Originally Posted by
Euclid440
As a point of clarification, generally you do not want to set a bevel with a Diamond plate.
Diamonds are aggressive and cut deep stria. That deep stria, if not fully removed will cause the edge to be chippy, depending on the steel. Note how Joseph joints the edge several times to get to good undamaged steel during the honing process. Also note how few laps it takes to get them to meet fully again after jointing, 10 laps.
If you use Diamonds for edge correction, do not fully set the bevel, (get the bevels to meet fully). Then when you do get the bevels meeting you will have removed all the deep stria with the 1k.
This is considered repair work, not garden-variety honing. Once the repairs are made, then the honing begins. Also, note Joseph is using a well-worn Diamond plate that will not cut as deeply as a new plate.
Joseph is very good at that, note how he just gets the 1k bevels to meet then moves to the next stone. Once the bevels are in the correct plane, flat and meeting, there is no need to stay on the 1k.
For most new honers the problem is knowing when the bevels are fully set and meeting. Just look straight down on the edge, any shinny reflections are where the bevels are not meeting or chips, the edge is not fully set.
Kapton is much tougher than electrical tape and inexpensive, if you buy the knock off on Ebay. Buy the ¾ in / 20mm tape. 15mm is too thin.