Thread: Cleaning the blade

So, I think this happened when I closed the blade when it was slightly wet...looks to be some sort of runoff/smudge from the scales itself...I KNOW this can be cleaned easily enough, any suggestions?

If warm water, soap, and a washcloth won't clean it, then a metal polish like Flitz, Maas, or Mother's Mag Polish should clean it up.
Try not to run your finger down the edge while cleaning.

Pretty much anything that will clean that has a very high likelihood of killing your edge. I like 0000steelwool and WD-40 and then with polish. You might try just the polish to start and step it up until you get what you want and then work it back.

Originally Posted by RezDog

Pretty much anything that will clean that has a very high likelihood of killing your edge. I like 0000steelwool and WD-40 and then with polish. You might try just the polish to start and step it up until you get what you want and then work it back.

I was afraid of that...I tried a bit of steel wool CAREFULLY, but i think that's the issue is if i don't wanna kill the edge, just cleaning the parts that aren't on the edge (the edge parts are gonna wear away with a rehone at some point anyway)..it's REALLY hard and I can't be as forceful as I'd normally be when I'm cleaning stuff like this. I'll try WD and steelwool. I have a can of NevrDull i tried a bit of...

When you say "ruin the edge" how badly would it be ruined? Bunch of laps on a barber hone and a finisher would bring it back up u think? (I suppose it depends on what I did).

It is totally going to depend on how careful you are. Honestly, if you kill the edge for safety, clean it up and then hit the hones you will not likely have to make many laps on a 1K or 3K hone to get the apex back. What takes a lot of effort is restoration honing where you are building an apex on a flat edge.

For future reference most of us leave the blade open overnight or all day. Any moisture in the scales drys so that won’t happen

Originally Posted by tcrideshd

For future reference most of us leave the blade open overnight or all day. Any moisture in the scales drys so that won’t happen

Yea when I was starting out, someone told me to do this and I"ve been doing it ever since (oh, and strop on canvas, the friction helps dry it out more)...I think this one time I closed it accidentally when I had to put the razor away mid shave to answer a call or smthg .

When I’m done shaving my post shave clean up is as follows: wipe blade with towel, close blade, rinse out brush, fan dry on hand, pack gear, and return to truck. Once in the truck I full strop, both linen and leather. Here’s the real secret: after stropping I apply mineral oil (baby oil) to the blade and return to leather roll up. Out of 42 razors I’ve only had spotting or staining issues with one blade. Still don’t know why, but I’m satisfied with my procedure to keep doing it.

As a truck driver on the road most nights, shaving in the truck stops, my processes must work every time. I venture if you oil your blade after every use you’ll minimize your risk of rusting, spotting, staining.

Renaissance wax has worked well for me to help prevent rust. I also dry with TP before stropping and store with the blade mostly open overnight before storing.(I''m also careful to keep everything dry as possible while shaving especially the scales and pivot.) Looks like some metal polish should clean up those stains.

As previously stated, metal polish should work.

I would say after any kind off abrasive make sure you give the blade a good coat of oil because it will then be susceptible to rust and staining..