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I always use one layer of tape on my normal razors (hollow) because I have a norton 4/8K and it can eat my spines fast. On a wedge blade I would use two or three pieces depending on the angle of the spine on the hone (Should be flat without tape, etc).
Simple, really.
As mentioned earlier I only use tape when I have damege to remove. Otherwise it's a no tape zone here.
So what did the old timers do before they could run to Ace Hardware and pick up a roll of 3M #33 (10,000 volts per wrap)?
Another question, as it runs counter intuitively for me: why reduce the number of layers of tape during the honing process, which would elevate the edge off the hone, rather than add layers which would keep the edge in contact with the hone?
I just picked up a near wedge straight on e-bay and had to tape the spine with 4 layers of elect tape to set a nice bevel. I kept the tape on the blade thru 1k 5k 8k 12k and then removed the tape and stropped it on newspaper, iam no honemister but it works for me.
I have never heard of removing tape layers while moving up the grit scale on the hones, that's confusing to me also. I keep the same amount of tape the whole way up until the stropping step.
EDIT: a question; what does tape do to a razor if you used it for say...ten years on a razor? Is this going to cause issue with stone contact?
How much is the razor being honed ? I no longer use tape except for damascus blades, decorated spines or certain restores. OTOH I did use tape for over a year on every razor I honed but I have one heck of a large rotation. So if a guy has one razor and hones it with tape over many years it will make for a steeper honing angle. Whether that angle would eventually become a problem would depend on how steep it became ..... I suppose. In measuring spines before and after honing (bevel set to finish) I found little of no change in the measurement before and after. This is of course in one honing session per razor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Disburden
I am glad I used tape for the time that I did because I had learned pressure and stroke over that first year. When I saw flattened spines on vintage razors I feared that a few honing sessions would do that to a blade. With correct pressure and stroke it takes years and many sessions to wear a razor down to that extent .... IMHO. There is a different feel on the hones when tape isn't used and I found that once I got used to it I preferred it. BTW, Utopian pointed out to me, back when I did use tape, that it is a good idea to change the tape between stones within a progressive honing session since it wears slightly and will subtly change the honing angle.
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Originally Posted by Bruce
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Originally Posted by Dis burden
We think they used a Spine guide of some sort on the real wedges, we have found some evidence of it ... Also my opinion is that most of the bad hone wear came from Barber's hones and amateurs, rather than stones and professional Cutlers...
You are missing what we are saying on the 3-2-1 drop down,,, That is all done on one stone it is for restoration, NOT honing per se, don't confuse the two like people did with breadknifing... You are setting a pre-bevel and down into the actual bevel then proceeding from that point with 1 or no layers of tape...The higher angle concentrates the honing to the very edge taking out bad steel faster... Now some people stay with that higher angle it really doesn't matter... Keep in mind that on a 6/8 size razor each layer of tape changes the angle about 3/4 of one degree... If you go back the the Angle Measurement thread you will find that angles range from 12-22 easily and possibly even more, so considering that the average angle that we measured is 16 then you have plenty of room to play around... Which also brings up the weak argument of "It changes the factory set angle" I seriously doubt anyone of us can tell the difference between 5 layers of tape in a blind test, let alone one layer.... Next meet up someone should try out out on two matched razors...
It always boils down to the same thing, tape, or no tape, do want you want, but if you do it , do it consistantly...
I am on the agree with not taping team unless you are taping when you need to remove a lot of steel from an edge or to protect a Damascus pattern or a fancy spine.
When you tape on a razor, specifically a wedge that has uneven and excessive hone or grinding on the spine that is in different places, ie, heel, middle or toe and then different on both sides of the razor, a layer of tape will only mimic the faults already in the spine and you will end up with a bevel that reflects the damage in the spine. Even with significant honing, it is pretty hard to get a decent bevel here. You can add up to 4 layers of tape on a razor and it will still reflect some of the uneven wear on the spine, although it will be to a less degree. You have to really watch this in your bevels as you are honing. When removing steel or resetting a bevel in this manner and when starting on a 220 grit stone, you do need to change the tape frequently as you will see it wearing through layers pretty quickly. The trick if you want to tape like this is to put enough layers of tape on the razor to minimize the effect of the hone wear on the spine and create a mini-bevel that will be consistent across the edge.
You guys have fun with this.........:)
Lynn
Well Bruce, I think that the old barbers didn't care about that because those were their everyday tools: they didn't see them as part of their collection; I got a couple of Filarmonicas from an old barber and they are evenly wore on the spine side. In these blades I use one layer of tape during the honing process...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce
Cheers!!!
I just honed a english wedge razor. When I used 3 layers of tape the bevel was huge so I moved up to 5 still the bevel was still quiet big. To sum up in order to get a nice bevel that was sharp enought I ended up using 10 layers of tape. Huge mistake?