Thread: Stupid honing question

If I have a razor with a nice equal bevel...How often would I have to 'reset' the bevel.

If I do a few passes on a blue followed by coticule and cr0 every now and then...when would I have to go back to a low grit stone to work on the bevel? ( Assuming I don't drop and ding the razor on anything)

thanks,

JF

Once the blade has been honed correctly (assuming that the bevel is set correctly), it should never have to be set again. When the blade gets a bit dull, simply go to the coticule, and then the cr0.

Though I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong

Steven

If the bevel is set and the razor is sharp, you should never have to reset the bevel. The only reason you'd have to go to a coarse enough stone to reset the bevel is if you got a chip in the blade. Once the razor is shaving sharp, you shouldn't ever have to go lower than a coticule to touch it up, even chromium oxide should be enough. You would only have to go lower than a coticule if you abused your razor or let it get pretty dull, by which point it would NOT be nice with to shave!

That's what I thought. So I guess I should be set with my BBW/Coticule, swaty and cr0. I only have 4 razors that are all shave ready. I thought using the cr0 alone would eventually lead to a poor edge..

Would you recommend using the swaty followed by the cr0 or the coticule followed by the cr0 when I need touch ups.

I also thought that using a stone as well every time you use some paste would help to prevent that rounding from happening.

I have that same fear. I have pasted strops, but never use them solely as a touch-up, always a fine stone first. I feel that if there is a slight bit of convexing at the edge due to the paste, then whenever I use a stone first for a touch up, then paste, the stone was correct that little bit of convexing each time.

I have NO scientific backup for this claim, it's just what I believe!

Originally Posted by StraightRazorDave

I have that same fear. I have pasted strops, but never use them solely as a touch-up, always a fine stone first. I feel that if there is a slight bit of convexing at the edge due to the paste, then whenever I use a stone first for a touch up, then paste, the stone was correct that little bit of convexing each time.

I have NO scientific backup for this claim, it's just what I believe!

How often have you done that on a razor without seeing any kind of negative effect on the edge?

Originally Posted by Dups

If I have a razor with a nice equal bevel...How often would I have to 'reset' the bevel.

In the field of "bevel work", I use 3 definitions in my personal train of thoughts.

1. bevel (re)buiding.
Restoring old razor sometimes calls for the complete removal of the original bevel, due to corrosion, or a frowning curve in the edge, or large chips missing, among other issues. It requires very coarse hones and a few dedicated tricks.

2. bevel setting.
Dialing in a bevel with flat panes and correct angle during the first honing of a (new) razor. This ideally requires a hone in the 1K region. As I stated before, fast Coticules are fully capable of doing this line of work.

3. bevel correction.
As soon as a razor stops responding to doing touch-ups, it's always going to be in need of a "bevel refreshment". This might be minor, if touching up was done with a method that didn't introduce convexity. Multiple touch-ups on pasted strops, can introduce significant convexity, due to give in the leather and/or slack in the strop. The amount of steel that needs to be removed from the cheeks of the bevel can take quite a bit of work, certainly on wider bevels.
A lot of well-used razors I see, have series of small nicks at the edge. I think it's naturally occurring damage, building up shave after shave. Honing them out, I also consider "bevel correction".
Bevel correction ideally require hones in the 1K to 4K range, depending on how much steel needs to be removed. Many Coticules are very capable of meeting the requirements.

Obviously, there's some overlap in my definitions.
Sometimes bevel correction requires 30 laps on a Coticule with slurry, sometimes it takes many hundreds.
A complete bevel has a nice clean straight (or fluently smiling) edge and shaves arm hairs very well. All it needs is a bit of extra keenness and a finishing smoothness of choice.

I've tried to address this topic in a Wiki article:
Bevel-setting in theory and practice - Straight Razor Place Wiki