I'm sure there is more than one way, but I'd be happy to show you how I do it. It was explained to me as honing off the side of the hone, and I think that is a great way to put it.
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I'm sure there is more than one way, but I'd be happy to show you how I do it. It was explained to me as honing off the side of the hone, and I think that is a great way to put it.
Holli -
do you mean standing your hone on it's side, or honing off the chamfered edge?
I've done the "chamfered edge" very carefully and it seemed to work.
I can help you with that...
Take a marker and lightly draw a line 1 or 1 1/2 inches from the edge of your hone along the full length of your honing surface. Now imagine that you have cut your hone down that line and hone only on your newly, and cheaply, acquired narrow hone.
You don't need a narrow hone. You just need to learn to hone AS IF you were honing on a narrow hone.
By the way, I figured this out only AFTER buying a full set of narrow Norton hones!
I tried the hammer trick on a $2 Jones razor from eBay. Didn't seem to want to take the warp out (which leads me to believe that I didn't cause it while clamping it to my work table in the first place). However, I may not have hammered correctly or in the right spot. Mine was warped (or bent) on the tang or at the tang/blade transition, so I clamped it in the vice and put a jack handle over the tang and straightened it :D
I would be happy to have 1/2", but the blade was warped so badly, when I was on concave side I had less then 1/16" of contact area. Was working almost on the edge of the hone.
I was even thinking to make the edge of the hone wider. :hmmm:
It is easier than cut the hone.