Fast cutters

I just spent like 4 hours trying to put an edge on an old and dull W&B with my japs. I'm getting there but it's still a b**** of a job. Therefore, I'd like to know what I can use as a fast cutter in the medium to fine grit range, to put that initial edge on the blade before I start doing the pyramids. Since I have 2 more blades to get into a shave ready condition (barring any new purchases) and are both extremely dull, I'd like to know what cuts quickly. Any ideas gentlemen?

P.S. I heard that the coticules are fast cutters. Is that true or should I get something else?

The Japanese stones tend to be slow. I dont think the Belgian are tat fast either. A Norton is the fastest stone I know of.

Tony

Thanks Tony. Would a lower grit cut faster than the 4k?

Bigger grit does not always mean faster cutting. The grit size (individual grains) determines the smoothness, the spacing of the grains determines how fast they cut. Some stones are very densly packed and are slow cutting. Other have some sopace between the fine grains (like a Norton 4K) and cut faster as there is free space, or relief between the grains.

Tony

I guess I will have to eventually follow the herd. Next paycheque, I guess. Once again, thanks Tony. As for me, I'm checking out and flying off to lala-land. 'Night :)

You might try a few dozen passes on the 4k alone and see how that works. If you get teh sharp knife feeling from that then you can go on to the pyramid. Don't be tempted to go fast or add pressure to the blade either. That will just waste your time and you won't even learn anything useful except not to be hasty or add pressure.

X

I've used 1K grit wet/dry sandpaper, wetted and placed on top of my Norton 8K edge. For a dollar a sheet its a pretty economical hone.

A Norton 1K might be helpful, since you seem to enjoy honing so much.

There are a lot of hones that are knife hones that you could use as well.

My post got lost for some reason. I was thinking of getting one of those Spyderco ceramic hones. Would that do the trick?

The way I got this one close to being shave ready is by going circular w/ pressure on the bottom side of the 4k with the occasional pyramid just to see where I am. This was done for fast metal removal because the razor was really dull, so I needed to form the initial edge before going fine.

I also use 1000 grit sandpaper to restore edge fast. Just slap some with double stick tape onto some glass plate, and there you go, a DIY hone for a buck or so...

Nenad

For the time being go with the sandpaper suggestion. Use either 1000,1200,1500 grit wet/dry and lay it on a wet jap hone. Go easy on the pressure because the sandpaper will cut fast. Check your edge frequently by using the thumbnail test.
Be sure to wet the sandpaper, then you will not have to use any tape to hold the sandpaper down. It creates its own suction.

Hope this helps,:)

Although the Spyderco hones cost less they are not as effective as the Norton and a real pain to keep clean. There is also some special steps you have to perform before putting a razor to them.

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Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

My post got lost for some reason. I was thinking of getting one of those Spyderco ceramic hones. Would that do the trick?

The way I got this one close to being shave ready is by going circular w/ pressure on the bottom side of the 4k with the occasional pyramid just to see where I am. This was done for fast metal removal because the razor was really dull, so I needed to form the initial edge before going fine.

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What would those steps be?

Edit: I took your suggestions to heart (used the 1k sandpaper with plenty of water, on top of the rough oilstone since it has a larger surface than the japs) and then I did a whole bunch of pyramids with decreasing amounts of pressure. It's ready for a shave test that will be performed tomorrow.

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Originally Posted by randydance062449

Be sure to wet the sandpaper, then you will not have to use any tape to hold the sandpaper down. It creates its own suction.

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True, but it also curls after a while, in the direction of the paper grain. I don't like that.

Nenad

The edge feels ok and it shaves arm-hair but I can't get it to go anywhere near passing the hht. I'll give it another day of detailed honing, but if it doesn't work, I may have to set that blade aside and focus on more salvageable ones.

forget the 1000 grit you only use a 1000 hone if you have a super big chip in the razor...use a norton 4000/8000 on the 4000 side make small circular motions counter clockwise withblade facin towards you and circuar clockwise with blade facing away from you very lite pressure then do pyramid 3/3 1/5 1/5 then 10 strokes on codicule and then 60 laps on unpasted strop...wala

True...what has helped me is to keep the paper very wet. It is not a cure however.

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Originally Posted by superfly

True, but it also curls after a while, in the direction of the paper grain. I don't like that.

Nenad

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The Spyderco's have "high points" that will put chips in the edge of your razor. Ceramic hones are very hard. A person needs to lap this hone and also round over the edges. They will chip a razor very fast! I have had this happen to me.:rant:
I lapped them by rubbing one Spyderco against another. I do not know if sandpaper would be effective.

Hope this helps,:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

What would those steps be?

Edit: I took your suggestions to heart (used the 1k sandpaper with plenty of water, on top of the rough oilstone since it has a larger surface than the japs) and then I did a whole bunch of pyramids with decreasing amounts of pressure. It's ready for a shave test that will be performed tomorrow.

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Before you go back to the hones maybe you shoould give it a shave test?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

The edge feels ok and it shaves arm-hair but I can't get it to go anywhere near passing the hht. I'll give it another day of detailed honing, but if it doesn't work, I may have to set that blade aside and focus on more salvageable ones.

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Thanks Randy. That's a great idea. I'll actually give it a few passes on the coticule (it just arrived, thanks X :D) first though, since I'll be doing the same to my 2 shavers.

On that note, why did it come with some oil labeled "Oil 55/K for Original Arkansas Oilstone" (in German). It IS a coticule (yellow, relatively irregular shape, smooth surface, small blue veins, not noticeable to the touch). As far as I know, I'm either supposed to just pour water over it (doesn't require a soaking?) or work up a slurry with another stone.

I just poured water over it and honed my 2 shavers with it. 20 passes each but the stone was small (like 2x3.5") so it's ok. I'm impressed. The comfort level of the shave went way up. On a bad note, I made the lather so thin, it spilled over the scales, my fingers slipped and gave me a nasty nick on the jaw-line.