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Thread: Tips on applying japanese laquer
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02-13-2010, 02:28 AM #1
Tips on applying japanese laquer
I finally got a hold of some japanese lacquer to seal my Jnat.
Does anyone have any tips on the proper way to apply and cure the lacquer to my stone.
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02-13-2010, 04:56 AM #2
Is it urushi or kashew? Big differences in use
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02-13-2010, 05:02 AM #3
Not sure I got it off the BST at B&B.
The seller said his friend sent it to him from Japan.
It's white and looks like watered down white school glue.
It's in a white bottle with a red cap, no label.
Thank you for the link O_S.
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02-13-2010, 04:50 PM #4
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02-13-2010, 05:03 PM #5
Correct me if I'm wrong but that is the same bottle 330mate uses for tsubaki.. so that must be "aqueous lacquer" from the same site.
lets see where he provides instruction for use assuming that's what you got.
He says: let's use it diluted 2-5 times.
So it's Paint on and let dry I guessLast edited by kevint; 02-13-2010 at 05:26 PM.
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02-14-2010, 12:39 AM #6
Isn't the practice of lacquering the sides of Japanese stones a carry over from when they were stored outside? I know the intent is to prevent moisture from de-laminating the stone, but thought it had more value when the stone is exposed to the weather vs when it is wet from honing.
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02-14-2010, 05:18 AM #7
It is, but there's nothing wrong with doing it. Some stones are more porous on the sides, or have damage, and lacquering can prevent deterioration from that. And I have stones that are stamped on the sides and I lacquered them to prevent the stamps getting worn off.
It certainly isn't necessary, though.
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02-23-2010, 04:14 AM #8
I agree, that looks just like the bottle I got from 330mate. I lacquered several of my stones with it, and their coating is still as good as when I coated them, I've been very pleased with it's durability...
When I used it, I made sure the stones were damp, then used a paper towel as a brush to apply a thin coat to all sides of the stone except the top, I did not dilute it....
then I let the stones sit inside on the kitchen table face down for 2 days to make sure they were completely dry since the lacquer is water soluble until it's completely dry.....
After the coating is cured, I had to re-Lap the surface and re-Bevel the edges of the face to get rid of excess lacquer.Last edited by Smokintbird; 02-23-2010 at 04:17 AM.
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02-23-2010, 06:47 PM #9
Does anyone know why Polyurethane can't be used, or something of that nature. I have used it successfully on my Escher's to keep the label with no ill effects. Can it be applied to J Nat's?, if not, why? If my logic is correct, the point is to seal out moisture, heck, you may be able to use Thompson's water seal?
We have assumed control !
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02-23-2010, 06:59 PM #10
I see no reason why not, I would use something that does not soak in