a non-flexible surface compared to a hanging strop loaded with paste. And it works well too, I might add. Since I've never used felt myself I'll leave it to those more experienced than myself to comment on both



I'm curious as to why you would think this. With a balsa strop a user is using gentle spine-leading strokes, so I'm not sure why it would get dented or be otherwise mishandled?

I'm speaking of mishandling when not in use as a strop. Balsa makes a great strop, but it requires a bit more care for storage because it is soft. In use, I think it is among the easiest to use perhaps because the light delicate feel seems to remind the user to be gentle

I have dinged many chunks of balsa when traveling. Perhaps some guys have nice cases for them? Perhaps I should look into this...but for the added cost I'd prefer leather hones (abrasive loaded leather stretched over hard wood or granite). YMMV