Thread: Transitioning from tools to razors part ii

This original thread humbled me into learning that straight razor honing is not planer and chisel honing. For one, the stakes are so much higher on a soft target.

So now eBay delivered a nice kit of Naniwa 1, 3, 8 & 12k stones. I've put the DMT extra fine and Boy Scout stones away.I found an affordable loupe from Belarus BeLomo 20x (10 x would have been better choice) I have two strops and a piece of denim. One is a nice Illinois 206 and the other is pretty beat up for practice or maybe pasting?

My practice razor is a griffon xx taped. So far, I believe to be following directions well.

The main learning was to stop focusing on the 12k mirror finish ( it doesn't help ) but to start over and set te edge.

I'm following the honing guide https://shavelibrary.com/w/Beginner%27s_Guide_to_Honing and still need practice, but it looks great. Uniform slightly angled scratches on the 1000.

Long essay... but some questions

1) magic marker test - nice and clean except the last centimeter. I'll post a pic. Is it pressure? Practice? Smiley? Frowny? Lapping? Is it obvious?

2) ceramic naniwa 1k is a new ballgame for me. It seems to be building up? Ok right? Expected for fiftyish strokes?

3) I stroked t until it hums ... can't explain but it felt like a sharpening stone now it feels like smooth glass. That's a good sign but I don't know if I've got an edge or the same useless sharpness as before?

4) wet, right? (It feels right)

5) videos ? Is there a great video that we trust? I keep finding people demonstrating on paper

I don't want to progress up until 1k gets a passing grade.

One pic shows apparent buildup and practice razor
One pic shows clean green start
One pic shows AFTER four careful strokes on each side. The other side is clean.

Why did you tape like that ???

Out of all the vids on my channel that deal with honing this might be my Fav to show to newbs

It isn't me honing,,, just helping, back when Mark was new to this

https://youtu.be/vxrs5kFkmJg?si=Npzs3_0l5LYABHHS

Why tape like that? Dunno…. Just doing what I was told, sir. This blade’s shoulder already had significant wear and the blade width is worn all the way close to the logo, so it made a good practice blade. I understand heretofore throughout eternity I shall tape this blade when honing. I’m sure the angle is going to be quite steep.

I’m digging into the video now…thanks!

“First thing you do is tape” says the video. Did I tape it incorrectly? Maybe that’s what you meant?

Yes, it's taped incorrectly. It needs taped from just past the shoulders, to the toe.

The hone wear on that blade requires advanced taping techniques. To learn right, u need a razor with minimal, even hone wear, or a new razor.

Watch numerous videos and abstract the info that u commonly see and hear.

I'll say this...use an X stroke, over flat honing the whole edge all at once. That's the most common stroke for most razors

Found in every barbers handbook. Along with learning to shave a balloon to pass the test, for shaving customers.

Mike and Glen are always right!
Always, ALWAYS hone toward a smile and at least tape the spine all the way.Hang some off the grob.
Creative tape wear/adding tape is something learned but only after basics are grounded.

From Myself...

Don't begin with a train wreck. Those need advanced stuff. Good razor with fine geometry which won't quite shave.
That's what you want.

This is a worn out practice razor.
Focusing on the initial bezel is the focus and whether this blade makes it to shave-ready would require advanced skills. So let's just use it to get the bevel right.

I'll re-tape it . I did the x strokes on the 1000. It's not ready for any balloon test. I'm a little lost.

How do you know the edge is perfect, neither over nor under honed?
Whether the angle is off by thousandths due to size is of no consequence.

I don't want to practice on some of the nicer and older blades in this bunch. I'm trying to learn edge. Then hone. Then strop.

Then I'll Polish a nice one before starting it all again.

You now have a good quality set of hones, good job. With practice and lots of patience they will get a razor to shave ready, provided no heavy lifting is required with low grits. Make sure those new stones are flat, don't assume they are. Pencil a grid all over stone face and lap with a fine diamond plate. Repeat process to be sure. Before a honing session I always run a few laps across the stones with a fine diamond plate. Hones can dish faster than you think. As the other fellas said, run the tape from tip of toe to just past shoulders. Avoid bubbles and wrinkles in tape. Sounds pedantic but you gotta do the simple little things right. Check tape regular, it can wear through fast on 1k. Remember, be patient. Try avoid info overload, I found it useful to follow honing advice from just one or two helpful experienced fellas.

Originally Posted by Scatterjoy

This is a worn out practice razor.
Focusing on the initial bezel is the focus and whether this blade makes it to shave-ready would require advanced skills. So let's just use it to get the bevel right.

I'll re-tape it . I did the x strokes on the 1000. It's not ready for any balloon test. I'm a little lost.

How do you know the edge is perfect, neither over nor under honed?
Whether the angle is off by thousandths due to size is of no consequence.

I don't want to practice on some of the nicer and older blades in this bunch. I'm trying to learn edge. Then hone. Then strop.

Then I'll Polish a nice one before starting it all again.

When you are setting the bevel, using regular strokes without excessive pressure, it is not really easy to over hone at this point. Developing a burr or over honing at this point almost has to be intentional.
If you are developing a burr you are using too much pressure.

Keep an eye on the tape and make sure you do not go through! Your pressure can sort of be checked as you go in that one piece of tape will do till near finishing. That is, if you are working on a wonky razor and it takes a while to get the bevel you may have to change tape regularly. Once the bevel is set I would put on a fresh layer of tape to begin moving forward. On your next stone after only a few strokes check the edge. The new striations will be evident right at the edge and will clearly be a good sign for you. Use that layer of tape till you get to at least 8k then put a new one on to finish.

So, to know when you are done bevel setting: view the edge with a loupe and see that all striations get to the absolute edge of the razor along its full length. If yes, check the edge. If not, modify your stroke to reach the areas not contacted. This sounds easy and where a lot of problems will come from when learning. Makes sure your stones are flat - as stated!!

So now, all striations make it to the edge. Test either on a tomato skin (with no pressure drag the edge a few mm on the tomato and the skin should slice easily) check the entire edge for the same result.
Checking how the edge cuts arm hair at this point is what I use and probably most others. This will develop with practice to know what that should feel like. It will bite easily at the skin and will shave every hair in the way. It will feel sharp!

Once there, progress to finer stones by viewing the edge as before. Testing the edge at each stage is not necessary, but, making sure you reach the edge with every stone is!!

Once to 8k with a new layer of tape and some strokes try stropping and shaving. It should shave surprisingly well. If not, you have not completed your work to that point. Going further with higher grit will not help you. Ground work is the key.

Let us know when you get to that point.
Good luck.