Just wondering if adding a 2k hone will result in a sharper razor or better edge. What would be the pros and cons of getting a 2k?
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Just wondering if adding a 2k hone will result in a sharper razor or better edge. What would be the pros and cons of getting a 2k?
Smaller jumps means less work per hone. So if you use a 2k, you'll have a bit less work to do on the 4k. But whether or not that will actually save you any time depends. One more hone means one more to lap, one more to prep, one more to put away, etc etc.
Making smaller jumps does not mean a better final edge, unless you are not doing the work on the 4k that needs to be done. Of course, there is such a thing as a jump that is too big, but 1k to 4k seems fine based on the feedback from everyone who does it.
The jump from 1k to 8k and from 2k to 8k are almost equal.Quote:
Originally Posted by brothers
Adding a 5k, 4k or a 3k in the middle might be a better choice.
The reason for a progression of stones is that the finer
hones take a long time to remove the same steel that
a coarser hone removes quickly. It is true that the fast
modern man made hones can change the rules.
In the end your shave tests will tell.
My opinion is that most 1K hones are just not
as even and smooth as the finer 3k,4k,5k hones
that will present the finer 8k hone with a better surface
to finish. So even if you are willing to give it 1000 strokes
it makes sense to split the grits.
Again it is your face that will tell.
I should also note that below 1K comparing hones
from different vendors only by the numbers is
difficult. In the 1K number range they all cut fast enough
that the price and smoothness are more important.
I should double check the obvious. What brand
is your 1K and what brand is your 8k hone. A 1200 hone
is equiv to a 3000 Japanese hone by some
measures.
I recommend a 2K. It comforts me to know the bevel is set,set, set.
I start with a DMT 1200. My TPT is calibrated to a Norton 1K, however, so I always follow the DMT with the Norton. Good TPT, shaving arm hair, I got my bevel.
But then I go to a Nani 2K. Smooth TPT, easily shaves arm hair, and I KNOW the bevel is set, set, set.
Using Shapton Pros for bevel shaping and most times start with 2k first and only start on the 1k when needed. The 2k is a very good feeling hone and in my mind, less hone wear on the razor. Is it something I would have to use before a middle hone? Nope.
Glen did a video on one stone honing. It makes me question if the progression up is even necessary. Set the bevel on 1k, the jump right to 8k.
If you do everything right only the final hone matters. Anything else is just means to get to the end more efficiently.
But if you don't do it right you'll see the effects of the coarse hones.
And of course without specifying the exact 1k, 2k and 4k hones you're talking about, anything that can be said is useless from practical point of view.
Glen also did two other Vids that show a full Shapton run of 1-2-4-6-8-16-30 and a Naniwa run of 1-3-5-8-10-12
So what is the right way??? hehehehe
You have to understand that the magic is hidden in the hands, not in the Hones first off, also the consistency of these honing systems...
The one stone hone system hits at around 70-75%
The Shapton full run, and the Naniwa full run, hit at over 99%
These are just different ways of attaining the same goals, a sharp smooth edge.... :)
I recently added a 2k because I felt I was spending too much time on the 4k. There hasnt been a dramatic difference, but I'm satisfied with it there. My 1k is a naniwa, so I got a 2k shapton to go with the rest of the progression. I was also thinking that 1k to 2k to 4k would be more in keeping with the idea of doubling the grits.
I have had problems integrating it. I know what tests I want passed on the 1k, 4k and 8k, but I have no tests for the 2k, so I just give it x number of laps, depending on the razor. Also, I actually overhoned a razor or two b/c of it.
I'm pretty sure I've read there are benefits to using a single progression of the same type of stones with really small jumps, but I cant vouch for this.
I was wondering when someone would bring up the "double the grits"... shall we call it a theory? Where does that come from, anyway? My understanding, and I could be wrong, is that it came from the US distributor of Shaptons. Does anyone know any different, with regards to its orgin?Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete_S
Regardless of where it comes from, we have very clear evidence that systems that do not double grits (Norton 1k, 4k, 8k or Naniwa 1k, 3k, 5k, 8k, 12k with the 3 and 5 being either/or/both) yield extremely high success rates and neither one doubles the grit at each step.