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Recently i added a coticule to my other hones. It is of greenish color and seems to be a good polisher. I was able to get a smooth shave with a blade that had to be touched up. I used a small coti of chamois color to raise slurry and applied the dilucot method followed by crox.
Today I tried to use the stone on a blade that i want to restore. The edge is blunt after sanding it. I spent 1 hour on the hone but i could not get it to shave arm hair.
Do you use a coti for restoration work?
You can, but the Coti your describing, Green in color is a hard finisher...Sorry my friend. It'd take you some time to set a bevel with that...Pinker Coti's or deep yellow's are normally softer, and better cutters...I can't help with the other terminology your using, I don't use Bart's methods..Sorry. You might check with him on that...
My advice to you, Get a 1k...you'll be glad you did....
Tiger stripped cotis are pretty fast cutters too, they have a pink/brown tint to them..These pics aren't the best....
P.S. Jimmy, I want that Pink Coti....
IME green tint coticules are slow with water only and good polishers. I have a couple and they work well to add keenness with slurry and then finish with water only but they ain't efficient for setting a bevel. Coticules with a lot of pink in them are the best I've found for fast cutting. I have the one shown below and it is real good for setting bevels with heavy slurry. So it depends on the coticule. Most of the time I use a synthetic in the 1k range for bevel setting.
Look at it this way, coticules are rare, finite in quantity, and expensive. Any way you do it, the coticule is better on the finishing end rather than the bevel setting end of the honing spectrum. 1k hones are relatively cheap and do the job faster. If you intend to set more than a few bevels, the 1k is a much better option.
I usually use a Shapton glass 500 for re-set a bevel. But i like the idea of using a single hone for all purposes.
Setting the bevel on the razor i mentioned took about 30 minutes on the Shapton. I just wanted to know if somebody uses a coti for restoration work.
Would a different slurry stone speedup the process? Which would you recommend?
How big of a coti?
Making a real thick slurry and working it back and forth or in circles until the bevel is set. I Use a progression to get the bevel and then move to coti.
Here is a video off of youtube.
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWa8hL4nroc[/YOUTUBE]
You can probably do it on your green coticule but bring your lunch. What Utopian is saying, the way I interpret it, is that coticules are rare and expensive. Wearing one out setting bevels is not as efficient as using the easily replaced and more efficient synthetic.Quote:
Originally Posted by walto
I don't know, If your intent on using the green coti to do it, I'd probably try a bbw slurry, then if I could get one, A pinker, or deep yellow slurry stone....refreshing the slurry as it darkens...Don't forget, The Coti itself is going to bring something to the party too, so, how much the slurry does, vs the stone itself, I'm not sure...
Why not ask Bart to try and get you a "Do all coti" a softer one...That green one will be a good finisher, I'm estimating in the 10k range....
I'd rather do not eat during honing:)Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
This stone is rather big. It's 250x62mm. I found out that the slurry stone has something like a bbw on the other side. It raises a purple slurry on the coti. I will try this side as slurry stone next time.
I'm an inveterate Coticule user. I love them and live barely a stone's throw from the quarries. I totally agree with Utopian. My bevel setter is a Naniwa 1k.
I use mine all the time. I' not above using my pink coloured vintage to set bevels. It can take an very long time, as Jimmy pointed out, but it's not that bad. It's not like I consider that time as wasted... even though I could get there faster using other hones, I just enjoy working with my coti.
I enjoy the meditative element in honing. I am still working on my patience to reach a deeper insight on this coticule. In zen monastaries there is a monk who hits the back of the fellows. I think i would need that. My back hurts after a multi hour honing session.
Great advice Ron. I agree.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
A little bit off topic but here it goes:
In the video they tape the spine AFTER setting the bevel. I've always thought that setting the bevel meant removing a lot of metal, and to avoid thinning the spine you'd use the tape. Can some one enlighten me on this? :confused:
That is bart's Unicot method which you can see on Coticule.be, his web forum for coticules.