Quote:
D8C( maybe D8F), Norton 4K/8K, Yellow Couticle - 6" X 2" yellow couticle ($200 from Howard)
OR
D6C (maybe D6F), BBW, Yellow Couticle - all 6"X 2" stones($160 from Howard)
1) Could I go from the D8C to the Norton 4k/8k or would I use D8C, Yellow with slurry, Norton 4k/8k, Yellow with water
2) Would the D8F make a good hone for both lapping and a low grit (600) starting stone. Anyone else use one for lapping?
You'll have more flexibility with the first package over the second package but I would go for at D8C for either of the two packages and skip the smaller D6C. You never know when you'll run into another hone down the road where the D8C's size will come in handy and it does not hamper you when flattening smaller hones. The D8C vs the D8F.... the D8C is the workhorse in flatting other hones, the D8F will work but will be slower and wear out faster... it might also *dull* the hones you flatten more than the coarser one. You want those diamonds to quickly level the hone you're flattening by cutting the binder in the hone, finer diamonds will have more of an effect on the grit embedded in the binder, possibly fracturing some of that grit and in a way, dull it. It's probably minor in this case but the wear on the diamond hone is not. The closer in size the grit on the coarsest hone you are flattening is with the diamond grit of the lapping plate, the more wear to the nickel plating that is holding those diamonds in place. DMT suggests the 325 and 220 grit plates for flattening water hones.
I would normally never start a razor on a D8C unless it was grossly damaged as such a coarse hone will likely do a fair bit of damage itself. I'd wet the Norton 8k side and use some 1000 grit wet/dry laid on top for the rough work, then switch to the 4k side and finish the bevel, then the 8k and finally the coticule. For regular maintenance honing you'll be fine with just the coticule though you might feel the need to return to the 8k for 10 or 20 strokes if you've let the razor go a bit far.
Regards
Christian