I finally got a hold of some japanese lacquer to seal my Jnat.
Does anyone have any tips on the proper way to apply and cure the lacquer to my stone.
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I finally got a hold of some japanese lacquer to seal my Jnat.
Does anyone have any tips on the proper way to apply and cure the lacquer to my stone.
Is it urushi or kashew? Big differences in use
Not sure I got it off the BST at B&B.
The seller said his friend sent it to him from Japan.
It's white and looks like watered down white school glue.
It's in a white bottle with a red cap, no label.
Thank you for the link O_S.
Here are some pictures of what I have.Quote:
Originally Posted by kevint
Correct me if I'm wrong but that is the same bottle 330mate uses for tsubaki.. so that must be "aqueous lacquer" from the same site.
lets see where he provides instruction for use assuming that's what you got.
He says: let's use it diluted 2-5 times.
So it's Paint on and let dry I guess
Isn't the practice of lacquering the sides of Japanese stones a carry over from when they were stored outside? I know the intent is to prevent moisture from de-laminating the stone, but thought it had more value when the stone is exposed to the weather vs when it is wet from honing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill S
It is, but there's nothing wrong with doing it. Some stones are more porous on the sides, or have damage, and lacquering can prevent deterioration from that. And I have stones that are stamped on the sides and I lacquered them to prevent the stamps getting worn off.
It certainly isn't necessary, though.
I agree, that looks just like the bottle I got from 330mate. I lacquered several of my stones with it, and their coating is still as good as when I coated them, I've been very pleased with it's durability...
When I used it, I made sure the stones were damp, then used a paper towel as a brush to apply a thin coat to all sides of the stone except the top, I did not dilute it....
then I let the stones sit inside on the kitchen table face down for 2 days to make sure they were completely dry since the lacquer is water soluble until it's completely dry.....
After the coating is cured, I had to re-Lap the surface and re-Bevel the edges of the face to get rid of excess lacquer.
Does anyone know why Polyurethane can't be used, or something of that nature. I have used it successfully on my Escher's to keep the label with no ill effects. Can it be applied to J Nat's?, if not, why? If my logic is correct, the point is to seal out moisture, heck, you may be able to use Thompson's water seal?
I see no reason why not, I would use something that does not soak in
I used poly on a synthetic Aoto and it peeled off. Naturals are not soaked though so it might work, but generally any lacquer will do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mainaman
come to think of it; whatever SO Yama used to seal my stone also started flaking off.
Was your stone clean when you sealed it.
I hope you dont start an unnecessary fad of sealing synthetics?????:lurk:
I'd have to agree with kevint......the polyurethane would probably be just fine, although I would personally stay away from anything thin like the thompsons water seal.Quote:
Originally Posted by kevint
If I was looking for something at a home improvement store to seal a stone with, I would personally go with "Spar Varnish" because it's made to allow wood to withstand a saltwater environment.....
Sounds Good, I've done four Escher's with Poly, and they're doin great..and it's been some time...Now, as far as J-Nat's, I am not an authority on those. I digress to the Authorities.
it was clean, I sealed it because it cracked. I also put it on a base.Quote:
Originally Posted by kevint
sorry to get off topic guys. this interests me.... it cracked? how'd it happen. I have oft considered getting one but not now. You put it on a base- glued down or the right way :) ? and was that before or after the crack?Quote:
Originally Posted by mainaman
I got one of the huge bricksQuote:
Originally Posted by kevint
which cracked in the summer due to too high temperatures. Others have reported the same and the general opinion is that the inside of the stone is still wet while the outside is visibly dry which lead to the cracking.
I epoxied it to a 225 x 95 wood base that I had water proofed first.Dave also sells smaller version of this stone that I think will turn out better because it will be able to dry faster.
Seems the more porous stones are more prone to crack than others.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimR
IIRC So says that Aoto tends to split along the grain, so some kind of lacquering would be prudent in this case.