From 6000 to stropping?

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Originally Posted by time2shave

I need to buy some honing stones for a straight razor.
It seems there is a lot of difference in price between 6K and 8K grits. Is 8K really necessary?
Can I go 6K -> Clean strop ?
Or 6K -> Pasted strop -> Clean strop ?

I was thinking of buying....
...Woodworking Plans & Tools | Fine Woodworking Project & Supplies at Woodcraft....

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Since you are shopping at woodcraft check the
abrasive film. A package with 15micron,
5micron and 0.3micron is inexpensive and combined with
a flat as heck base will hone a razor.
The 0.3 is a bit harsh but with deliberate
stropping the result will be fine after a shave or
two.

The jumps are a bit large but abrasive films cut fast.

If you have a light hand a 6K hone followed by
canvas then leather will do for many.

I am of the opinion that pasted strops are not "sharpening" aids
they are finishing options. If the edge is not "sharp"
then a pasted strop is a left turn.

Well, I got me an antique. A rusty old IXL by Geo Wostenholm & Son's, Washington Works, Sheffield, England. The picture shows it after I removed lots of rust. Yes, I did make that nick on the end. Bummer. So, what do you think? Is it a fair razor? Would it shave some whiskers? Does it have good steel? I guess I will be investing in better hones now.

Wostenholm are known as a top cutlery maker.

Does it have good steel ? You can tell us when you hone past that rust on the edge :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by time2shave

Well, I got me an antique. A rusty old IXL by Geo Wostenholm & Son's, Washington Works, Sheffield, England. The picture shows it after I removed lots of rust. Yes, I did make that nick on the end. Bummer. So, what do you think? Is it a fair razor? Would it shave some whiskers? Does it have good steel? I guess I will be investing in better hones now.

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Do you want an honest assessment????

You bought a ton of trouble there,,,

As the Oz man pointed out already Corrosion on the edge after you sanded,, stop and check for clean steel before you get to far...
Rust worms, or a Swiss cheese edge is a deal killer for shaving

There is a frown or looks that way in the pic.

The toe is worn heavy and uneven.

4/8 blades are a bit of a challenge to hone for newbies "in general"

4/8 blades are a bit of a challenge to strop for newbies "in general"

Thumb notches can put a new twist on stropping for anyone not used too them..

You now have a dinged blade that you caused and have to fix...

It also has a cracked scale that is going to get in the way sooner rather than later...

Want the good news??? It is a Wosty, they are known to be a good quality brand...


Want the PC answer??? ... Wostenholms are great shavers, with a little work that one will be too !!!

Also... Is that a hairline crack radiating upwards from the 'ding' in the toe ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by time2shave

Well, I got me an antique. A rusty old IXL by Geo Wostenholm & Son's, Washington Works, Sheffield, England. The picture shows it after I removed lots of rust. Yes, I did make that nick on the end. Bummer. So, what do you think? Is it a fair razor? Would it shave some whiskers? Does it have good steel? I guess I will be investing in better hones now.

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Just send me Pm i will send you razor which you can use and start shaving with straight razor. As long as you will not hurt the edge it should last at least 3 months with proper honing.
Use that blade for learn how to hone.
gl

Actually, the edge is in good shape, as far as rust goes. Most of the rust was above the edge.

There are no cracks in the blade that I can see. Hopefully the ding is not going to spread. Is it a good idea to grind it out to relieve any stresses? It goes in about 1/16".

The blade measures about 9/16. I think it's been worn down from 5/8.

Where is the toe on it? I am not familiar with the terminology. It does have more wear in the middle than on either end of the blade. Actually the middle measures just under 9/16 and the ends measure just over 9/16. Both the edge AND the spine are bowed inward. Is it going to be a big problem? Was it caused by sharpening the middle more than the ends?
I tried putting a bevel on it today and got a nice even bevel on one side, but the other side is not getting much bevel toward the handle. Might be my technique, I don't know. I didn't spend very much time on the bevel, I was busy with other things. I used a cheap (aluminum oxide ?) stone that I lapped before using. I will have more time to work on it over the weekend.
I've got a shot from a different angle that shows the middle being more narrow.

I don't have much in this razor. I think it will be a good learning project. For me, learning how to bring a razor back from the dead is a lot of fun.

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Originally Posted by time2shave

There are no cracks in the blade that I can see. Hopefully the ding is not going to spread. Is it a good idea to grind it out to relieve any stresses? It goes in about 1/16". Yes it is

It does have more wear in the middle than on either end of the blade. Actually the middle measures just under 9/16 and the ends measure just over 9/16. Both the edge AND the spine are bowed inward. Is it going to be a big problem? Was it caused by sharpening the middle more than the ends?
I tried putting a bevel on it today and got a nice even bevel on one side, but the other side is not getting much bevel toward the handle. Might be my technique, I don't know. I didn't spend very much time on the bevel, I was busy with other things. I used a cheap (aluminum oxide ?) stone that I lapped before using. I will have more time to work on it over the weekend.
I've got a shot from a different angle that shows the middle being more narrow.

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The wear pattern is called a "frown" & sometimes also called a PITA :p
Here's some reading for you that may help:
Honing: Troubleshooting Guide - Straight Razor Place Wiki