Originally Posted by
Bart
Hi Kemal,
If you previously dulled the edge on glass, (to make sure it did not shave anything anymore), and it now shaves hair again along the entire edge, then you can be completely confident that it has a complete bevel. Even if that bevel does not completely makes you happy, it still is technically a good bevel. All that matters for the shave, is that both bevel faces are completely flat and developed all the way to the very edge.
If the razor was previously dulled, the very edge can only start gaining new sharpness on a flat hone, when that goal is reached. The only reason for ever dulling an edge on glass, is just that. It won't straighten out a bevel with uneven sides. It just allows you to be sure the bevel stage is done. Ready to go the finer hones and start refining the very edge. Your success at that will define how well the edge eventually shaves.
The fact that the bevel is uneven, is no big deal for the shaving abilities of the razor. It may bother you of course, but it doesn't bother the razor.
If there is a clear difference in width between both bevel sides, you could work on the narrow side with a bevel setting hone, till that side is wider (the opposite side becomes narrower at the same time, so watch out)
If both bevel sides have tapering widths that are each other's complement, there's not a lot you can do about it. The razor may be slightly warped, or there might be some uneveness in the way it was grind. The slightest deviation in a razors geometry shows up in the shape of the bevel. But that doesn't mean it can't be a great shaver!
Now. You say the hone wear looks uneven too, and that suggests that the previous honer may have applied uneven pressure. Problems in blade geometry usually only show up at the bevel and not at the hone wear. Working it out takes a lot of experience, and one has to always ask whether it is worth the steel removal. If the razor is capable to develop a good bevel (something we already know), why hone away a layer of steel of the spine to fix a problem that only affects the razors on a cosmetic level? Over the years of honing and carefully maintaining that razor will slowly even out the spine wear anyway.
But for the sake of being complete, and not because I am recommending this to someone with limited experience, you could tape the edge (not the spine) and hone on the DMT 1200 till the spine wear looks nice and even on both sides.
Next, remove the tape from the edge, dull on glass to make sure it does not shave arm hair any longer, and hone till the bevel is complete again. That might take a while, because with the new spine geometrics, the new bevel will look different too. Some parts will only start responding when the entire bevel approaches its new shape. This is advanced honing, more of a restoration job actually.
Based on the pictures, I would not choose this option, but refine the edge as it is and enjoy the shaves.
I'm not really familiar with your finer hones, such as the Mitsufune, the Chinese hone and the MST Thuringian. I can't really offer much advice on how to refine the current edge, but I'm sure you'll get there.
Good luck,
Bart.