I've only been at this for 4 months, but I think I can offer some basic answers.
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Originally Posted by
UglyShirts
#1) Stropping. There is a wealth of information on the how-to, so I feel like I've got a pretty good grasp. But the one thing I don't seem to see addressed anywhere is the "when" and/or "how often." Most beginner guides seem to agree that a brand-new, well-honed razor should not need to be stropped for some time after initial purchase. How will I know when it needs it? Is it a time period, or a rough ballpark number of shaves? I mean, I guess "when it stops working well" is probably a good indicator, but I'd rather it not get to that point. I want to take care of my equipment.
A razor should be stropped before every shave. I myself go 30 on the canvas, 60 on the leather. Most people also strop just after the shave to remove any micro gunk on the edge of the razor. I do 15 on the canvas, 15 on the leather.
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Plus, I'm still not sure of the definitive answer regarding the yellow paste vs. hand-oil argument, wood vs. leather, strop prior to shave vs. afterward, and what the hell the linen side is really used for, exactly. If it helps, my strop is of the medium-length swiveling leather/linen variety, but I'm willing to branch out a bit if need be.
Paste is a light abrasive to keen up the edge a little when stropping isn't quite cutting it. Think of it as a extremely light polishing. The stropping itself is in actuality burnishing the edge to smooth it out, making it fit to put to face.
More info on stropping
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#2) Shaving with VS. against the grain. During the years I used cartridges, in order to get anything even CLOSE to the shave I was looking for, I more or less had to go over most areas twice - First with, then against the grain. I guess my face got used to this, because it's never produced any irritation. And when I say none, I don't mean "not much," or "very little"... I mean none. I'm lucky, there. Because I always pressed way too hard to compensate for blades hiding behind wires, encumbered by lubricant strips, and set so deep into plastic that they never came close to ever touching my actual skin. Ugh.
So, I've begun repeating this practice with the straight, and so far, the results are the same: I'm using a much lighter touch, obviously...But the second-pass shave is a lot closer, and there's no irritation to speak of. I guess I'm just wondering what the school of thought is on this. Is it normal, or am I an unusual case? Am I okay to keep this up, or should I be "re-training" my skin somehow, now that I'm doing things a lot more properly?
Multiple passes will always give you a better result, so that it totally normal. See here for more info on different passes.
Shaving passes - Straight Razor Place Wiki
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#3) Soap. In one of the only breaks with tradition, I did NOT choose to go the mug-brush-and-soap route for my conditioner/lubricant. Reason being, my wife used to work for the cosmetics company Lush years ago, and I fell in love with their shaving lotion, "Razorantium." It's full of facial conditioners, emollients and natural ingredients; and in terms of stubble-softening, face-feel and closeness, it's the only shave lotion I ever found to be worth a damn when using cartridges. At least, for me. I know it's not for everyone (and looking around, I've even seen a thread or two here about it, with varying opinions) but so far, it's a combination that really seems to be working.
Honestly, though...what am I depriving myself of by forgoing the brush and mug, besides an experience? Has anyone used both, and formulated an opinion? I know so much is down to personal preference, and "what works for me," but do I really NEED to still buy the badger brush, mug and soap if the current combo seems to be working? Dumb question, probably, but I still wonder what I might be missing out on.
Most feel that lathering with a brush is one of the key factors in getting a good shave. Even for people who don't use a straight razor have found that switching from hand applied foam to brush applied lather makes a significant difference in quality of shave. You don't need to spend an arm an a leg either. I got a tweezerman badger brush for 15 bucks. That said, if you feel you are getting quality shaves as is, don't sweat not using a brush. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, right? I'd say its worth trying, but you are under no obligation to use a brush.
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#4) Resting. I'm discovering that I'm pretty lucky, in that when using the straight, I really only need to shave every 3-4 days. By nightfall on the 4th day, I'm usually looking at a level of stubble equal to what I used to see 24 hrs. after a cartridge shave, especially between chin and neck. Maybe it's that I'm getting that much closer, or maybe it's that the lotion softens that well...But either way, I'm discovering that while I may get stubble that's as THICK as always, it doesn't seem to need removal as often. I'm okay with this, as you can well imagine.
However, I've seen a lot of conflicting reports as far as how often a razor should "rest" between shaves in order to not dull or damage from over-use. Some sources say 24-48 hours, others say as much as a week. Obviously, I want to do this right, and take care of my gear, so I guess I'm wondering about others' experiences. I'm sure it also has a lot to do with the environment the razor is kept in, how often it's stropped, etc. If it helps, I have shaved a total of three times to date, and I keep the razor in a dry location after wiping it down post-use. I also have no idea if I should be oiling anything, or if just keeping the blade and handle dry inside and out is sufficient to preserve the steel and avoid rust.
I don't think a razor needs to rest at all. Barbers offered quality shaves to multiple people through out the day without having a huge stock so that their razors could rest. As for maintanance, I strop it on a towel when I'm done to remove most of the water, then I do my 15/15 on my linen/leather. Then I store it in the bedroom, away from the moisture ridden bathroom. Some people oil their razors to keep water marks from developing, but that is really a cosmetic thing. As long as you keep your edge dry, the razor will keep shaving fine.
People also periodically use a pasted strop to touch up the edge as mentioned before, and a barber's hone when the pasted strop isn't cutting it. Unless you really damage the edge by hitting it on the faucet, or your girlfriend dropping it, it shouldn't need to have serious honing done.
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I apologize in advance for all of this, but I really did search the forums, and was unable to really find much in the way of answers to these questions. It's possible that I may have been doing it wrong or looking in the wrong places being as I'm pretty green to this whole world, so I hope I'm not breaching any etiquette, here. I just really want to do this right, so I figured I'd rely on the wisdom of those who came before me as I embark on my rewarding little voyage of self-discovery.
In any case, thanks. :)
Hey, we guys here love straight razor shaving, and love talking about it, so no need to apologize! Ask all you want, and you will be amazed at the depth of knowledge some of these guys have here.
Anyway, it sounds like you are getting good shaves, and really that is what it is all about.