Help Touching Up

Hello all,

I'm having difficulties touching up my razors. I have two that I've attempted to touch up. When I noticed my shave quality diminish (after about 2 months), I tried to use my CH12k to get the edge back to shave ready. After 30-50 laps, I strop and it seems the same or maybe even worse than before.

I'm doing x strokes with very light pressure. Could I be going too light? Does anybody have any suggestions?

I know it's hard to offer help with such a vague description, but any help would be appreciated.

My first instinct is to blame the stone, but I know it's just me getting frustrated with the learning curve. It's very frustrating because I love shaving with a straight. But if I can't maintain my own edges, it doesn't seem to make sense in the long run.

Other info that might be helpful.

I've lapped the hone probably 3 times, going from 320 grit sandpaper to 400 to 600 each time. 600 or 800 is the finest they carry in my nearest hardware store.

Both razors are Dovo Best Quality, a 5/8 and a 6/8, made shave ready by SRD.

Thanks again,

Ken

You might need to find out whether it was honed with tape on the spine originally. There's a video about it here. I think #7 or 8. Essentially, there could be a slightly different angle that the blade was originally honed at. This would keep the razor's edge from meeting with the 12K.

Hi Kent,

It sounds like the often recommended check of contact with the edge is needed. 'felt tipped marker, or such, paint the edge of the blade. Then after 2-3 strokes on the stone - look at the edge under magnification to see if the stroke is actually making contact with the very edge. If not, it could be several reasons, but it's the first critical question to answer.

I use a c12k also, and get excellent results - especially since trying some slurry techniques. That doesn't mean all c12ks are created equal. They're natural stones and vary ALOT. One member went through 4 before finding one that satisfied. Check the threads on the c12k.

Another area to consider is that after riding the stones, more stropping, usually beginning on linen or canvas is often important and under-rated. Blades that won't lop hair off the stone often come around with alot of stropping. I've had them repeatedly not come up to standard after 50 canvas, 100 leather. A few successive repeats of going back to canvas, then back to leather, and they lop hair & shave well.

Let us know what you find with the magic marker test.

The clue here is after honing it is worse than before. That would seem to indicate something is amiss in your honing technique. Without seeing how you hone the only thing we can do is repeat the usual things like the guys recommended to you. Light pressure, consistent strokes, make sure the edge is getting equal contact and pressure throughout the stroke, proper x stroke. Also check you bevel and edge for chips and wear patterns. use a magnifier.

Thanks for you help! I forgot about the marker test. I don't have a loupe or microscope, but I think I have a magnifying glass somewhere, I'll see what I can see with that. If it isn't powerful enough (or I can't see the edge in enough detail), should I not do the marker test? I'll also try a lot of stropping to see if that gets me anywhere.

I was re-reading some of the threads about the ch12k and some of them mentioned a noticeable suction when honing. I felt that with one razor, but not so much with the other, not sure what that means, maybe not as good contact with the edge.

As for tape on the spine, I emailed SRD about my first razor. Lynn responded saying that he did not use tape. I assumed (perhaps foolishly) that he didn't on my newer razor either.

Thanks again for helping a newb like me!

Ken

I am still relatively new to honing, and I am completely ignorant when it comes to the C12k stones, but do these stones have to be lapped prior to use? If so, this might be an issue as you said the edge seemed to get worse after trying to touch it up.

Bones, 'dang good question.

Ken, can you confirm you've lapped that brick? Unchamferred edges would be enough to destroy an edge.

(PS - Bones - messing w/ slurry some w/ the c12k I've gotten some of the feedback to return on the Stosser Wedge. It's sure nice to have it (mostly) back.)

Yes I've lapped it 3 or 4 times, each time drawing a grid with pen, then lapping on 320, 400, then 600 or 800. Grid is quickly removed (couple minutes). I chamfered the edges and corners, but I'm not sure I did enough. I just rounded them off, I didn't remove a lot of the stone. Maybe I'll re-lap just in case and take more off the edges. I didn't get a chance to do anything last night because I was too tired when my kids were finally asleep, but I should be able to give it another go tomorrow. I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks,

Ken

Just off the wall:

. . . Maybe Lynn uses something finer than a 12K finishing stone? Maybe a coticule, or a pasted strop? If so, you'll need to duplicate his tools, in order to match his edge. [You'd need to duplicate his skill, too -- but that's a different issue.<g>]

. . . Without _seeing_ your edge under magnification as you work on it, it's hard to you to know what you're actually doing. I suggest either a microscope (which i don't have) or a _good_ 10x jeweller's loupe (which I have, and find invaluable).

Charles
Charles

After 2 months of use, I'd probably have gone to the 4k/8k, then a 12k, but that's me. I think you get a much better end result...And if possible, I'd go beyond the 12k...I don't think it's your honing...

IME, The C12k is not always enough to bring back a dull edge, there's lot's of variables, How you shave, how you strop, your water, blade care, etc...

Forget the tape....Also, there are a lot of variences between Chinese 12ks...It's a very fine stone, and if your blade is dull, it might not be enough to bring it back, like I said. BTW, I hope your using a slurry..

If you send it off to Lynn, I'd almost guarantee that's what he'll use, a 4/8....
If your going to stick with this, you'll need hones like that anyway, Look up Lynn's honing pyramid, or minimal strokes, 10-20 on each...Then hit the 12k for a bit....

You need more than the 12k...

Loupes are great when your setting bevels. If your new to this, the microscope will only confuse you more....You should be able to see any nicks, chips, etc in the bevel with your magnifying glass...Good Luck...