Thread: Obie's Workshop: Lord Help Us!

Gentlemen,

I have never had a hobby that required working with my hands. I don't think I have ever had a hobby, period, except for reading and walking. So this is all new to me: I plan to learn how to refurbish, rescale and hone my flea market straight razors.

No, I will not touch my four Thiers-Issards, two Dovos, a Boker and a Wacker in my small but functional razor collection. My shave guru Lynn is in charge of those.

This razor refurbishing venture is a major feat for someone who has never worked with his hands. I want to do it as a hobby, as well as therapy. In subsequent posts, if you will indulge me, I will keep you apprised of my progress. Also, I will rely on your expertise to point me in the right direction. I know I will turn Lynn's hair gray with my questions, bless his heart.

Priding myself for a shark's tenacity and a Spartan's discipline, I will proceed a step at a time without the fear of ever giving up, unless my banged up hands force me to do so. My work may not be Noble Prize material, but it will be my best effort. Do the best you can, is what I say.

Last week I visited my first flea market with the sole purpose of picking up what straight razors I could find. By day's end, after also visiting an antique store, I came away with 12 straight razors and two Gillette Super Speed double edge razors, all in various stages of disrepair.

I sent one of the straight razors to our SRP colleague DPflaumer, who volunteered to rescale it for practice. Before touching the straights, I refurbished the two Gillette DE's that looked as if they had been dug up from a swamp. They were a mess, although I knew they worked.

First I boiled them in water and vinegar; then washed them with soapy water; bathed them in alcohol; and finally polished them with Moss compound.

Gentlemen, I am not ashamed to take a bow to myself for my handiwork. Thank you for the applause. I have already sold one of the DE's and plan to sell the other to anyone interested.

After some preliminary research, I plan to begin work on the straight razors. First, though, I need some equipment to clean and polish and hone. I will appreciate your suggestions. I don't intend to open a honing and refurbishing service; rather, this is for my own enjoyment.

Thanks for bearing with me. If I bore you to death with my pilgrim's straight razor refurbishing adventure, my deepest apologies.

Regards,

Obie

Quick stop by a flea market and an antique store... la dee da...
12 razors in one day?!

I hate you, sir.

But do keep us posted.

Obie,

Congratulations on taking on a new hobby! I haven't done as much as some here, for sure, but here's my input anyway These items are in no particular order

1) roll of electrical tape - Place a piece over the pins on the scales and using a small flat file, you can file the top off the pin, making it easier to push the pin out. The tape saves the scale from any file damage. If needed, change the tape as you file. Can also be used to tape the spine during honing if you so choose.

2) Flat file - used to file down the pin heads for removal

3) Small punch (maybe 1/16") - not necessary (I don't have one yet) but it would help for punching out the old pins.

4) Jewelers Hammer (aka small ball peen hammer) - Used with the punch for knocking out pins, as well as for peening new pins. Make sure you sand the ball end so it is very smooth or your new pins will be imprinted with the marks and not be smooth. I am not sure what size other ppl use, but I think a 4oz. hammer would be fine.

5) 1/16" brass rod - used for making new brass pins. Found mine at a miniature train store, but any big hobby store should have them.

6) Copper tubing - used in the pivot of the blade if the blade moves around on the pin. I found that you may have to take a metal drill bit and even out the pivot hole in the blade to make the tubing fit. Size would depend on the pivot hole, but for the razors I've worked on so far, 3/32" OD works perfectly. The ID is just right to accept the 1/16" rod, forming a great pivot. Can also be found at well stocked hobby stores, my tubing was made by K&S Engineering out of Chicago, IL.

7) Low grit wet/dry sandpaper - Don't buy the cheap no-name stuff, invest in 3M, or Norton if you can find it. 220 is good for taking off light rust and staining, but for taking out deeper pitting, you will need to go lower.

8) Face masks - When you are sanding your blades, you should wear something to keep from inhaling the material you are removing from the blade. Some people say use a respirator, but I use the masks you can find in the paint department of Walmart or similar stores.

9) If you wear glasses, wear em, or get a pair of safety glasses. Can never be too careful.

10) As far as cleaning and polishing the blade once you've got most of the worst stuff off, there is a good thread HERE about using a brass tumbler, normally used for cleaning ammunition casings, to clean up and polish straight blades. You will see that it is a VERY good method, with much experimentation to make it better, and IMO, a more appealing approach to hand sanding in the 400-2000+ range. After a while, your fingers will get calloused with hand sanding

11) Rubber Gloves - I use Nitrile Gloves, available at Lowe's, Home Depot, Walmart, etc. To me, they are better than latex gloves, and not as easy to tear. I use them a lot. They are a good investment, unless you like having black fingers

12) magnetic sanding block - There are several threads on the forum and in the Wiki IIRC. If you make one of these, I would suggest picking up a demagnetizer, since you don't want your blades magnetized during honing. The demagnetizers have been found at Harbor Freight stores, and on Amazon.com, but you might call Sears as well, I believe I saw that they sell them as well. They have them for demagnetizing tools

*EDIT*
13) Small bench vice - Good for holding the rod to make the first peened end as well as (with a shallow hold drilled into the "anvil" part) keeping the first side from getting flattened while you peen the other side. (See Wiki on re-pinning a razor for details)
*/EDIT*

This is just a partial list, but should serve you well in the beginning, I know others will point out things I may have forgotten Good luck and keep us updated on your progress!

-Rob

I would just like to point out that I have 1/16 brass rod. And judging from the reference to a 1/16 punch and 3/32 tubing, I would say avatar1999 (aka Rob), also uses 1/16.

A small distinction, but an important one none the less.

I'm looking forward to working on this beautiful razor Obie. It is one lovely flea market find.

Drew

Originally Posted by DPflaumer

I would just like to point out that I have 1/16 brass rod. And judging from the reference to a 1/16 punch and 3/32 tubing, I would say avatar1999 (aka Rob), also uses 1/16.

A small distinction, but an important one none the less.

I'm looking forward to working on this beautiful razor Obie. It is one lovely flea market find.

Drew

haha, you're right, my bad, editing for correct size

Gentlemen,

Rob, Drew and Adam, thank you for your encouragement. Rob, thank you for the comprehensive hints. And, Drew, thank you also for the additional information.

Regards,

Hi Obie,

You also mentioned honing these razors as well, in which case I can heartily recommend the Shapton ceramic on glass stones. I have the 1k, 4k, 8k and 16k stones that I purchased from SRD and they are excellent.

I have been able to put an edge that would cleave atoms on the one razor I restored (so far!). I've been looking on eBay for the next few purchases...!

I have heard very good things about the Naniwa superstones as well, so they also would be a good bet.

Good luck and let us know how you get on!

Best,

Stuart

If you plan to hone them as well, it's a useful investment to buy yourself a cheap loupe or microscope so you can inspect the edge in detail.