Thread: The Razor from Hell.

No, what you see above the bevel is the steel that has been masked during the etching, so the pattern contrast is much less than on the etched part, though you can still see it.

If you take a closer look you'll see that the bevel looks wide because, unlike many of the custom makers, TI had the good sense to coat the edge with some sort of protectant so that the etch wouldn't go into the bevel. I"ve also got one and the damascus etching doesn't go all the way to the edge on purpose. I've had some by other makers that required honing clean through the etched area and it was a job.

Edit; while I was busy typing , and finding out if I spelled 'protectant' correctly ..... gugi beat me to the punch ..... what he said +1

Ahhhhhh - learn something new every day...

Ok, so it's etched, not what I recognise as "Damascus Steel" (right or wrong).

Originally Posted by MickRussell

Ok, so it's etched, not what I recognise as "Damascus Steel" (right or wrong).

Forge welded or "damascus" steel is dipped in an acid to 'etch' or highlight the different steels & show a pattern from the welding.

@ tbs. Sometimes when a blade is close to where I want it I alternate between the final polisher & diamond sprays. If I see a law of diminishing returns at work I may drop back in grit but hard/tough steels can take a while at polishing stage as at any stage.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Forge welded or "damascus" steel is dipped in an acid to 'etch' or highlight the different steels & show a pattern from the welding.

Thanks. For a minute there I thought the "etched" part meant the pattern was artificial.

You should see my tamahagane razor - it develops the pattern contrast during honing - same idea different components oxidize at different rate. That's also the only razor that the swarf was turning orange as I honed, really weird...

From the picture you posted I see three issues. The bevel is into the stabilizer, there is a smile to the edge and you have at least two bevels. The bevel into the stabilizer will change the metal removal rate at the heal so I would round out the heal until the stabilizer is not in the bevel. It looks like you are using tape so I would go with at least two layers. The first layer to be half the width and tape to run from the toe on the spine and onto the shank as equal in length on both sides of the blade as possible. The second layer of tape to be full width over the first and not as far onto the shank as the first piece. Replace the top layer of tape when gets worn being sure the first layer doesn't move. This will ensure the back of the blade is at the same place on the hone between tape changes. Be sure to use the same angle laying your razor on the hone for all strokes be it straight across the hone or with the toe slightly angled, heal leading. Tip the tow up slightly and hone off the edge of the hone until you pass the center of the blade and then roll the blade during your stroke to raise the heal and get the toe in the hone. A slight angle with the heal leading will help keep the stabilizer off the hone. With a smiling blade more strokes will be needed as the bevel has less time on the hone during each stroke. I would use hones and not strops due to the multiple bevels. The hones will refine the bevel, the pasted strops will refine the burrs caused during honing. Damascus blades are made with at least two different types of metal. A Google search will return some articles that describe the metals used. I found some articles on knives that get into the metals used but I don't have the time to do the search again. The metals are chosen for their etching characteristics and the odds of one being harder than the other is very high. As Holli mentioned, a slurry will enhance the metal removal rate but may also effect the sharpness. If you have the time, patients and experience with a coti that may work but I have used slurry on Notons and Naniwa hones created with the next finer hone on hand. I think that using the two width tapes, the edge of the hone with a slight roll, a hard hone a bunch of time and patients you will have success. Another thing to look at is the flatness of the area that would wear during honing near the spine. If this is not flat your angle (straight across the hone or heal leading) will effect the bevel angle and multiple bevels may result from this. If you want to chat by phone drop me a PM and I'll send you my number. Good luck.

If that razor were mine, I think I would be soley tempted to send the razor away for a total regrind, I may be wrong but it looks very thick ? And if that's damascus it will be problematic, I would go for a more hollow ground blade than the one you have already.

Jamie

Originally Posted by thebigspendur

If anyone has any words of wisdom here I'm all ears.

The journey of a thousand strokes begins with one pass on the hone

It's not a Chronik, you can handle it

PS after you get it honed and think to yourself, "wow I can't believe I finally reconquered this razor" you can remember my words of wisdom and I won't have to say I toad you so