Thread: Approx age of this ebay razor?

Hi all,

I picked up this razor on ebay (result of a few to many beers whilst surfing the net I liked the shape of it, and thought it looks in reasonable condition for a restore project.








I have an inkling that it dates from approx 1820-1830 based on the shape. It doesn't seem to have any makers mark, but does state "Real Silver Steel" on the tang.

Am I in the ballpark, or have I picked up a lemon? The seller stated the handles were some sort of celluloid, but look more like horn in the photo's.

Any help greatly appreciated,

J

I'm not able to give an exact date range... but It's an old razor for sure. The smaller stubby tang leads me to say this. looka here

If I remember correctly, many sheffield makers had razors that they called "old english" or something similar. Many also have the "silver steel" stampings.

Also, it looks like it will be a fine shaver once honed up... lots of steel, nothing readily apparent that could be an indication of edge problems... looks cool to me.

I would suspect that the 1820-30 range would be correct, not quite a stubby tail and not quite a full monkey's tail either, scales look to be horn or bone, most likely horn.

I agree with Nun - probably 20's-30's. That is a very nice razor you scored!

One note of caution - I have found that razors on which the "spine wear" isn't actually up on the spine which are ALSO so heavily ground can be challenging to hone. If you end up using tape, you'll probably find that it is the very bottom of the tape that touches the hone. I know of two ways to address this - use something to "build up" the spine OR be very very very careful to always put the tape on exactly the same every time you replace it.

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

I agree with Nun - probably 20's-30's. That is a very nice razor you scored!

One note of caution - I have found that razors on which the "spine wear" isn't actually up on the spine which are ALSO so heavily ground can be challenging to hone. If you end up using tape, you'll probably find that it is the very bottom of the tape that touches the hone. I know of two ways to address this - use something to "build up" the spine OR be very very very careful to always put the tape on exactly the same every time you replace it.

I would start with 4 layers of tape and add more if needed, as Dylan said it is imperative that you get the tape the same every time you replace it and get it even on both sides of a wedge or you will throw the bevel geometry off in a real bad way!

On using tape, I would rather not if I didn't have to. In a situation where I do use tape and the bottom of the tape is where it is getting worn away I cut the tape in half length wise and will put several layers on the spine long enough to cover some of the shank. The last layer I put on will be full width. Sometimes I use two full width layers. With the full width tape I cut the tape where the blade meets the shank. Then when the tape needs to be replaced I just replace the top layer. This way the bevel never changes as the multiple pieces of half width tape are what is really setting the angle and they are not being replaced.

Good luck.