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Thread: Setting the bevel (just venting)
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05-02-2009, 12:30 AM #1
Setting the bevel (just venting)
OK, so I'M setting the bevel on my modded DA (I breadknifed it to tame the smile) and it is taking FOREVER. Seriously. I read the wiki, and I know this is normal, but man, do I want to shave with this thing already!
I seem to have plateaued on my 1k, and it just isn't getting any keener. It'll pop some arm hairs WTG, but ATG it just folds them over...*sigh*
Guess it's back to the 400...
Ok, I'm done venting.
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05-02-2009, 12:39 AM #2
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Thanked: 171It's funny you should mention it. I have honed up a couple dozen razors with no problems, but my DA gives me the same results you describe. I bought it new, and did so much work trying to get the bevel set to my liking that I put almost 2mm of hone wear on it. I still don't have it near as sharp as my other razors and where I would like it to be. This reminds me though, I ought to grab it and have another go at it.
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JimR (05-04-2009)
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05-02-2009, 12:47 AM #3
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Thanked: 3795DA's are okay. Not great, not bad, but a solid okay.
I wouldn't rely too heavily on your arm hair test at this stage. Given that the bevel setting takes all the time, how about you go ahead with the rest of your progression or pyramids and then do a test shave. If it shaves okay, you're done. If not, then you can go back to the 400 or 1k for another round of metal removal. It's worth a shot!
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JimR (05-04-2009)
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05-02-2009, 01:58 AM #4
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Thanked: 156edit: Will learn to read the entire post next time.
Yeah, breadknifing it is very bad.
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05-02-2009, 02:21 AM #5
I use the PPT at this point. If there isn't a good
description of the palm-pad test around at this
point, I ought to do one with pictures.
- Scott
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05-02-2009, 04:13 AM #6
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Thanked: 13250Jim a couple of quick questions that actually might help just from the asking...
Are you using 3 layers of tape like I wrote in the thread????
Did you fix the heel on the DA so that the entire blade is resting on the stone and not being lifted off the back 1/3 of the edge by the shoulder????
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The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
JimR (05-02-2009)
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05-12-2009, 06:54 PM #7
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The Following User Says Thank You to hoglahoo For This Useful Post:
JimR (05-12-2009)
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05-02-2009, 09:37 PM #8
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Utopian (05-02-2009)
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05-03-2009, 12:19 AM #9
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Thanked: 13250This is the thread that we were referring to
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ged-blade.html
For those that are giving honing advice here, keep in mind that this step must be completed first, before the advice on honing has any relevance...
Bread-knifing is a restoration technique, and doesn't transform into straight honing until the rough bevel is complete...
Therefore what seems backward use of taping, actually is not...
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The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
JimR (05-04-2009)
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05-04-2009, 12:52 AM #10
Thanks guys. I tried the DA out and, as expected, the shave was no good. Dull as ditchwater.
So I think I need to take it back down to the 1k and get the bevel where it ought to be. One thing that is encouraging...the polished part of the bevel looks really really smooth under magnification, so I was doing something right. Except, you know....honing my razor. That part I screwed up.
Here's the thing, though...I don't think I want a taped spine. That double bevel would make my barber hones useless, right? So I don't want to go through the whole progression with 3 layers of tape...can I drop back down to the 1k and take off the "shoulders" of the double bevel to the point where it meets the true bevel? Does that even make sense?
Glenn, could you please explain in more detail how taping the spine at the bevel setting stage DOESN'T result in a double bevel? I think I understand, but I'm not sure....when you say to make a "true bevel" on the 1k, is that where you eliminate the double bevel effect that I ended up with?