i understand butcher department at local market will sharpen, curious if that will remove the years of abuse/ restore bevel, and what they are using to sharpen?
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i understand butcher department at local market will sharpen, curious if that will remove the years of abuse/ restore bevel, and what they are using to sharpen?
Most commercial sharpening is done with belts and wheels. Factory knives included.
Since we are talking about kitchen knifes, do any of those machines you can buy put a good edge on a kitchen knife? I would think they would work well. I rescently bought some stones for knife sharpening but havent put much time into it yet. I can hone a razor very well, but knifes are not working out well for me. I think one main issue is i used to the feel of a razor edge. Not a knife edge.
Ive watched Joes vids on sharpening but do any of you have a recommendation on knife sharpening vids to watch using stones not diamond?
Thanks to the OP for bringing this up. Maybe i can learn to sharpen.
Diamonds would save you a lot of time. I use atomas and dmts when I freehand. Stropping is vital to get a shaving edge off a kitchen or other knife. Unless you use paper wheels. I have chosera and suehiro stones that work great on carbon. I don't own any carbon steel kitchen knives as everything ends up in the dishwasher here. For the heck of it I took a.knife to a 140 atoma. Did a good round of stropping on a balsa block with various compounds to leather and it shaved arm hair. I typically sharpen higher than that although I don't think for general kitchen use it matters. Edit: machine wise a belt sander works great. As do paper wheels. If you have a buffer you can buy a set and your in. I use a router speed control on mine at about 1/2 speed.
Belt sanding sharpening video. (Not mine nor any affiliation)
https://youtu.be/Ptspof6CXOg
Paper wheel demo. Again not mine nor any affiliation.
https://youtu.be/ddWqfhqW9OM
I have a Carbon steel tanaka gyuto that I will do edge leading strokes and sort of strop it once or twice a month (have a small jnat for that but thinking about selling it and getting a full size stone jnat for the knives). When that doesn't work I raise a bit of slurry and do some edge leading strokes then finish with the spine leading stropping on the stone. For my Cheap knives however I raise a bur on each side of the knife with a DMT then few finishing strokes on that (edge leading). Then I go to the 1k chosera and do a few edge leading strokes and call it done.
I think the youtuber Burrfection has some nice knife sharpening videos if you want to look at those.
I have a paper wheel set up, might even be that one. It does produce a nice polished edge with minimal heat and steel removal.
But like most Jigs, it is a pain to drag out all the gear just to sharpen a knife or two, when you can just slap a Diamond plate on the bench and be done in a couple of minutes.
If you want a shiny knife bevel, they might be for you, they are easy to use and not expensive, I think I paid $20-30.
You can learn to freehand a kitchen knife, plane blade or chisel easily as the bevels are so wide, and if you feel you cant do it, pick up a clip on plastic knife guide for a couple bucks that will provide a quick, consistent bevel or an Eclipse jig copy for tools, $10.
I agree 100% . There were a few mentions though about abused knives. By hand it's doable obviously. But if you have a belt sander and belts (which I had already) it was a no brainier. I had a 6 inch grinder as well. I think I paid about $50 for the 8 inch wheel set with the paste and grit.
How is there no heat with the paper wheels when they recommend 3400rpm grinders ?